Td4 EGR pipe snapped

Hi all. Didn't think it would be long before I had to ask a question having just got myself a FL! Have introduced myself in the correct forum so I hope its OK to post this question now.

Replaced the EGR with the kit from egr-delete with no dramas but after two days - bang - the flexi pipe snapped and the FL started running like a sick pig. Luckily I managed to bodge a repair at the roadside using the remaining bit of pipe and some aluminum tape which got me home.

In the kit I got it had a blanking plate for the exhaust manifold but I didn't fit this initially. My question is, obviously now I have to blank the pipe or remove it completely and blank at the manifold - has anyone done this or is there another method to stop me gassing myself when I go down the shops? I have trawled the forums but not seen many posts regarding the manifold blanking plate fitting.

Cheers in advance.

Rich

Get a flexi pipe off a breakers or ebay and put it back on. Then if you need to put the EGR back on for any reason it'll be a 2 minute job.
It's fiddly to get to the base of the flexibility pipe, but quite an easy job overall.
Mike

Thanks Mike

I thought you had to practically dismantle the engine to get it off! I will take a closer look tomorrow.

Cheers.

Rich

Well I took a close look at the EGR pipe today and it seems to me it is going to be really difficult to get to the exhaust manifold without following the method in the Haynes bible or the RAVE manual which involves removing cam cover, draining coolant etc.

Has anybody on here had to get to the exhaust manifold and used an easier method (he asks hopefully) ?

Cheers.

Rich

The flexy egr pipe is a pain to change. The EGR bypass should have a stem and blanking disk fitted that the pipe clips to to avoid it breaking. There appears to be a few incorrect EGR bypass kits about.

Looks like you'll have your work cut out to fix it. I'd be getting the correct EGR bypass kit to avoid future failure

I just looked up the kit the OP is talking about and it looks OK to me
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...623231?hash=item23494cc4bf:g:aikAAOSwl-FXM3lt
Is there something missing here?

Unless he used this one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...837801?hash=item259e7dd9a9:g:9r8AAOSwTapV6dXk

Unless he used this one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...837801?hash=item259e7dd9a9:g:9r8AAOSwTapV6dXk

Click to expand...

bit strange offering those 2 for the td4 ..

the one in the quoted link .. i.e. with the separate blanking plate part
looks to be possibly for a different LR engine .. going by some prev. posts on Landy.Z.

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Hi All

Yeah I got the second one in Alibro's post - the one without the stem. Eek, looks like I may have bought the wrong bit, hence the remaining flexipipe shook itself to bits!
I was led to believe by the seller that this was the "premium" way to blank the EGR. Although I did not realize that I "had" to blank the exhaust manifold at the same time, which seemed unnecessary - although definitely necessary now as me flexipipe is shot!

Wasn't this difficult on me old Disco I seem to remember.

Looks like a day with the spanners then...

Cheers again.

RichardNR said:

Well I took a close look at the EGR pipe today and it seems to me it is going to be really difficult to get to the exhaust manifold without following the method in the Haynes bible or the RAVE manual which involves removing cam cover, draining coolant etc.

Has anybody on here had to get to the exhaust manifold and used an easier method (he asks hopefully) ?

Cheers.

Rich

Click to expand...

I know this is an old post, but for anyone with the same question I did change mine recently and did so without removing the cam cover / draining coolant etc.
Its fiddly as hell, and you have to do it by feel, but with the manifold off you can get to the 2 bolts with a socket set - you'll need an elbow and various lengths of extension but you can get the socket handle on from above for the top bolt and down near where the gear selector goes into the gearbox for the lower bolt. The lower bolt I could only get a couple of clicks of rotation on but it was enough to do the job. Also note they were Torx bolts (T45), just so you don't get caught out!
Like I said, not easy, but doable, even with my ape-like hands!