well well mot

well took the old girl for mot 9 days ago and she failed on ,
bushes [shocks]
bushes [springs]
4 small bits of welding
1 head light
1 fr bottom brake cylinder
2 fr brake pipes
me thinks easy couple of days ,bit here / bit there job done if only .
well 3 days later only the brake pipes to do
and what a PAIN in the rear I just can't get it right .
then today I get brakes brill I thinks ring up a.flux to insure £65.00 full comp restricted miles 6000.
wait for my mate to take back for mot
he's back in 5mins no brakes and a broken windscreen wiper arm .
wot the fec is going on I have never had a problem before doing l.r
by the way its a 1980 109 2.25 petrol .
can't pull my hair out ant got much left. :wtf:

haha, nearly there though!

shoes on the right way?

yep there ok [brake shoes ]

Its a Landy, its not supposed to work properly. Give it a break.

I find it helps if you take a break for about a week! Hope you get her through next time round

crashbox said:

Its a Landy, its not supposed to work properly. Give it a break.

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that was why he needs them on right way LOL!! :amen:

Landy owners are born masochists! the greater the pain to fix her, the greater the pleasure when she is! Lol Regards. Chris

still no brakes ,getting to me now .
adjusted all drums
bleed all pipes over and over
reverse bleed
bleed with pressure
bleed without pressure
latest clamp of osf hose get a peddle
disconnect top to bottom pipe replace top with b/nipple take off clamp still have peddle
so what todo next ??:frusty:

what brand of brake cylinders are you using? Im having similar trouble at the minute with an ever spongey pedal no matter how much you bleed it. Through investigation I found its the seals in the master cylinder and in a wheel cylinder letting air in (sh1tpart bought and fitted before I knew better).

I will keep going lol

Have heard of this method jack front of vehicle up and wedge brake pedal down and leave overnight. Cannot see what it does in my head but many people swear by it.
Others have removed drums and tied shoes back so least amount of fluid in cylinder then bleed like that.

Blackburn said:

Have heard of this method jack front of vehicle up and wedge brake pedal down and leave overnight. Cannot see what it does in my head but many people swear by it.
Others have removed drums and tied shoes back so least amount of fluid in cylinder then bleed like that.

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You dont have to remove the drum, just adjust the brakes right off

getting tiered of this now , tried every thing nothing works ,
should of kept my rr/classic 3.5 4.0 and 4.2 or my 200 disco or my 3oo disco or my p38/diesel / 4.0lt/4.6.
haven't had a series for 20+ yrs and soon not to have this one .

pete@her said:

getting tiered of this now , tried every thing nothing works ,
should of kept my rr/classic 3.5 4.0 and 4.2 or my 200 disco or my 3oo disco or my p38/diesel / 4.0lt/4.6.
haven't had a series for 20+ yrs and soon not to have this one .

Click to expand...

what doesnt ?

pete@her said:

getting tiered of this now , tried every thing nothing works ,
should of kept my rr/classic 3.5 4.0 and 4.2 or my 200 disco or my 3oo disco or my p38/diesel / 4.0lt/4.6.
haven't had a series for 20+ yrs and soon not to have this one .

Click to expand...

few things to try.

adjust the drums so they are tight on both liners. make sure they are on correctly, else you'll never get it to work.

go clamp all rubber hoses apart from one, bleed it. is the pedal hard? yup, then unclamp another and repeat until you find out which ones iffy.

also an eezi bleed pressure bleeder can help, also when using 2 man method with it

wind back the linings as normal when done.

you can also try jacking the front up and wedging the pedal half pressed for a day.. idea being the air bubbles slowly rise up the pipes.

ok haven't tried the clamp off each r/h and bleed separately will try this tomorrow that's guys ,

I feel your pain loadsa messin to no avail

Replaced everything with new parts drums, mintex pads, cylinders and pipework still get that initial dip to the floor. tried clamping off the cylinders with small g clamps to eliminate the volume in them to no effect.

After hours of reading came across a post where the back plates were removed to flip the wheel cylinders so that the nipple openings are pointing to the sky. if you remove the piston the holes where the fluid enters are half way up the bore so once flipped up 90 degrees the hole is at the top of the cylinder.

Bit the bullet today and went for it. Got everything off surprisingly easily and they blead up a treat. Hardest peddle iv ever had. Ju so that thersst a word of warning, remove the brake shoes before dismantling anything so theres no risk of getting them contaminated with any oil.

Hopefully this is useful for someone

this is a good explanation

Brake Repairs ? Nick's Land Rover - Series III rebuild and restoration