Painting Defender Rear Crossmember

LandySurf · Aug 9, 2023

Hey all

Looking to paint the rear crossmember at the weekend to spruce things up a little bit!

I don't want to spray it - i'd rather paint it by hand - just personal preference
Yes i know it's easier to spray - more time effective - etc - but just personal preference to paint by hand ....

I've read in a few places that a few people have used various grades of wire wool in the first instance to prep it
Coarse grade followed by a fine grade.....

Then from here - primer and then finally painting etc.

I was just wondering if you might all recommend some products in terms of wire wool / primer / paint etc.

I don't want a satin finish and would rather go with matte!

New to all of this so apologies but just reaching out for a bit of advice and to benefit from experience.
Hope you all don't mind!

Happy Wednesday and thanks!

meego · Aug 9, 2023

LandySurf said:
Hey all

Looking to paint the rear crossmember at the weekend to spruce things up a little bit!

I don't want to spray it - i'd rather paint it by hand - just personal preference
Yes i know it's easier to spray - more time effective - etc - but just personal preference to paint by hand ....

I've read in a few places that a few people have used various grades of wire wool in the first instance to prep it
Coarse grade followed by a fine grade.....

Then from here - primer and then finally painting etc.

I was just wondering if you might all recommend some products in terms of wire wool / primer / paint etc.

I don't want a satin finish and would rather go with matte!

New to all of this so apologies but just reaching out for a bit of advice and to benefit from experience.
Hope you all don't mind!

Happy Wednesday and thanks!

Preparation depends on its current condition. Wire wool is really only for creating a key on paint in reasonable condition with not a lot of rust. If it is quite corroded, I would recommend a wire cup brush on an angle grinder. Based on the condition of my own, the worst is the back side of it where all the stupid wee pockets and recesses are. A wire brush set for a drill is good for getting in about there. For priming, use Bonda primer as it has Zinc in it and it is great to apply by brush.

300bhp/ton · Aug 9, 2023

Is it rusty?

How much prep are you prepared to do? The prep is the biggest thing with paintwork. Else just a quick clean and rubdown to key the surface, then use some direct to metal paint. Loads of choice from well known names to less known names.

marjon · Aug 9, 2023

Is it worth tarting up the bit you can see, what's it like on the back

Your effort may look good for a while but come straight back.

J

LandySurf · Aug 9, 2023

It's pretty rusty and looking quite awful! I know it's one of those things that i'm going to have to do quite frequently before replacing it as it's near the end of its life - its just to take the eyes off it a little!

Direct to metal paint sounds good - I've heard of quite a few people using this! Hammerite I think?

Would I be right in thinking that one of them has a built in primer so it's not needed?
I think it's 'direct to rust metal paint' by hammerite - and you don't need a primer.

I'm not looking at doing a crazy professional job - just tarting it up for a few months before I can be bothered to do it again! lol

"Is it worth tarting up the bit you can see, what's it like on the back"

..... Don't ask!!! LOL!

Question.....

I know this might be a daft one -

But can you use sandpaper to rub the rear crossmember down? I've seen that some people use aluminium oxide sandpaper to rub the area down - but can anyone advise if this is the case - and if so - what grit?

meego · Aug 9, 2023

LandySurf said:
It's pretty rusty and looking quite awful! I know it's one of those things that i'm going to have to do quite frequently before replacing it as it's near the end of its life - its just to take the eyes off it a little!

Direct to metal paint sounds good - I've heard of quite a few people using this! Hammerite I think?

Would I be right in thinking that one of them has a built in primer so it's not needed?
I think it's 'direct to rust metal paint' by hammerite - and you don't need a primer.

I'm not looking at doing a crazy professional job - just tarting it up for a few months before I can be bothered to do it again! lol

"Is it worth tarting up the bit you can see, what's it like on the back" ..... Don't ask!!! LOL!

Question.....

I know this might be a daft one -

But can you use sandpaper to rub the rear crossmember down? I've seen that some people use aluminium oxide sandpaper to rub the area down - but can anyone advise if this is the case - and if so - what grit?

If its that bad, you might end up with holes in it when you start rubbing it down. It’s surprising how a wee rust blister can grow when you poke about it

If sand paper is all you have, then that will need to do. Yes, Hammerite is straight to metal/rust paint. But that doesn’t mean it cures rust !!

LandySurf · Aug 9, 2023

Would you say there is any advantage to using primer and then painting - over using something like Hammerite?

tottot · Aug 9, 2023

LandySurf said:
Would you say there is any advantage to using primer and then painting - over using something like Hammerite?

Not realy as all you are doing is extending its life a bit. Just paint the out side with what you can get and then spray the back with a mix of engine oil and diesel. A garden spray pump is good for this.

Wimblowdriver · Aug 9, 2023

Painted mine last year. Only had light surface rust but it looked untidy. Wire brush on an angle grinder to prep it, mostly removing loose paint and rust. Left sound paint on, if it didn't come off with the the aggression of the angle grinder I judged it fit for purpose. Wiped of all dust with a rag dampened with white spirit. Then several coats of Bonds primer, followed by a couple of coats hand brushed Hammerite. If you use bonds primer you'll find the solids separated from the solvent, in a lump at the bottom of the tin. It will remix, but takes a bit of squidging with a stick, and final re-mix with a tent peg in a power drill.

LandySurf · Aug 9, 2023

Wimblowdriver said:
Painted mine last year. Only had light surface rust but it looked untidy. Wire brush on an angle grinder to prep it, mostly removing loose paint and rust. Left sound paint on, if it didn't come off with the the aggression of the angle grinder I judged it fit for purpose. Wiped of all dust with a rag dampened with white spirit. Then several coats of Bonds primer, followed by a couple of coats hand brushed Hammerite. If you use bonds primer you'll find the solids separated from the solvent, in a lump at the bottom of the tin. It will remix, but takes a bit of squidging with a stick, and final re-mix with a tent peg in a power drill. View attachment 294783 View attachment 294784 View attachment 294785

Thanks for this and you did a really great job!

Seems like there is another vote there for Bonds Primer.

If i was to use Bonds for a couple of coats - which hammerite would you use to paint on?

Would it still be the direct to rust one that says it's got primer in it? Would that one be ok to use still?

tottot · Aug 9, 2023

If after that much treatment as above I would use a synthetic enamel. Tractol is a well known make.

Wimblowdriver · Aug 9, 2023

two or three coats of Bonda Primer is what gives the steel the protection it needs. The top coat(s) can be whatever you choose as its mainly decorative. (in my opinion of course). Like @tottot says, use an enamel. Oh, and its Bonda Primer, not Bonds (auto spell checker to blame)

LandySurf · Aug 9, 2023

Bonda Primer! Got it - have just found a litre of it on Amazon! Great stuff. 2 or 3 coats of that so that’s the Primer sorted!

I think from there with the top coat, we’ll go with a couple of coats of Hammerite just for decoration purposes

I’ll grab the matte one that’s got the primer in it as well that I posted a picture of above so that’s sorted! I think that’s on Amazon too!

Last thing I need a little bit more advice on - just to rub the area down with before I use the Bonda rust primer. The rear crossmember is not in the greatest of shape and as mentioned when I first posted, don’t have access to a drill / power tools so this would be by hand. ( I’m just trying to get another year out of the crossmember whilst I save up some pennies to have it replaced etc )

Could you guys give me some recommendations for anything I could get on Amazon to rub it down with by hand, ready for the Bonda? That’s already in the basket alongside the Hammerite - so if you’ve got any suggestions for what I could get to prep this area by hand ready for the above, I’d be so grateful!

Thank you for all your help today with replies and pictures btw! You guys never disappoint! Thanks so much!

meego · Aug 9, 2023

LandySurf said:
Bonda Primer! Got it - have just found a litre of it on Amazon! Great stuff. 2 or 3 coats of that so that’s the Primer sorted!

I think from there with the top coat, we’ll go with a couple of coats of Hammerite just for decoration purposes I’ll grab the matte one that’s got the primer in it as well that I posted a picture of above so that’s sorted! I think that’s on Amazon too!

Last thing I need a little bit more advice on - just to rub the area down with before I use the Bonda rust primer. The rear crossmember is not in the greatest of shape and as mentioned when I first posted, don’t have access to a drill / power tools so this would be by hand. ( I’m just trying to get another year out of the crossmember whilst I save up some pennies to have it replaced etc )

Could you guys give me some recommendations for anything I could get on Amazon to rub it down with by hand, ready for the Bonda? That’s already in the basket alongside the Hammerite - so if you’ve got any suggestions for what I could get to prep this area by hand ready for the above, I’d be so grateful!

Thank you for all your help today with replies and pictures btw! You guys never disappoint! Thanks so much!

A paint scraper and a decent wire brush then. Basic as it comes, but I think that’s your options. Can’t you borrow an angle grinder from someone? Or buy one at Toolstation. A basic one isn’t that expensive and will become a necessity for working on your Landy.

meego · Aug 9, 2023

Basic grinder from Toolstation is £35 and a wire brush wheel another £9
If you go down this road, eye protection is vital.

Brown · Aug 10, 2023

I know a lot of people round here have gone off Hammerite, but I've found their 'direct to rust' version surprisingly effective. Some rusty items I painted in 2012 - just as a temporary measure until I had time to do a 'proper' job - still have good coverage and do not appear to have deteriorated over a decade later. Interestingly enough where I put it straight on the rust it has adhered well, but where I put it on top of red oxide primer, it came off.

Having said that, I probably won't bother buying it again.

dag019 · Aug 10, 2023

Brown said:
I know a lot of people round here have gone off Hammerite, but I've found their 'direct to rust' version surprisingly effective. Some rusty items I painted in 2012 - just as a temporary measure until I had time to do a 'proper' job - still have good coverage and do not appear to have deteriorated over a decade later. Interestingly enough where I put it straight on the rust it has adhered well, but where I put it on top of red oxide primer, it came off.

Having said that, I probably won't bother buying it again.

I would also back hummerite for an application like this. It is not fit an forget but a quick wash down and brush on a new coat every 18months or so keeps it looking smart and the external (not the important part) rust at bay. If you want to do the job once I would agree with the advice above regarding a wire wheel and grinder back to bare metal followed by red oxide primer and a good synthetic machine/tractor enamel but it depends what you are looking to achieve.

On mine I end up painting the Black things every couple of years as they wear, get chipped and fade. But for that I just clean it down and give it another brush coat of machine enamel. I am not as precious an some over how it looks up close.

LandySurf · Aug 10, 2023

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who commented above and for the latest replies! It’s always great to have advice from those who have ‘been there’ and ‘tried it’ - so just wanted to say it’s been very gratefully appreciated!

Got the confidence now to give it a go and see how I get on so just wanted to say a big thank you to all! Fingers crossed we get some sunny weather over the weekend for a few coats to dry!!

Have a good weekend all and thanks again!!

Painting Defender Rear Crossmember

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