Very strange transmission issue

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Rob5464

New Member
Posts
30
Starting from the beginning, I was driving down the road and all of a sudden I was getting an aggressive knocking on the front end. It is hard to explain more than that as I had music on fairly loud at the time.

I immediately pulled into a car park to inspect. Nothing to be seen, I slowly maneuvered in the carpark. It was clunking and banging, immediately getting worse until transmission started trying to jam up. It felt like it was on the front axle. with a bit of revs I could force it to move and it would turn briefly before trying to jam again. I let it roll out of gear and the same thing happened.

Conveniently I was in a pub car park so I sat and had an expensive pint while I waited for the RAC. He suspected it was the front diff, so did I. When he winched me onto the wagon the wheels were jamming again even when out of gear. He had to use some sliders under the front wheels to get it up the ramp.

So I bought a diff and set about stripping the axle down. Only to find there was no damage at all to the diff. It turned as it should and no marks on the teeth. No metal shavings to be found either.

Oh dear, gear/transfer box I thought. I took the rear prop off and ran the engine through all gears and everything seemed in order.

I put the front prop on and drove it up and down the street with no problems to report. I then put the rear prop back on; took it for a run and it seems perfectly fine.

Although I am happy; I don't think this is the end of it. What is everyones thoughts?
 
That did cross my mind. How could I rectify the problem and know for sure if its still locked up or not?
 
Ah I get it. I suppose if I find the VCU has had it. I can remove a prop for now until I source one. Come to think if it; it might be the reason why it didn't have a front prop when I bought it.
 
Ah I get it. I suppose if I find the VCU has had it. I can remove a prop for now until I source one. Come to think if it; it might be the reason why it didn't have a front prop when I bought it.

I would think that is a very sound theory. So why did you not check VC then whilst prop was off. It's much easier to check with prop off.
 
I didn't think of it at the time. I was rushing to get it back together. It wasn't a complete waste of effort changing the diff because at least I found out it didn't have any oil in it on the count of the half shaft seals being shagged. It should only be a small job changing them now seen as its all been broken apart and copper greased up.
 
Back again with the same issue! Another painfully long recovery from the RAC. Its not the VC though; wish it was. But I have no idea.

The front prop is off. Yes the back wheels have drive and spin free. The front wheels however are jammed up again. If I try to drive it can move forward slightly then when I dip the clutch is bounces back like a spring.

Here is the strange bit; with both front wheels off the ground, I can turn ether wheel freely and the other wheel spins in the opposite direction (as it should). However if ether wheel is on the ground the other one will not turn in ether direction. Even with the help of a breaker bar on one of the wheel nuts.

Same problem as last time. Different diff.
 
Plan of action for tomorrow.

Try turn the diff flange with a bar and socket.
If it doesn't turn pull both hub assemblies off and pull shafts out.
Try turn again. I believe it will but if it doesn't the diff is ####ed or something in the case.
If it turns slot one shaft in. If it turns slot the other shaft in.
If they still turn then bolt a carrier back in. If it still turns bolt the other carrier in.

Thats every component checked systematically. If it all works once its back together then its witchcraft.
 
Plan of action for tomorrow.

Try turn the diff flange with a bar and socket.
If it doesn't turn pull both hub assemblies off and pull shafts out.
Try turn again. I believe it will but if it doesn't the diff is ####ed or something in the case.
If it turns slot one shaft in. If it turns slot the other shaft in.
If they still turn then bolt a carrier back in. If it still turns bolt the other carrier in.

Thats every component checked systematically. If it all works once its back together then its witchcraft.
Might not prove anything, better to take the diff out and check it and while you are at it check the VCU.
 
How stiff should the front output shaft be to turn?

I found the issue, stripped the axle down and pulled the shafts free. Still couldn't turn the flange. Pinion bearing. Removing the diff confirmed this.
 
How stiff should the front output shaft be to turn?

I found the issue, stripped the axle down and pulled the shafts free. Still couldn't turn the flange. Pinion bearing. Removing the diff confirmed this.
The exact torque required is in RAVE, but as long as you can turn it it should be OK.
 
How stiff should the front output shaft be to turn?

I found the issue, stripped the axle down and pulled the shafts free. Still couldn't turn the flange. Pinion bearing. Removing the diff confirmed this.

Should have some resistance but be easily turnable by hand.
 
Back
Top