recomend a good wax

Wash it, then clay it, then a good polish, then wax it with Collinite 915. Not a 5 min job but its much easier to clean afterwards, and it will shine for months!

I agree with the 'it takes time and effort' approach to 'detailing' your paint to kee up with the best out there.... Take a look at this. I took this after I had spent almost 12 hours on the paintwork of the Merc getting it near perfect.......

I recently purchased a KESTRAL DAS-6 Dual Action Polisher, and here is some advice I can offer on how I have detailed my cars to get the 'best gleam in the car-park' look you seek....

ITEMS USED: KESTRAL DAS-6 DA Polisher
Sonus Pads
Menzerner 3 stage polishes
Black Colour Magic mixed with Carlack
Collinite
Microfibres

If you dont need to clay your car you can move straight onto the polishing stage. (If the car's paint is rough when you run your hand over it you can use a detailing spray like that from Meguires and their clay to gently run it over the bodywork until it feels like glass.

You can pick your choice of which pads and polish products you want... personally I went for the Sonus pads and Menzerna Products (polishes).
I actually didnt need to use the Cutting Compound (by the way it is quite harsh stuff!) so I moved straight onto the next stage of fine compound Power Finish making sure I 'spritzed' or wetted the pads with detailer spray before applying the polishing compound. I started out on a slow speed for coverage then stepped up and lightened the pressure as I went. I did it just enough to take the small swirls out of the paint thanks to daily use of the car. Then swapped pads out and laid on the Final Finish to remove the very finest of blemishes left with the least harsh pad.

I then switched to the polishing by hand method and the microfibres. I put Carlack Nano-system onto a pad and added some Colour Magic (just to mask any further scratches and enhance the dept in colour) and polished the whole car. Then after that I left it all to 'cure' for a couple of days.

Next stage was to seal the good work in and I used this amazingly strong product, COLLINITE. Its virtually inpenetrable even for those anal enough to wash their cars twice or thrice a week like I do! Two good coats will last you at least 6 PROPER FULL months and thats with regular washing.

If you really want to top up the wet look shine you can use a light coating of R222 (but apply it and immediately wipe off before dry for best results)











You need to keep up the correct washing routine also in order to keep this amazing finish.

I realise this will be way, way over the top for the majority of Landy owners, especially given the nature of the vehicle and how they get used, but it was just a highlight into how some people get that amazing look on their black paintwork just so that you are not fooled into thinking that a bottle of Autoglym and an hour or so will get you the same result.

I have a problem, I know and I need help

If you start playing with cutting compounds and clay bars be careful. A bit too much pressure and you will get swirls and marks like you wouldn't believe. As for wax look for something with a high carnauba content.

Rob Edge said:

If you start playing with cutting compounds and clay bars be careful. A bit too much pressure and you will get swirls and marks like you wouldn't believe. As for wax look for something with a high carnauba content.

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Not a problem at all, IF you follow my steps, because as I state, firstly keep it well lubed with detailing spray and secondly, more importantly you clay your car BEFORE YOU SWIRL REDUCE IT with the polisher..... Thats the whole idea.

You need to keep the clay well turned and always wet. Then after it feels real nice and smooth move onto the swirth reduction and polishing. Been following this process for years and never ruined a car yet..

BUT, I would always advice a beginner to go for a Dual Action polisher rather than a rotory as they are much more forgiving and less lightly to burr through the paint. Also if possible take readings with a paint depth gauge. BUT as I say, this is all a bit advanced... but it IS how you will get stunning black paintwork.

CockneyPlayboy said:

Not a problem at all, IF you follow my steps, because as I state, firstly keep it well lubed with detailing spray and secondly, more importantly you clay your car BEFORE YOU SWIRL REDUCE IT with the polisher..... Thats the whole idea.

You need to keep the clay well turned and always wet. Then after it feels real nice and smooth move onto the swirth reduction and polishing. Been following this process for years and never ruined a car yet..

BUT, I would always advice a beginner to go for a Dual Action polisher rather than a rotory as they are much more forgiving and less lightly to burr through the paint. Also if possible take readings with a paint depth gauge. BUT as I say, this is all a bit advanced... but it IS how you will get stunning black paintwork.

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Not wishing to start a bunfight but to someone who hasn't touched this subject before it would pay to be careful. I don't do detailing. I am a painter so know a thing or two about polishing and paint defects

Collinite 476s - Ultimate Protection Car Wax

is the one is use, looks expensive but you use very little and it last a long time

Have a look at this stuff, no more waxing???

http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/optimum-opti-coat-20-permanent-paint-coating.php

Sorry I keep adding as I go but

Dodo Juice is a great shampoo for the car, I use apple, again a quality product, and will go a long way for your ££

"Not wishing to start a bunfight but to someone who hasn't touched this subject before it would pay to be careful. I don't do detailing. I am a painter so know a thing or two about polishing and paint defects"

I see a bunfight comming....:mil90:

So I'll start it....

I cant see the link between being a hairy arsed painter and the fineties of polishing a car. Especially when the car looks that good!!

:mooning:


Fuse lit...op2:............

stevef1964 said:

I see a bunfight comming....:mil90:

So I'll start it....I cant see the link between being a hairy arsed painter and the fineties of polishing a car. Especially when the car looks that good!!

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Without the painter getting the finish right in the first place you wouldn't have anything to polish . I am not having a go at anybody or trying to criticise what someone else has done. Past experience tells me that buffer+novice+swage line=woops

Of course painting is a skill, waxing and polishing isn't so much of a skill, anyone can do it correctly if they just only read up about the do's and dont's its a nack rather than a skill you have to be trained in, its easy, and all you need is a little elbow grease, but some products are easier and better than others..... now using a clay i would say, leave it to the professionals, I have seen 2 cars ( and a bonnet) ruined because of it, myself I wouldn't touch it, its a skill (probably not a hard one) but its the kinda thing you have to watch someone do it then have a go at it before you DIY

Or you could always try that stuff tiff needell advertise's on telly !

As long as you use plenty of lube when claying its not too difficult. And if you stick to an orbital polisher its pretty hard to 'strike through' (not impossible). But a full on rotary polisher should be left to the pros, or at least have lots of practice on some old panels before you have a go at your pride and joy.

Endeleus said:

I swear by Mer polish - the cumulative effect means it gets a little bit better each time, rather than waxing where you have to get the surface absolutely prepared before applying the first coat of wax.

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+1. Most of the people I know in the trade use Mer.

Rob Edge said:

Without the painter getting the finish right in the first place you wouldn't have anything to polish .Past experience tells me that buffer+novice+swage line=woops

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Hmmm, not strictly true. Being a detailer (one who can also spray paint) I would say that spraying is a skill but one which is a lot easier to learn than paint polishing.

I've colour sanded a few motor in the past, mainly to correct paint defects such as scratches but I've also colour sanded new paint on a show Vee Dub. The guy who painted that needs to go to specsavers (runs and all sorts) but most of it didn't matter really, it was the polishing work which made the car what it was. It got 2nd place BTW, ****y really, should have been 1st LOL.

As for wax, if you're not going to do any kind of preparation work like claybar or machine polishing, buy the cheapest wax you clap eyes on. It's pointless putting decent wax on unprepared paint. Grab a tin of turtle wax from Hellfrauds.

dsolds said:

Hmmm, not strictly true. Being a detailer (one who can also spray paint) I would say that spraying is a skill but one which is a lot easier to learn than paint polishing.

I've colour sanded a few motor in the past, mainly to correct paint defects such as scratches but I've also colour sanded new paint on a show Vee Dub. The guy who painted that needs to go to specsavers (runs and all sorts) but most of it didn't matter really, it was the polishing work which made the car what it was. It got 2nd place BTW, ****y really, should have been 1st LOL.

As for wax, if you're not going to do any kind of preparation work like claybar or machine polishing, buy the cheapest wax you clap eyes on. It's pointless putting decent wax on unprepared paint. Grab a tin of turtle wax from Hellfrauds.

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A skilled painter serves an apprenticeship and learns many differnent techniques like blending, roll off, wet on wet and fade. He also learns how to alter the finish of the clear from super flat to peal. I can't recall seing a an apprenticeship for detailing. I do appreciate the work that goes into perfecting paint but a lot of smoke and mirrors is talked which stems from the states. The difference is that when a painter works in a volume controlled crash repair bodyshop then all that is required is that the finish is as good as when new. If a customer want's perfect then that just involves more labour time to attain it. The quick way to deep shine which will last a rasonable time is wash with neutral water and soft soap. Rinse with neutral water. Chamois it until dry then use a colour magic wax mixed with a PDI wax. PDI is pre delivery inspection and it is what is applied to new cars Don't waste money on supagaurd, diamondbrite, scotchgaurd etc they don't work and you really are being ripped Supagaurd costs about £15 and is sold for at least £250.

Rob Edge said:

A skilled painter serves an apprenticeship and learns many different techniques like blending, roll off, wet on wet and fade. He also learns how to alter the finish of the clear from super flat to peal. I can't recall seeing a an apprenticeship for detailing.

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The only painters I've come across who served an apprenticeship are all retired now, sad though it is, the modern (anything post 1979) apprenticeship consists of learning on the job and some day release to the local college, sorry, University. No tech colleges left either, all trendy uni's nowadays.

Given the amount of bodyshops who can't paint one door on a Disco because of colour match issues only serves to prove the above. They always insist on painting the whole side so they can hide their shoddy colour matching on a bonnet shut line. It would be so nice to find a bodyshop with some proper time-served painters, they are in a very tiny minority nowadays.

Totally agree about diamondbrite, supaguard etc. Snake oil. Not tried the PDI wax trick though. Where would one acquire something like that from?

dsolds said:

The only painters I've come across who served an apprenticeship are all retired now, sad though it is, the modern (anything post 1979) apprenticeship consists of learning on the job and some day release to the local college, sorry, University. No tech colleges left either, all trendy uni's nowadays.

Given the amount of bodyshops who can't paint one door on a Disco because of colour match issues only serves to prove the above. They always insist on painting the whole side so they can hide their shoddy colour matching on a bonnet shut line. It would be so nice to find a bodyshop with some proper time-served painters, they are in a very tiny minority nowadays.

Totally agree about diamondbrite, supaguard etc. Snake oil. Not tried the PDI wax trick though. Where would one acquire something like that from?

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How many variants on average do you think a colour has? Even a photspectrometer will not guarantee colour match. Different manufacturers of paint will attain the same visible colour using different pigments so unless you have the exact pot that the car was painted in you haven't much chance of getting it to exact match. How do you solve the problem of colour fade from an aged panel because the code only gives you it's original colour when leaving the factory. It might have been painted numerous times and I have come across many jobs were the front doesn't match the back. You wouldn't detect it with the human eye though.

I am trying out ,Show Room Shine. The waterless car cleaner/polish.. done. The bike,& the 2 cars ..looking good at the mo... It has that Canuba wax in it......

get a life

isnt polishing and painting just as much of a skill as anything else i thought it was

jamesmartin said:

isnt polishing and painting just as much of a skill as anything else i thought it was

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Not for Sean as he is always polishing his nob and painting his finger nails