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Freelander 1 MOT Issues/Repairs Needed.

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by MollyNomad, Jun 27, 2019.

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  1. MollyNomad

    MollyNomad Well-Known Member

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    Okay Troops,

    After a few days delay because of work etc I managed to get the Freelander in for a test. Not brilliant news in that it failed on several issues, the main ones being corrosion in the near side sill just infront of rear arch and 'play' in the steering wheel/column which is a bit of a worry as I can't see how I could fix that so easily. Binding front offside brake(the brakes have just been renewed on front) a 'leak on the offside rear pipe to flexible pipe union (that isn't a leak it rust converter which I forgot to wipe off) and a few advisers to work through (think that's it)

    Question..Do Freelander 1's have an issue with the steering rack/column/wheel regards 'play' movement? Never noticed it but now it's 'pointed out' cannot be unseen. Anyone have any experience of something similar?

    The body work repairs I will do, need the practice and don't mind doing it.

    Will be replacing the fuel tank cradle as it was mentioned as an advisory but that will be done later in the summer.

    Many thanks for reading and 'listening' to my 'woes'...in practice it just means I will be fixing this myself 9if I can) and my daughter won't have her car for another week or so (away driving from tonight)

    Cheers.

    Malcolm
     
  2. saxavordian

    saxavordian Well-Known Member

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  3. guineafowl21

    guineafowl21 Well-Known Member

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    Unusual for FLs, but you’re in Scotland, so I guess it’s that spray of salt and grit that seems designed to pick off the older cars one by one. If there’s rust there, it might be elsewhere so have a check around and consider some Waxoyl or similar (after welding ;)).
    Rock the steering wheel and find out which joint is sloppy - you might find the part on Paddocks or similar, or maybe a scrapyard - 1stchoice.co.uk is worth a look.
    Strip down the caliper and check the slides are lubricated with silicone grease. Wire brush and coat pad contact points with copper grease. If no good, renew calipers. I’ve fitted Britpart ones and they have been fine.
    EDIT: With the caliper off, press the brake pedal down a couple of times to push the piston out a bit, squirt some silicone spray under the boot, then push it back in. Repeat. Got me two more MOTs worth of use out of mine.
    Wipe off!
     
  4. MollyNomad

    MollyNomad Well-Known Member

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    Sound advice...Yes the brakes will need a bit of a 'tweek' although when I replaced the discs and pads I removed the carriers and cleaned them to a very high standard, contact points lubed etc, silicone grease on the cleaned slider pins And new stainless slider furniture...I would go with the piston dragging so will concentrate on that after a quick check of everything mentioned above ...Cheers for taking the time out to comment much appreciated ...
     
  5. MollyNomad

    MollyNomad Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice, will be 'on it' in a few minutes after I finish my cup of tea...have ordered some sheet steel as I don't have any 'for my sins'...Although I live in Scotland it was living in Yorkshire before I bought it.. I think the previous owner had been to a beach some time in his ownership but my son and I are 'pencilled in' to rectify any surface corrosion issues in a 4 day 'Rust blast'...and a waxy type product will, be part of that (and the immediate repair needed)...Thanks again....
     
  6. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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  7. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I would look under the plastic, so any horrors can be rectified before getting worse!
     
    Swann36 likes this.
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