Top hat liner block

youd need to take 0.1" off the guides and fit double springs to be on the safe side.

using the 4.0L pistons inplace of the 4.6 will increase compression - its a fair common practice.

if you were thinking about fitting a cam that has more than 0.44" of lift then consider the viper stump puller cam.

dove said:

I am building a 4.6 .With the piper 285 cam did you have to machine valve guides,change springs etc?I also run on LPG,and have read that you can run higher compression when on gas ,makes for a more efficient burn?in my garage i have a set of 4.0 pistons .i read on turners site you can use these with 4.6 crank to raise compression to 9.75.Has anyone done this mod with a high lift cam?and did you have to get pistons machined so nothing hit?my heads have previously been skimmed already due to an overheat,14 thou I think,when the top hats are done the block decks will also be refaced I presume,so again bringing everything closer.thanks for all the replys

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If running with the 4.0 pistons .would the pistons need to have valve cutouts for running the high lift cam?the piper 285 has just over 11 mm lift,think I am going to go with this cam and see what it turns out like.do I also need to use the 4.0 conrods,trying to get everything I am going to need ready before I pull the engine,shells,rings,oil pump,lifters,gaskets,seals,cam,timing gears,chain,anything else you guys reckon I might need?

Hi, i could supply you a service exchange top hat lined cylinder block for £750 + vat and Carriage.
Drop me a line or call me on 01691 773222 or 07967484395.
Regards Mark.

Mark - suggest yu remove yo tel numbers unless yu want to get spammed - members on here can PM yu.

My d2 is running a 10.25-1 compression fully lightened and ballanced bottom end pocket pistons and a piper 285 cam and super size valves and fully ported heads and manifolds and headman headers and running a stock Thor injection system averaging 25 mpg stupid power from idle even pulls away in third gear from idle, 1st gear is redundant most of the time drive like a auto round town leave it in third gear.
Just removed the LPG as it only does 17 mpg
As for the valve guide issue poah is on about mine is on billet bronze guides not sure even piper do not accept there is an issue so please elaborate

because you are likely to get coil bind, bounce and resonance when fitting cams of higher lift than standard.

Couple of things to add - make sure block is cross bolted!

ARP studs are not really needed, but for the sake of a few quid more why not..

You DEFFO need to machine heads for Double valve Springs - need to make seats to suit - shortening guides and bulleting is a good idea - mainly for flow.

Other thing to consider is to fully match inlet manifold to heads.

I took my newly converted carb fo EFI for a spin to day and the difference is un-believable. I put this down to matched manifold and not so much carb/efi swap...

I had bits from ACR and hve been excellent....

Also V8 developments have done an amazing job of a block.

Oh and balance everthing! Pistons, rods, Cranks and get everthing matched!

On heads and inlets make sure inlet volumes are matched as well!

POAH said:

because you are likely to get coil bind, bounce and resonance when fitting cams of higher lift than standard.

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that does not make sense!
as the valve is still the same length and goes though a slightly longer travel but still clears the valve stem seal so cannot see how your argument is sound?

vougese39 said:

what you have to consider here is bodging or doing on the cheap aint worth it!
my blocks are supplied with new core plugs top hat linners and new cam bearings not many do that in the blocks!
i would be inclined to also change the rad,state,pump and heater o rings.
and when you put it back together irontite it too

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Which Irontite do you use, the all weather seal or the ceramic seal?

we use the ceramic seal and it is done in the machine shop to produce a more even coverage of the water ways rather than add a bottle to the whole cooling system but have and will do both systems

vougese39 said:

that does not make sense!
as the valve is still the same length and goes though a slightly longer travel but still clears the valve stem seal so cannot see how your argument is sound?

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valve bounce is where the valve spring tension is insufficient to keep the valve following the cam at its apex which is what happened when you use more lift.

Thought you would know these things being an engine builder

Been looking up lrdirect for the other parts I require for my rebuild,seem ok for prices,there are a lot of choices on parts from different makers,britpart,bearmach,genuine land rover,but I also saw you get britpart oe,or bearmach oe,so is this the same product just not in a land rover box?some of the prices are a big difference ie oe cam sprocket supplied by britpart was £10.76 but land rover is about £160, surely can't be the same product:confused

oe is the same product in different box britpart bearmach lr will get them from same place,

sorry to put a spanner in the works if you have already started but I want to get my 2 pence worth in

I dont know how much all this will cost you, 3k? more? even when doing most if it yourself.

I would spend £500 on a good lexus or bmw v8 and the rest making it fit and getting a good auto electrican to wire it in. You will have 300hp + all day long and now worries about cracked blocks slipped liners etc. the economy would be good too.

I think a few of the guys on this thread who have spent many pennies on the rv8 builds now agree in principle, its just a question of having the balls to make a start on it from day one.

I understand of course you may just want to rebuild a v8 for the fun of it and in that case I agree it would be nice

the thing with the RV8 is that is its pretty simple compared to the more modern engines. BMW V8s suffer from problems too and they don't sound anything like the rover lol

POAH said:

the thing with the RV8 is that is its pretty simple compared to the more modern engines. BMW V8s suffer from problems too and they don't sound anything like the rover lol

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This is very true.

You cant hot rod a modern engine, it just isn't the same!!

Not started yet,but will stick with the rover engine ,quite cheap for parts,and simple to work on.i estimate it's going to cost around 2k doing the work myself,and using original equipment parts for rebuild,with exception of the cam

POAH said:

valve bounce is where the valve spring tension is insufficient to keep the valve following the cam at its apex which is what happened when you use more lift.

Thought you would know these things being an engine builder

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I understand that still can't see how one thou of the guide will cure it! Your statement against piper cams
As it is the spring that is not strong enough

POAH said:

the thing with the RV8 is that is its pretty simple compared to the more modern engines. BMW V8s suffer from problems too and they don't sound anything like the rover lol

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simple but crap, 4.0 bmw didnt have any probs- it was the 4.4 that LR decided to use that did lol- well at least they are consistant.

Point was really you dont need to hot rod the modern engines, stainless headers are always nice but they come as standerd on the 4.0

They sound better with a straight through exhaust its just not many modern cars that come with one.

I will be impressed if you get many more horses than standard and 100k miles from your 2k rebuild. you wont be getting a reliable 300 hp for sure.

I do appreciate the rv8, dont get me wrong- I still have one and not long ago I had 3 but its just not worth pouring money in to. i think it was pornstarmax and or poah that agreed that in hindsight on here recently.