Paint reaction

Hi folks,

In a bit of a pickle in the middle of a restoration…

Painted a few bits and pieces with hammerite red oxide (I now am realising this may have been stupid) to nip rust in the bud.

I’ve gone to top coat it in chassis black and I have this reaction going on?

I waited 24 hours, thinking my options are:
1) I wait another few days to test the next section
Or
2) just over coat with something else, any suggestions on a decent top coat ?

This usual metal primer I used on the radius/trailing arms etc has taken fine!

foggy23 said:

Hi folks,

In a bit of a pickle in the middle of a restoration…

Painted a few bits and pieces with hammerite red oxide (I now am realising this may have been stupid) to nip rust in the bud.

I’ve gone to top coat it in chassis black and I have this reaction going on?

I waited 24 hours, thinking my options are:
1) I wait another few days to test the next section
Or
2) just over coat with something else, any suggestions on a decent top coat ?

This usual metal primer I used on the radius/trailing arms etc has taken fine!

Click to expand...

Trouble is you have mixed paint systems. different thinners etc.
You could spray or better still paint it with Hammerite Smooth which won't react, or you may have to go back before you can go forward.
OR you may be able to find some kind of isolating stuff to separate one from the other, new stuff.
I do uunderstand the deisre for chassis black as it copes better with a little bit of flexion, as does exterior Dulux gloss as it is oil based.
I'd have a think about how much the thing you are painting will flex. If not much or not at all I'd go with the smooth Hammerite, two coats applied exactly as it says on the tin, which is a bit fiddly.

Stanleysteamer said:

Trouble is you have mixed paint systems. different thinners etc.
You could spray or better still paint it with Hammerite Smooth which won't react, or you may have to go back before you can go forward.
OR you may be able to find some kind of isolating stuff to separate one from the other, new stuff.
I do uunderstand the deisre for chassis black as it copes better with a little bit of flexion, as does exterior Dulux gloss as it is oil based.
I'd have a think about how much the thing you are painting will flex. If not much or not at all I'd go with the smooth Hammerite, two coats applied exactly as it says on the tin, which is a bit fiddly.

Click to expand...

To screwfix it is anyone want a nearly full tin of Chassis Black?

foggy23 said:

To screwfix it is anyone want a nearly full tin of Chassis Black?

Click to expand...

Better than hammarite smooth for the top coat would be a machine/tractor enamel. It sets very hard (all be it slowly) and is compatible with red oxide primer as it what I paint all of my things in! Then once painted coat everything in your preferred chassis wax (lanoguard, dinitrol, etc) for added protection.

dag019 said:

Better than hammarite smooth for the top coat would be a machine/tractor enamel. It sets very hard (all be it slowly) and is compatible with red oxide primer as it what I paint all of my things in! Then once painted coat everything in your preferred chassis wax (lanoguard, dinitrol, etc) for added protection.

Click to expand...

As he has already painted with Hammerite red oxide which must have Xylene thinner used, then painting over that with tractor paint, unless it too has Xylene will result in the same problem again. Normal red oxide uses white spirit or somesuch so not compatible with Xylene.
And funnily the biggest complaint about Hammerit smooth is that it sets too hard.