TD5 rough running

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My own suspicion now is that you may have a gas leak from a copper washer at an injector tip.

If this is the problem, it will not get better.

What happens is that gas gets into the fuel rail from the leaking injector and screws up the fuel supply into all the injectors nearer the front of the engine than the affected one. Misfire.

If you cannot find any other cause, have a go at this. It is a DIY job with care,

CharlesY
Just read these posts and would agree with you on this one
 
well it justs gets worse!! used the car yesterday afternoon, parked it up, went out this morning and its leaked water out of the expansion tank from the overflow pipe. took the cap off and it was still pressurised. water flowed out the top of the tank. it does use a little water and have to top it up approx once a month with a couple of pints, but I had put this down to a leak in the heater matrix (can be heard gargling for about 1min after starting)

Think i'm going to have to get it over to the local LR garage and let them have a look. wondering if its the head gasket, although no water/oil mix and it doesnt overheat
 
well it justs gets worse!! used the car yesterday afternoon, parked it up, went out this morning and its leaked water out of the expansion tank from the overflow pipe. took the cap off and it was still pressurised. water flowed out the top of the tank. it does use a little water and have to top it up approx once a month with a couple of pints, but I had put this down to a leak in the heater matrix (can be heard gargling for about 1min after starting)

Think i'm going to have to get it over to the local LR garage and let them have a look. wondering if its the head gasket, although no water/oil mix and it doesnt overheat

Leaking head gasket may NOT cause any signs of oil in the coolant, nor coolant in the oil. You may just have a simple small GAS leak from a cylinder into a water-passage.

Take off the coolant header tank cap, and get someone to start the engine while you keep an eye on the coolant in the header tank.

It should swirl about some, but it really should NOT be bubbling AT ALL.

If it is clearly bubbling away, suspect head gasket leaking gas into the coolant. Full HG failure would probably be sooner rather than later.

If you get it done make sure they fit STEEL head location dowels in place of those ridiculous plastic ones.

CharlesY
 
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will do that when the wife gets back from the shops!

just had another look in header tank and the coolant is full of bubbles and slightly foamy on the surface. what i have found is tiny specks of what looks like copper on the cap and on my finger when dipped:eek:
 
will do that when the wife gets back from the shops!

just had another look in header tank and the coolant is full of bubbles and slightly foamy on the surface. what i have found is tiny specks of what looks like copper on the cap and on my finger when dipped:eek:


It does begin to look as if the head gasket is the problem.

If it bubbles away especially when you rev it up a bit ......

Oh Dear ....

CharlesY
 
Oh Dear ....

CharlesY

I'm taking it that it's going to be expensive?!:(

.....but if it solves the problem (assuming that a small gas to water leak will reduce the compression on effected cylinders) it will be worth it just to have it driving great again.

Forgot to say that i drove a mates 03 TD5 last weekend and that was a joy to drive. smooth and quiet. his is standard, and the performance was the same as mine with a re-maped ecu.
 
Garage have phoned today. Geadgasket gone. £700 to fix including crack/pressure testing of head, new injector seals, new exhaust manifold and oil/filter change etc
 
Garage have phoned today. Geadgasket gone. £700 to fix including crack/pressure testing of head, new injector seals, new exhaust manifold and oil/filter change etc

Let's all hope that sorts it out.

Would you let me know as I have some similar symptoms and am looking a solution.

Cheers
Dave
 
Will do. They start work on it Monday so hopefully will get it back towards the end of next week


Thanks for that, I hope yours gets sorted out.

I've just been pricing up the bits in case I need to do mine: head gasket £25, head gasket kit (ie all the other bits) £50.

So, if mine is also a headgasket replacement job, I'll have to do it myself. Life is a learning opportunity, so they say :D:eek::D

Cheers
Dave
 
Head gasket done (wallet £800 lighter!) and still running the same! not sure if its worth worring about now as most of the mechanics are new!
 
there is def something not right between 2300-2500rpm. causes a bad vibration through the whole car. when looking at the engine, it shakes from side to side, very quickly, almost like a misfire but clears when more revs are applied. it does seem down on power but that could be down to me now being used to the ecu upgrade.

The only thing left is the fuel pump, but i'd of thought that it would have got worse as more revs were allpied
 
noticed on the drive into work this morning, the vibration gets worse once the t/c has locked in (once locked, the car is very sensitive to throttle inputs and when using cruise control and can kangeroo badly). is it worth checking the box fluid and is there an inspection plate for having a look at the TC?
 
Think i might have found the problem!

On the drive home tonight, reached the point where the TC locks up (in D), put my foot down and there was about 300-400rpm of slip. Pulled the stick back to 3rd while going through a village, got out the other side and increased speed untill the TC locked up. Noticed that the vibration through 2300-2500rpm was reduced. Then i put my foot down....and the thing took off like a rocket (no TC slip, apeared to be a 1:1 drive through the gearbox). Had to back off as the sudden gain in speed frightened me!! Back into D, vibration is worse and performace had gone (even with TC locked).

Now the question is

1) is the gearbox buggered or
2) is just the TC buggered
3) would it be sorted by changing the box fluid? (fingers crossed!!)
 
Given up with the gear box issue as it's not done it since.

Have been looking at nanocom outputs and have noticed that i'm getting readings for a 3 track throttle. I thought all pre 2002 TD5's had a 2 track throttle? Also, it thinks it's in low range when it's high. How can this be sorted?
 
OK Im no expert but I had similar problems on my TD5.

My story in short was,

Car overheated and went into limp home mode
head gasket gone, this was replaced
then no power at all many weeks at Inde garage on and off

Took it somewhere else another inde, and in about an hour he was on the phone saying the injectors were fooooked.

Apparantly (as i say im no expert) the plastic/rubber end distorts at high heat and restricts flow.

These were replaced luckily with second hand recon ones.

Boy oh boy was it different, I reckon I had never had full power since getting it two years ealier.

All the symptoms you have described are so close to my troubles, I didn't read the full post but have you replaced Injectors?
 
No, injectors are still the same old ones! going to replace the car in the next couple of months for a nice 03 plate (from a mate so i know it runs fine!!)

Just would be interested in finding out whats up with my one as it's been bugging me for the lasst couple of years!
 
Yes indeed, but I think it is made up of several pieces all bonded together with rubbery stuff like engine mountings.

I THINK there is the inner hub piece with the pulley bolt through it, then a rubbery bonded goo ring round that, then the grooved pulley bonded onto the rubbery goo ring, and then the damper ring bolted to the hub inside the grooved pulley. I suspect the outer ring is NOT bolted TO the grooved pulley, but is bolted THROUGH it. If that is so, perhaps the wobbling of the outer ring is making the three bolts knock on the pulley and cause the buzzing and vibration? This might happen five times per revolution of the engine, or ten - who knows?

Looks like you may have a rubbery softening syndrome here.

If it was mine I would Tippex the bits, then take out the three bolts and remove the Damper ring. Replace the three bolts, with packing washers if need be, if you think they are necessary.

Go for a drive. The ring off won't cause any bother even in a decent run. It might in 100,000 miles running without it. It is there in theory to reduce the risk of fatigue failure of the crankshaft. The rubbery goo lets outer ring of the pulley soak up (damp out) the rotational pulses of the front end of the crankshaft.

Only thing I can suggest right now, and if it was mine I would try it, not least because it's so easy to do it.

CharlesY


Hi Charles,

In relation to your comment highlighted in red above. The tv damper broke clean off my crankshaft pulley (rubbery bit with metal disc) at the three lugs. Can I still drive the car like this as mentioned above?

Regards
 
Hi Charles,

In relation to your comment highlighted in red above. The tv damper broke clean off my crankshaft pulley (rubbery bit with metal disc) at the three lugs. Can I still drive the car like this as mentioned above?

Regards


Yes, as long as no damage has taken place when the thing came off and there are no loose bits hanging on that might let go. I assume the three lugs you mention are the lugs of the damper ring, and that the main part of the pulley itself is undamaged.

Make sure the three bolts are fitted and tight, or take them out and store them somewhere safe. The torque is about 80Nm or 60 lbf.ft.

You should consider replacing the ring sometime. It is there to fulfil a purpose, but that may be as much in theory as in practical effect. In the short to medium term it won't be a problem to leave it off.

Keep in mind the crankshaft pulley centre bolt is VERY tight, 455Nm / 340lbf.ft.
 
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