Where to buy paint from and a bit of advice?

So basically, I need to buy some paint...

I am starting a rebuild, bottom up. There is so much choice, so many suppliers so I was hoping I could be pointed in the right direction by someone who has 'been there, done that' so to speak.

I'd like to go for a matt black colour and then have contrasting shiny blue for little parts or out of the way places.

Firstly Chassis; I intent to rub down, weld patches replace parts and then paint. I am thinking etch prime, red oxide, prime and then paint. Is that kind of the right way to go about this?

I'd like to paint things like springs, shocks, springs, axles and similar in the blue. Due to the fact these areas are either under stress or are susceptible to stone chips, do I have to use a more durable product rather than a panel finish paint?

Obviously I am still awhile away from painting the panels, but when i do come to do them, should it still be the same method of etch prime, red oxide, filler prime and then finish coat?
Also is 2k the best to use?

So I'd really appreciate any advice or suggestions of companies that supply good paint.

Thanks a lot,

Jasper

Unless you are shot blasting your chassis i would'nt waste your money on etch primer,just get some 2k epoxy primer then put you colour on.2k is the best to use but it is also meant to be sprayed on but you can brush it obviously the finnish won't be as good.the panels if you rub down to the ally then yes you will need an etch primer but buy an acid etch wash primer it looks like pee but is a lot better than just etch primer.once you have done that then you can use your epoxy primer then colour.

Leave 2k for the pros in booths with breathing gear. It's nasty stuff, save your lungs for when you are 60.

Rub down - get stuck in with a wire brush on a grinder or a drill and get amoingst the grot. Wear a dust mask and gogles - those bristles get everywhere.

Be brutal - you won't regret it. Mince about and kid yourself that you have done a solid job, and you'll be doing it again soon.

If you use Hammerite products make sure you use their thinners too - their wierd but great paint doesn't thin with white spirit etc. I've done dozens of chassis etc with hammerite as a top coat and never seen rust return from underneath.

I've always used autopaint St. Helens but tbh any Independent vehicle paint shop will sort you out

MIB said:

Leave 2k for the pros in booths with breathing gear. It's nasty stuff, save your lungs for when you are 60.

Rub down - get stuck in with a wire brush on a grinder or a drill and get amoingst the grot. Wear a dust mask and gogles - those bristles get everywhere.

Be brutal - you won't regret it. Mince about and kid yourself that you have done a solid job, and you'll be doing it again soon.

If you use Hammerite products make sure you use their thinners too - their wierd but great paint doesn't thin with white spirit etc. I've done dozens of chassis etc with hammerite as a top coat and never seen rust return from underneath.

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Yeah I've been told that 2k doesn't do lungs much good! What do you suggest I use on the panels? I've had good results when i've sprayed with cellulose but I am under the impression cellulose is a bit old now. Is that correct?
Thannks

200 said:

Unless you are shot blasting your chassis i would'nt waste your money on etch primer,just get some 2k epoxy primer then put you colour on.2k is the best to use but it is also meant to be sprayed on but you can brush it obviously the finnish won't be as good.the panels if you rub down to the ally then yes you will need an etch primer but buy an acid etch wash primer it looks like pee but is a lot better than just etch primer.once you have done that then you can use your epoxy primer then colour.

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I forgot to say that I was going to shot blast the chassis. I have got a spray gun and so I wouldn't bother using a brush.
So etch is used when dealing with bare metal?
Do I need to remove all existing paint or does a bit not matter?

Cheers

If your painting onto shot blasted steel you won't need etch primer, doesn't matter about removing all the paint as long as what is there is in good order and has a decent key on it. As for the paint, I went to a local paint specialist and told them what I wanted and they told me what paint would be best for the job. I ended up with an epoxy primer and a 2k topcoat, looks great and I havnt done any damage to it yet (chassis is still in the shed but I dropped a hammer on it the other day and didn't leave a mark )

AlbertDefender90 said:

If your painting onto shot blasted steel you won't need etch primer, doesn't matter about removing all the paint as long as what is there is in good order and has a decent key on it. As for the paint, I went to a local paint specialist and told them what I wanted and they told me what paint would be best for the job. I ended up with an epoxy primer and a 2k topcoat, looks great and I havnt done any damage to it yet (chassis is still in the shed but I dropped a hammer on it the other day and didn't leave a mark )

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That epoxy primer is ment to be tough stuff, That's probably why, Want to give it a try myself at some point.

aaronmorris said:

That epoxy primer is ment to be tough stuff, That's probably why, Want to give it a try myself at some point.

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I wouldn't use any other primer for steel now put it that way

When I asked for the paint I specified something durable and salt and chemical resistant. The stuff they gave me is the same paint used by British salt

AlbertDefender90 said:

When I asked for the paint I specified something durable and salt and chemical resistant. The stuff they gave me is the same paint used by British salt

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If you taking salt resistant and hard wearing look into the jotun range ie conseal tu. conseal is (container seal) used for shipping containers. They also have many others in the range. Another paint company is HMG they do many industrial paints for many purposes.

thought it was mine! said:

If you taking salt resistant and hard wearing look into the jotun range ie conseal tu. conseal is (container seal) used for shipping containers. They also have many others in the range. Another paint company is HMG they do many industrial paints for many purposes.

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HMG is the brand I've used

Cheers for all the replys. I'll have a look into the epoxy primer. Problem i have is where i live, there aren't any autopaint suppliers. The local businesses that are painters say that they need a licence, which they dont, have to sell the paint they use.
Thanks again

AlbertDefender90 said:

I wouldn't use any other primer for steel now put it that way

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Oooh, Good to hear, Will give it a try at some point.

Jaspermowatt said:

Cheers for all the replys. I'll have a look into the epoxy primer. Problem i have is where i live, there aren't any autopaint suppliers. The local businesses that are painters say that they need a licence, which they dont, have to sell the paint they use.
Thanks again

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Were abouts are you? Local painters must get there's from some were.
Or I've bought paint of ebay in the past.

AlbertDefender90 said:

HMG is the brand I've used

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we havent long started supplying it and in only a few months we have had to upgrade the tinting machinery because of demand for this paint. From manual tinting with scales to fully automated (big bucks)

Some paint sipplier won't supply "nasty"paints like 2K and certain others unless you have a trade account - they are just taking care of your health.

If you are shotblasting, please don't try to do it on the cheap and use B&Q sharp sand. You'll end up with silicosis - miner's lungs. The warning on bags of sharp sand is there for a reason. Use proper blast medium, and get lots of it, and a kitchen seive and a drum funnel - when you sweep the shop floor you can re-use it all once the lumps are out. And don't forget the goggles and filter mask - not one of those silly paper thingsin elastic - you need to be looking like a storm trooper before you pick up a shot/grit blaster gun.

Have fun - it is immensely satisfying to do.

MIB said:

Some paint sipplier won't supply "nasty"paints like 2K and certain others unless you have a trade account - they are just taking care of your health.

If you are shotblasting, please don't try to do it on the cheap and use B&Q sharp sand. You'll end up with silicosis - miner's lungs. The warning on bags of sharp sand is there for a reason. Use proper blast medium, and get lots of it, and a kitchen seive and a drum funnel - when you sweep the shop floor you can re-use it all once the lumps are out. And don't forget the goggles and filter mask - not one of those silly paper thingsin elastic - you need to be looking like a storm trooper before you pick up a shot/grit blaster gun.

Have fun - it is immensely satisfying to do.

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Where I got the 2k paint from they just warned me and suggested I should buy a proper air fed mask. When I told them the mask was too expensive they just told me to make sure I painted in a well ventilated shed and take breaks between coats

AlbertDefender90 said:

Where I got the 2k paint from they just warned me and suggested I should buy a proper air fed mask. When I told them the mask was too expensive they just told me to make sure I painted in a well ventilated shed and take breaks between coats

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true it contains cyanide (isocyanate)

Yeah that's what they said. General rule of thumb I use is leave the workshop when I start getting a headache

AlbertDefender90 said:

Yeah that's what they said. General rule of thumb I use is leave the workshop when I start getting a headache

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i think id leave before headache occurred or get a mask you can get filters that deal with cyanide

jamesmartin said:

i think id leave before headache occurred or get a mask you can get filters that deal with cyanide

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True, But they only last for a certain amount of hours, Personally I never bothered with them.