Discovery 2 stuck in inertia mode

My friends just bought a discovery 2 td5 it come with new keys but not genuine cheap ones fobs dont work to open the doors key in drivers door only it was working fine until he parked it went out next day and tryed to turn it over soon as he turnt key hazards where flashing and wont even turn over we tryed inertia switch put my working one on his still no difference tryed unlocking locking doors 3 times removing battery still newt fuel pump dosnt even start to prime just hazards flashing he then went out later on in the day and it fired straight up was fine for days and now it's done it again will not start tryed everything immobiliser light flashing some times aswell some times dosnt flash atall hes contacted the ppl he got it off and they said it's never done it but they sounded very sketchy would you say bcu problem? we are going to try get his eka code tomorow try get it in eka mode any other ideas cheers

Sure your battery connections are tight?

Could it be the receiver in the roof, near the rear sunroof winder, that receives the signal from the fob? Could it be getting damp?

Firstly the owners hand book needs reading.

If the red LED is flashing then it indicates the vehicles security system is set including the immobiliser function that stops the engine from cranking, among other things, when the LED is not illuminated indicates the engine has been remobilised and should start.

Having a non functioning fob isn’t helping as not only does it unlock/lock the doors but it also need to be present to remobilise the engine, i assume that the security system software is still as factory fitted and hasn’t been altered.
Inertia switch is a fuel cut-off therefore won’t affect cranking the engine.

So start with a functional fob by installing it with a new battery, and that the fobs LED illuminates when a button is pressed and the vehicle is receiving the signal.

The hazards flashing when the door is opened is an indication that the system is now in an alarm condition, the alarm sounder should also sound, as it’s not indicates to me something is wrong, possibly it has been disconnected because of the existing fault.

LR dealer will only give u the access code that the vehicle left the factor with, i believe people do sometimes change it, anyway it’s just a “get you home“ code not an override for a faulty security system as i have to re-enter it again every time u unlock the vehicle.

Your mate might need to look carefully at his fob and his flashing red light centre bottom of dash. If it is flashing when he tries to turn the key and continues to flash this means he still has not remobilised it, which he should be able to do from the fob, it is possible the key he puts in the ignition doesn't have the gubbins inside it to tell the car to start. I have one key like that and it only starts the car if I do it quick once I have opened it with the fob, if I leave it too long I have to push the fob unlock button before the key can start the car.
The other key has the gubbins inside it and will start the car but the buttons to lock and unlock the car are not good as the rubber came off and you need a tiny fingernail or summat to action the microswitches.
So if he has more than one key it might simply be that he needs to try all the keys until he finds the one that has the gubbins inside it.
Such a shame that peeps muck about with it instead of doing the job propa! (Sez he who has yet to sort all this into one working key! but at least I have two working sets so if one gets lost....... no probs!)

Right my fault it does crank but dosnt start fuel pump dosnt come on 2nd turn of the key hazards just come on horn dosnt work central locking inside dosnt work once the hazards start flashing they do before hand if you take terminals off and reapply flashing stops immobiliser light is flashing normally but soon as you turn key in door or open door immobiliser light stops flashing and goes out and dosnt come back on till you reset battery turn key to 2nd position and same again hazards on no fuel pump flashing just been and cleaned all the earths ecu plug had oil in it cleaned all that out and dryed it checked all fuses and bcu terminals for corrosion even putting key in drivers door and turning for 5 seconds to get into eka mode does nothing no beep of the horn or ewt when you do turn to 2nd position aswell as hazards the doors make like a unlock sound for a split second then hazards start again

Tryed my inertia switch on it and bypassing wire still Newt

Alarm speaker and horn speaker all still attached nothing comes out of them though

It cant be good if it wont even let him get into eka mode as I thought that's overriding everything

You should use some interpunction in your posts to be clearer cos i hardly understand them. First of all as long as it cranks there's no need for EKA code cos when it's fully immobilised it would not crank and the red LED should be on. The symptom with flashing hazards and no feed to the pump shows that there's a problem on the main relay's path and as you ruled out the inertia switch check fuse F13 engine bay and swap relays R9 with R8 see if it helps. If no joy you need to make measurements on the main relay's coil circuit based on the diagrams if yu know how to read them... if you don't have basic skills with electronics i can't help more.

Craigevo92 said:

Right my fault it does crank but dosnt start fuel pump dosnt come on 2nd turn of the key hazards just come on horn dosnt work central locking inside dosnt work once the hazards start flashing they do before hand if you take terminals off and reapply flashing stops immobiliser light is flashing normally but soon as you turn key in door or open door immobiliser light stops flashing and goes out and dosnt come back on till you reset battery turn key to 2nd position and same again hazards on no fuel pump flashing just been and cleaned all the earths ecu plug had oil in it cleaned all that out and dryed it checked all fuses and bcu terminals for corrosion even putting key in drivers door and turning for 5 seconds to get into eka mode does nothing no beep of the horn or ewt when you do turn to 2nd position aswell as hazards the doors make like a unlock sound for a split second then hazards start again

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OK, again hazards flashing is an alarm condition therefore the pump is isolated if so, so stop setting the alarm off, ie ONLY unlock doors with the fob, u can lock with the key or fob that’s okay.
I don’t understand how u can reset a battery or your reference to fuel pump flashing or “ take terminals off” is that the vehicles battery terminals.

Still stuck in inertia mode tryed every think but soon as you turn key to position 2 doors unlock hazards go off and fuel pump is dead will not reset am I right to say 1 wire (green white) off the inertia switch goes to the engine fuse box and then other (brown black) goes to bcu ??what happens then is there a signal sent through another wire to ecu ? As I think it's not getting a signal to say inertia switch as been reset it just thinks it has been in an accident soon as you turn key ?

Did you read post 10 ?

sierrafery said:

Did you read post 10 ?

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Hi mate thanks for your reply yes I I tryed putting all my working relays onto his still no joy i tested volts at the main relay and fuel relay and they all go to 12v when I turn key I wouldnt no where to start with measuring coil circuits but I wouldnt mind giving it ago if I could get hold of the diagrams we also believe the ecu is not the one to his disco as it says auto v8 on the ecu and his is a manuel td5 but it did work perfectly fine when he bought it

Download the proper docs from here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/47hbz40an5he5j2/AACH509eV_o7QhM5PoX6eFVLa ,, 00MY means all pre-facelifts and 03MY all facelifts, follow the diagram corroborated with the electrical library - connector views but if the main relay closes on ignition the problem is more likely with the BCU or IDM(interior fusebox) which used to suffer from water ingress/corrosion

sierrafery said:

Download the proper docs from here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/47hbz40an5he5j2/AACH509eV_o7QhM5PoX6eFVLa ,, 00MY means all pre-facelifts and 03MY all facelifts, follow the diagram corroborated with the electrical library - connector views but if the main relay closes on ignition the problem is more likely with the BCU or IDM(interior fusebox) which used to suffer from water ingress/corrosion

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I'm going to have a look with the diagrams tomorrow we have also just found out that his ecu is a msb ecu when his is a 15p engine so shouldn't it be nnn ? He had trouble after finding out the previous owners removed the original storm tuned remapped ecu and replaced it with the msb one before they sold it to him they now wont answer his calls could this ecu be a cause of the problem aswell thanks

As long as it ran before i doubt that the ECM is the problem, that would only not let it run as an Eu3 one should cos it has Eu2 fuel map but it has nothing to do with flashing hazards and central locking

Well quick update bit of a strange one he decided to get some one to come with a plug and play ecu plugged it in and inertia was still activated and fuel pump dead so whe thought best option is to buy bcu with a key and ignition barrel fitted new bcu and inertia mode did not activate and fuel pump come back to life car turnt over but did not start so we put it it down to it being air locked and low battery and we would start again in morning he took the battery out to charge overnight we went back first thing in the morning turnt key and it's back in inertia mode doors unlock fuel pump is non existent and car will not start surely must be a wiring problem now ??

Craigevo92 said:

whe thought best option is to buy bcu with a key and ignition barrel fitted new bcu

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Did you make the ECM learn the security code ? you can't just fit a BCU without programming otherwise the ECM will work once then enter in ''secure" status

sierrafery said:

Did you make the ECM learn the security code ? you can't just fit a BCU without programming otherwise the ECM will work once then enter in ''secure" status

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Thanks for your reply no we did not the man we bought the ecu off said he had a bcu and barrel for sale with the key I said to him can you just plug that in and he said yes when we first fitted the new bcu it did work the fuel pump primed and no hazards or doors unlocking then we did have a problem with the immobiliser but after locking car with the fob and unlocking immobiliser went off when key was put in and car turnt over but now its back in inertia mode