will face lift front end fit pre face lift models

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The Mad Hat Man said:
why change the column levers? unnecessary
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Just because it was an option given by a member and straight forward. I’m not sure which relays need changing for which. If I find out tho then I’m sure that’d be easier. But stalks not a hard job if I don’t. im open to all suggestions, easier the better haha
 
Didz1982 said:
Just because it was an option given by a member and straight forward.
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It's just a thought that the column switch could be different, as the wiring looks to be much the same to me.

I've not actually tried it though, so don't know for sure if the column switch is different.

It is possible to use a diode and relays to make it work too.
 
Wiring diagram looks good.
Just a suggestion. Power the coil of a relay from the main beam, connect the dipped beam through the common and normally closed contacts, so when main beam activated cuts power to dipped beam. This would need only one relay if it was double pole.
relay1_zpsodoi9tt5.jpg


Obviously make the connections good and fix the relay well.
 
J_D said:
Wiring diagram looks good.
Just a suggestion. Power the coil of a relay from the main beam, connect the dipped beam through the common and normally closed contacts, so when main beam activated cuts power to dipped beam. This would need only one relay if it was double pole.
relay1_zpsodoi9tt5.jpg


Obviously make the connections good and fix the relay well.
Click to expand...
Why would you want to do that? The idea is to add main and dip, not to cut dip.
 
If im right in thinking, the FL1 run high and dip separately but the facelift runs both. And this is the need for the mod? But without the mod, do the lights just work like the FL1? So still decent but the facelift is even better? So would benefit from the mod, no necessarily require it?
 
Didz1982 said:
If im right in thinking, the FL1 run high and dip separately but the facelift runs both.
Click to expand...

That's correct. The early FL1 uses a single, duel filament H4 bulb, which would overheat if both main and dip are on at the same time. The facelift went over to a pair of H7 bulbs, so the dip remains on, while the main beams add to it. This gives a vast improvement in light output because you have more bulbs lit at one time, and the H7 bulb is about 30% brighter than the older design H4 bulbs.

Didz1982 said:
And this is the need for the mod?
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Indeed.

Didz1982 said:
do the lights just work like the FL1?
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I don't understand the question.

Didz1982 said:
So still decent but the facelift is even better?
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The facelift is much better than the pre-facelift.
 
Nodge68 said:
I don't understand the question.
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Ok, my bad. So what I’m saying is. As I’m Not quite sure where to add the extra relay too, or what relay to add. That if I simply split the power from the FL1 loom high and low, to the two separate bulbs on the facelift lights that it’s work but as the FL1 did. Separately? until I can find out what it is exactly I need to add to get both to stay on. I will be able to take a bit of the facelift loom with the lights. So just a case of soldering it together.

Or even as above, but change the switch gear to the facelift too would enable both on together would it?

sorry for my lack of understanding here, I’m pretty good around cars and a good understating of wiring. But not so much relays. I understand what they do. But not so much which is which etc. I’ve used one once to reverse a current on a bike for a N light is all.
andyfreelandy said:
Covered in some detail where I compared circuits and results! Simple wire link does the job. Or change the headlight switch. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/head-light-wire-colours.342517/
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Thanks for that. I’ve had a read. But nobody actually came back to say if just changing that switch gear worked. It’d be great if it does and I can simply change that and split the two live wires from the h4 to high and low of the two h7’s.
I presume this means I’d need no diode either?
I’ve access to most of the donor facelift. Do bits of wiring shud be no issue.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
If you don’t know what you are doing. Leave it well alone.

Wow..... I’ve rebuilt cars and bikes with no issues, I’ve changed analogue clocks for digital, rewired bikes with old knackered looms, I could go on to prove how non useless I am..... but confess to knowing little about variations in relays. I’ve come on to ask experienced owners of how they did it. If telling me which relay u used and between which wire is a step too far then I apologies for wasting ur time. I can guess that I need a relay that opens when powered from the high beam to transfer power to the low beam too. As a fixed wire would illuminate both at all times.
But as I’m not certain I was asking. Again, as people seem to have done it already.












Or invest in a fire extinguisher. I am out of here. It’s a waste of my time.
Click to expand...
 
I did, and thanked you for it, it will be off missive help. But that’s what stumped me. It shows a simple diode between the main and dipped beam. In favour of sending the current from the high to dipped. But the only relay on it was the stock one. Or at least I presume it’s the stock one. But I’ve read multiple posts and some are saying relay and diode. Yourself says a relay. So I was asking where this relay is to go in addition to that diagram.... (my guess is where the diode is, one or the other, cud we’ll be wrong, hence asking). Also if the standard relay would of needed to go from the FL1.... (I’m think no, no need).
I think I have enough information to work it out for myself now anyway. The only issue I need to over come is making both lights stay on while in full beam. Other than that a simple split for the 2 h7’s over the single h4. Should be easy enough.
 
If you don't know. A diode only allows the current to pass one way.
So if the power is just being sent to dipped beam there has to be a way to stop it going to high beam, either by a relay (switch) or diode (which will block it).
When high beam is powered the current can then go through the diode to dipped beam circuit.

Give something a try and then there's something to work with.

However you make it work, and you can, make sure the cable is rated high enough for the lights and not solely reliant on 'if the fuse doesn't blow its OK'.
 
J_D said:
If you don't know. A diode only allows the current to pass one way.
So if the power is just being sent to dipped beam there has to be a way to stop it going to high beam, either by a relay (switch) or diode (which will block it).
When high beam is powered the current can then go through the diode to dipped beam circuit.

Give something a try and then there's something to work with.

However you make it work, and you can, make sure the cable is rated high enough for the lights and not solely reliant on 'if the fuse doesn't blow its OK'.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I got the use of the diode, that’s why I was so thrown with talks of a relay as well as a diode. I was over complicating it then in my head. Thinking the normal one must have to go or have another elsewhere as well etc, but it seems it’s just a simple bridge with the diode in. Shud be really easy. He says haha
 
The problem with using a diode to feed the dip bulbs when mains are on, is the main beam circuit will be carrying the current of both bulbs at the same time. This will overload the main beam circuit, which is why a relay is used to feed the power from elsewhere.

It's a bodge imo though.
 
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