TD5 rough running

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
just worked out how to get the numbers out of nanocom!

Accel:

Road speed = 44
Engine speed = 2391
Idle speed err. = 1495
Battery voltage = 14.349001
Pot trottle 1 = 1.788000
Pot trottle 2 = 3.297000
Pot trottle 3 = 3.443000
Pot supply = 5.037000
Ambient pressure = 100.959998
Air flow = 438.500007
Air inlet temp. = 19.700000
Air inlet press. = 191.729996
Coolant temp. = 75.000001
Fuel temp. = 52.700001
EGR modulator = 0.000000
EGR inlet = 22.589999
Turbo Wastegate = 22.589999
Power balance 1 = -3
Power balance 2 = 5
Power balance 3 = 2
Power balance 4 = -3
Power balance 5 = -1

Decel:

Road speed = 47
Engine speed = 812
Idle speed err. = 26
Battery voltage = 14.349001
Pot trottle 1 = 0.716000
Pot trottle 2 = 4.369000
Pot trottle 3 = 0.000000
Pot supply = 5.037000
Ambient pressure = 102.209998
Air flow = 62.800001
Air inlet temp. = 18.500000
Air inlet press. = 101.979998
Coolant temp. = 64.700001
Fuel temp. = 46.300001
EGR modulator = 0.000000
EGR inlet = 0.000000
Turbo Wastegate = 0.000000
Power balance 1 = 6
Power balance 2 = 11
Power balance 3 = -6
Power balance 4 = -6
Power balance 5 = -11

Just looking at the pot values, shouldnt the value of the 3 pots = pot supply?


how long had the vehicle been running for when you took those readings?

Both the readings have low coolant temp. If could be possible it hadn't warmed up fully but it could also be possible that either your viscous fan has seized or your thermostat is jamming open.
 
I'm doing my best to get it!



The engine (any engine) can do this for two reasons:

1 there is something rotating or reciprocating which physically is or goes out of balance, and at some particular speed (the first harmonic) it really goes wild and starts lashing about. At TWICE that speed you might notice it again, but probably not so badly.

2. the engine is misfiring somehow, and making you feel the roughness.

Let's rule out 2 meantime, because you say it's actually running quite well.

Back to 1.

Start the engine, and sitting there parked in neutral, very slowly bring the engine speed up towards the bad range. It either will or won't set the vibrations going. If it does on what is very light throttle, you can be practically sure some rotating component is off-balance - like a two-part silly-arse flywheel for instance, or a crankshaft pulley-damper. If it was mine, I would hunt down rotating parts first. Some quite small part (like an alternator) could make a quite big vibration if it went right out of balance.

Next, if it vibrates when you run the revs up, take off the belt and try again. If it now doesn't vibrate, one of the things the belt drives is the likely culprit.

It's a bit of a guessing game.

If you cannot make it do this when the car is sitting parked, drive it again, and see if it happens at those revs in the gears, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, or if it only happens at a certain road speed. You see where we're heading? If it happens in most of the gears it's the engine. If it happens only at a certain road speed it's probably transmission or drive-train or hubs related.

Let's keep on the case because I want your Novacom thing.

I would pay for it ....

CharlesY


Tried that. vibration starts at 2000rpm on very light throttle and stays till 2500rpm. its there on overrun through the same rev range. bit concerned about running it up without the belt on!
 
Tried that. vibration starts at 2000rpm on very light throttle and stays till 2500rpm. its there on overrun through the same rev range. bit concerned about running it up without the belt on!

Well, what is rotating when the engine is running with the belt off?

Crankshaft, front crank pulley, flywheel (probably a dual-mass one), camshaft (too light to cause trouble) and then 5 rods and pistons jumping up and down.

In Neutral the entire clutch is rotating at engine speed, and the gearbox input shaft, and the laygear.

Something is out of balance, or something is loose. and there aren't all that many possibilities.

The loose something could be almost anything with a bit of flexibility in it. Such things can pick up a sympathetic vibration at a certain frequency (engine speed) and build up quite strongly. Even a section of plastic fan cowling, could do that - just about anything that can flapm a tiny bit.

Keep hunting, but worry about that flywheel. they do cause trouble.

CharlesY
 
OK .... you may need to try this, sooner or later.

The Torque converter is driven by a flat Flex-plate, and the TC is simply bolted to the flexplate, which Rave calls the intermediate plate, and converter drive plate.

These plates are quite thin and can break up. I changed one in a slitty last year. Also, the converter is held on by only THREE small set-screws, and it is possible to get at these to check them from the front right side of the engine. looking back, opposite side to the starter, just above sump gasket level. But it sure won't be easy. So don't do this yet unless you have a look and find it easy to get at! Just be aware the thing can go wrong. The good news is I have never heard of a Disco doing it.

I think the next stages are to compare your engine running noises with another Disco.


Take off the top engine cover (three screws needing a 13mm spaniard).
Try again on the road.

It's a sore one!

CharlesY
 
OK, sounds like a job for the weekend!. Going to put the belt back on tonight and go round everything its running as it sounds 200% better without the belt on. Think the PAS pump is the source of the noise due to the amount of play in it. I will check the engine mounts too just to rule them out. Take it it's a case of jacking up the engine to take the weight off the mount?
 
have you got plenty of fluid in the PAS reservoir?

don't got for the TC drive plate yet. the problem is surely at the front of the engine, and I think you are close to finding it.

CharlesY
 
it's on the min mark, but i did notice that the fluid appears to be bubbling in there, so was wondering if the PAS system needs bleeding or its a sign that the pumps knackered?
 
it's on the min mark, but i did notice that the fluid appears to be bubbling in there, so was wondering if the PAS system needs bleeding or its a sign that the pumps knackered?

Hmmmm..... I don't think that's the problem, as PAS fluid does slosh around, but why not top it up and bleed it anyway?

Worth trying.

CharlesY
 
does your rattle sound through the cabin when you are driving like a buzzing from the dashboard where you cant quite figure out where abouts its coming from, but with little difference in engine performance.

if so the clue is in post #1, I win the nanocom and sell it to Charlsey..!
 
does your rattle sound through the cabin when you are driving like a buzzing from the dashboard where you cant quite figure out where abouts its coming from, but with little difference in engine performance.

if so the clue is in post #1, I win the nanocom and sell it to Charlsey..!


OK OK .... so tell the man ... is the clue in this bit from Post #1?
"My gut feeling is that it's something electrical as some days it's worse than others. "

Maybe the radio is on a bad station!

How much for the Nanocom then? I want one.

I have a brand new ScanGauge to trade - it does every blooming car EXCEPT my Disco 2.

CharlesY
 
CharlesY.

One day while driving my Disco down the M1 my brother in law was in the market to buy a 4x4 and wanted a drive... so I let him.

he decked the throttle, he wanted to see what it was made of and hit about 95 in the 'ol girl till i told him to back it off!

there then became this buzzing which seemed to come from the dash at about the same revs as described here...

there the buzzing lay for over a year or so, it never went away it would do my head in and the head of the dorris as we would try to trace the buzzing when driving. The buzzing would be bad under load but less to nothing on overrun. I thought it was an engine mount, but it would happen for definate once the engine was at a good running temperature but less so when around town luke warm so ruled that out...

I even took the Instrument pack out as it seemed to come from there, tightened all the screws and put it back... no joy!

I just got the TD5 back from the doctor with a new H/G.

I am now convinced that the buzzing was a result of a shift in the head due to these stupid plastic dowels at the time when he decked it, which then took a year or so to materialise into a H/G failure.

It now does not buzz at all... so I'm happy.

Do I win a nanocom now?
If I do, you can have it mate!

Is it likely that this TD5 is an early model pre 2002 engine with the plastic dowels and that his M25 drive shifted the head???

Who Knows?? I personally wouldnt thow a grand at it to test that theory!

Rgds
 
Gosh ...... what a horrible scenario.

I Googled Nanocom. Over £200 with the VAT ...
Bummer that my Scangauge won't work in Disco 2.

CharlesY
 
I wonder if Mr Holden would admit to a bit of a heavy foot on his M25 drive and that his engine falls into the early TD5 catagory?

What you really need is a copy of 'Testbook' and an old laptop.
If only i could get my hands on a copy... Anyone got one???
 
It more than a buzz tho. The vibration can be felt throught the car

and no, no heavy right foot! had only had the disco about a week so was still getting used to it.
 
Back
Top