Egr removal freelander 2

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Mac-1990

Mac-1990

Member
Posts
72
Location
West Yorkshire
I'm wanting to remove the egr which is at the rear of the engine on my freelander 2 2.2 diesel. I wanna get it off and give it a good clean.

So I wanted to know if there is a guide to do so or if someone who had done it can give me a break down if at all possible?

Thanks

Mac
 
their is a piece on removal in landrover monthly dec 2017
. apparently they say takes around six hours so I have never tried .hope this might help.
 
Busy removing egr cooler for replacement with new unit. Egr & cooler come off as a unit.
After an oil change, I noticed I had over filled after running the engine. Corrected oil level whereafter I experienced white smoke from exhaust, exhaust bubbling in expansion tank, aircon heater runs cold, hissing noise from exhaust and coolant disappearing with no external sign of a leak. Car starts and runs fine, did not run the engine for long so no signs of overheating. Other causes could be head gasket failure or manifold failure.
Purchased a new egr cooler, but have decided to fit the new unit blanking off the exhaust port and egr port and connecting the coolant hoses to bypass the cooler. Thus the new egr cooler with new gasket and cleaned egr will be present should I need to use the egr in future.
There is a freelander2_Manual in pdf format online that describes the procedure. The space behind the engine is very confined, accessing bolts
(hex & allen key type) is by touch in some cases, a torch and mirror helps. Disconnect the wiring harness and remove brackets to create more
work room. A paper clip helped to release the egr harness plug and a flat band plier helped with the cooler inlet hose clamp.
With the egr cooler off I will check the unit to be sure that this is the cause of coolant entering the exhaust. I'll then cut off the inlet and outlet ports and weld these together to create an adapter to link the coolant hose.
Unfortunately it does take awhile to remove the egr, if you just intend blanking the ports and connecting the coolant hoses to delete the egr unit then there is no need to fit a replacement egr - there will be more space behind the engine in future.
Having a replacement egr attached means that I cant reattach the egr to the ecu circuit ... have not had any issues yet with the engine check light.
 
Andromeda2302 said:
Busy removing egr cooler for replacement with new unit. Egr & cooler come off as a unit.
After an oil change, I noticed I had over filled after running the engine. Corrected oil level whereafter I experienced white smoke from exhaust, exhaust bubbling in expansion tank, aircon heater runs cold, hissing noise from exhaust and coolant disappearing with no external sign of a leak. Car starts and runs fine, did not run the engine for long so no signs of overheating. Other causes could be head gasket failure or manifold failure.
Purchased a new egr cooler, but have decided to fit the new unit blanking off the exhaust port and egr port and connecting the coolant hoses to bypass the cooler. Thus the new egr cooler with new gasket and cleaned egr will be present should I need to use the egr in future.
There is a freelander2_Manual in pdf format online that describes the procedure. The space behind the engine is very confined, accessing bolts
(hex & allen key type) is by touch in some cases, a torch and mirror helps. Disconnect the wiring harness and remove brackets to create more
work room. A paper clip helped to release the egr harness plug and a flat band plier helped with the cooler inlet hose clamp.
With the egr cooler off I will check the unit to be sure that this is the cause of coolant entering the exhaust. I'll then cut off the inlet and outlet ports and weld these together to create an adapter to link the coolant hose.
Unfortunately it does take awhile to remove the egr, if you just intend blanking the ports and connecting the coolant hoses to delete the egr unit then there is no need to fit a replacement egr - there will be more space behind the engine in future.
Having a replacement egr attached means that I cant reattach the egr to the ecu circuit ... have not had any issues yet with the engine check light.
Click to expand...
should read ... "can reattach the egr to the ecu" ...
 
I have attached a collage of the EGR repair. Note the features of the respective EGR coolers differ, specifically the original has 32 gas ports and a large chamber clearly intended to maximize exhaust gas transfer to the engine. The new (Jul 2017) cooler drops the large chamber but retains the
32 gas ports increasing the amount of coolant that can circulate between the ports and likely reducing the volume of exhaust gases that are drawn into the EGR valve chamber. A bypass tube was fabricated from the salvaged port tubes of the original cooler, to be used to reroute coolant from the egr cooler thus it is only exhaust gas that passes through the egr cooler to reach the egr valve. The efficiency of a cooler can reduce by 25% to attain a stable state. The amount of heat transferred from gas @ ~375° to a 32 vane cooler @ ~103°C may be negligible and the increased efficiency of coolant passed to the radiator is believed by some to compensate for this loss in egr cooling. The bypass can also be used temporarily if there is uncertainty regarding the functioning of the egr valve or if a head gasket failure is still a concern.
The collage shows evidence of coolant crystals present in the egr valve ports. Moreover, the accumulated soot with coolant coating the head can
be mistaken for a head gasket failure.
A tapped hole in the exhaust aft of the manifold is an easy solution to draining the exhaust of fluids, a bolt or screw is then seated to plug the hole. Two alu 3mm blanking plates are available for blanking of the egr circuit at the exhaust manifold and egr vacuum hose should the effect
be warranted.
Following the repair and recharging with coolant (bring engine up to temperature to open thermostat, drain and recharge. Run HOT aircon to purge heater core) all symptoms disappeared:- exhaust gas bubbles in expansion tank, white smoke from exhaust, poor idle unblanked and rapid loss of coolant (with no visible leaks). Noticed that cold start is easier, the engine reaches temp sooner, the engine sounds smooth and am anticipating improved mpg.
 

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Andromeda2302 said:
I have attached a collage of the EGR repair. Note the features of the respective EGR coolers differ, specifically the original has 32 gas ports and a large chamber clearly intended to maximize exhaust gas transfer to the engine. The new (Jul 2017) cooler drops the large chamber but retains the
32 gas ports increasing the amount of coolant that can circulate between the ports and likely reducing the volume of exhaust gases that are drawn into the EGR valve chamber. A bypass tube was fabricated from the salvaged port tubes of the original cooler, to be used to reroute coolant from the egr cooler thus it is only exhaust gas that passes through the egr cooler to reach the egr valve. The efficiency of a cooler can reduce by 25% to attain a stable state. The amount of heat transferred from gas @ ~375° to a 32 vane cooler @ ~103°C may be negligible and the increased efficiency of coolant passed to the radiator is believed by some to compensate for this loss in egr cooling. The bypass can also be used temporarily if there is uncertainty regarding the functioning of the egr valve or if a head gasket failure is still a concern.
The collage shows evidence of coolant crystals present in the egr valve ports. Moreover, the accumulated soot with coolant coating the head can
be mistaken for a head gasket failure.
A tapped hole in the exhaust aft of the manifold is an easy solution to draining the exhaust of fluids, a bolt or screw is then seated to plug the hole. Two alu 3mm blanking plates are available for blanking of the egr circuit at the exhaust manifold and egr vacuum hose should the effect
be warranted.
Following the repair and recharging with coolant (bring engine up to temperature to open thermostat, drain and recharge. Run HOT aircon to purge heater core) all symptoms disappeared:- exhaust gas bubbles in expansion tank, white smoke from exhaust, poor idle unblanked and rapid loss of coolant (with no visible leaks). Noticed that cold start is easier, the engine reaches temp sooner, the engine sounds smooth and am anticipating improved mpg.
Click to expand...

Urban economy with egr cooler bypass appears to be avg 9.0 l/100km.

Click, click symptom on start required removal of the starter motor assembly and servicing the solenoid. The agents sell a service kit for approx. R2000, however the contacts for the Denso starter are R55 - R80 if sourced from the distributors or retail outlet. I noticed an oily residue behind the starter assembly which could indicate a leaky seal, I am attributing this to residual from the oil cooler hose that gets blown onto the engine.
I cleaned the area and used contact cleaner on the sensor wiring.

Extra Urban economy reported 8.0 l/100km Cape Town to George and improved to 7.7 l/100km roundtrip to Oudtshoorn - weather was mild 18 C.
Return trip to CPT reported 8.4 l/100km - experienced a cold front, 11C with NW cross winds. It is also possible that the gradient of inclines are steeper on the return trip. Will continue monitoring economy as I plan to reconnect the egr cooler to compare the effect of the heat sink.
Cooler weather in the form of a weather system introduces denser air (with moisture) into the system, thus the MAF may also play a part in the regulation of fuel delivery. I anticipate the egr heatsink will cause gases to cool which in turn reduces gas volume in the cooler creating a vacuum that draws more exhaust gases into the engine, however this will never match the quantity of exhaust gases of the original egr cooler (loss of chamber volume). Depending on the readings I may elect to experiment with the blanking plate at the manifold outlet port (feeds gas to egr).
PS. engine is decat'd - also reduces the concentration of exhaust gas available for egr uptake.
 
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