Freelander 1 TD4 2.0 Diesel Cut Out & No Start

Apologies in advance for the lengthy description on this one but it comes after a lot of head scratching.
I have my daughter's 2005 MK1 Freelander, 2.0 Diesel (BMW engine).
The car started to randomly cut out a few months ago, the cut out's are completely random, cold hot, load no load, no pattern. as the fault is too dangerous I gave her my car and booked it into a highly recommended independent Land rover specialist in the Newcastle upon Tyne area.
Despite their efforts, and discussions with them regarding the dreaded 'throwing parts at it' scenario. Known areas were checked, fuse box corrosion etc, plus the fuel cut off had been bypassed, probably due to the previous owners efforts to trace the same fault. It came back with the instruction to run it and see what happens, which we did, and it cut out. It starts again straight away (with the key), and we did form the opinion it cuts out more under load, for example climbing a hill, however we don't trust it anywhere to be honest.
We did as instructed and took it back, the garage sent it to a reputable auto electricians who did not experience the fault, but changed some relays etc. Again we tested it, and after a day or two, the fault appeared again.
As the independent specialists and the auto electricians gave up, my son in law and I had no option but to try and sort this out ourselves.
We swapped some key components known for causing cut outs, the ignition switch and the crank sensor, we ran it after each component change to make sure it was working correctly. However, and here's the strange bit...
We fitted a replacement crank sensor (used but working), and it wouldn't start,
We put the old original one in, and it ran.
We then bought a replacement crank sensor, new this time but not original Spec, fitted it today, no start !!
We put the original back in and now it wont start with that one either!
Thinking about it now, and what to do next, we can only think of obtaining a genuine OEM new crank sensor and fitting that.
So in summary, as soon as the crank sensor was swapped, it will no longer run?
Another annoying aspect of this is an ordinary code reader won't work, I am not familiar with the brand as my experience is with VAG cars and Fords. A Hawkeye code reader looks to be the best way to move this forward, but they are very expensive, too costly for a one off fix.
Advice from those in the know would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance

It sounds like a dodgy connection to me, maybe a broken wire in the loom. I've never replaced a loom in a Freelander but it might be worth checking out. Either that or a dodgy earth.
I'm sure more intelligent answers will be forthcoming soon but if you have managed to make the fault go from intermittent to permanent at least you now have a chance of finding it..

Thanks Alibro, I think the earthing was checked by the auto electrician's but it's worth a look. I would need to research the loom as if it still doesn't start with an original equipment crank sensor in it then that would look like a possibility.
I have come across a code reader called the icar soft i930, which according to the Ads, pulls up Freelander 1 fault codes. Providing it works, and it does what it says, being able to pull fault codes would probably be a big step forward.
Charging the battery all night for another try today, not helped because of freezing temperatures (for me or the car).

The I930 is a basic vehicle specific reader. It will read most FL1 codes, except for auto box codes. It will give you TD4 engine codes and live sensor data too.

Okay, latest update. Fitted a fully charged battery, it fires, runs for about 2 seconds then cuts out. Restarting does same again.
Obviously I'm even more sure now that a code reader will pick something up, but if cold start, run for a second or two then cut out pinpoints a specific component, feedback would be handy.

Cheers

Did you change the crank sensor?

It's worth checking the connection to the rail pressure sensor. Bad connections and corrosion there will cause stalling.

Cheers Nodge, will check that now. The crank sensor that's in it is the original back in, it worked (well ran) until we swapped it out as in my initial post. Will check the fuel rail pressure sensor as you say, plus might as well fit the new crank sensor again and see what happens. (What a nightmare )

Okay, last update for a while, here goes.

• Fitted the new, none branded camshaft sensor and it would start but not rev, soon as throttle is touched, cuts out. so that's a definite no go and going back. We just noticed an old thread saying don't touch one off a certain internet auction site, that's certainly good advice.
  
• We then fitted a genuine (used) Land Rover crankshaft sensor, it started, ran a bit rough. We discovered that if the bolt securing it is not nipped up, it run's rough or cuts out, so made sure it is nipped up and it runs fine.

So far so good, we road tested it and it's okay, so the next step is to run it over the next few days to see if the random cutting out is cured. Only a few days will tell that, as previously the cutting out was completely random.

A final thought crossed our minds, could the random cutting out be caused by the crank sensor securing bolt not being tight enough. When we initially removed the old one at the start of the process, it took almost no force to release the bolt. One thing for sure, the crank sensor is a crucial component which has a big effect on how it runs.

This sounds very very much like a faulty ignition switch to me.

The plastic encased switch at the end of the barrel often fails and will cut everything - like turning the key to off. Worth checking.

They often go randomly rather than just stop working all together.

I fitted a Ron Box to my last Freelander and got similar faults from a badly connected fuel pressure sensor.

Interesting, it has a Ron Box, we read on here change the ignition switch, so just swapped it.
We received great support from Ron at Ron Box, plus they have a couple of good guidance sheets which were very handy.
If the fault reoccurs, the next step is a new fuel pressure sensor, the terminals on it are clean. We didn't change the fuel pressure sensor this time around because among the comprehensive pile of receipts supplied with the vehicle, was one for supplying and fitting a new one not too long ago, and they are costly.
will 'bank' your responses guys and use them if it cuts out during forthcoming testing. Hopefully with the replacement ignition switch and crank sensor we may have sorted it, lets hope so, time will tell.

Okay, back again as promised with an update. We changed the crankshaft sensor for a genuine Land Rover part and road tested it yesterday. it cut out twice, as follows.

First, as we left our estate, low speed 2nd gear, gentle acceleration and it started chugging, a good description being it behaved rather like a petrol vehicle with a bad missfire, no power (kangaroo petrol), dipped the clutch, cut out. Turn key to restart, instantly fired and ran perffectly.
Second, after several miles driving, at 70 MPH on a dual carriageway it spluttered and was losing power. Dipped clutch, cut out, lifted clutch (still rolling at high speed), and it fired, again then running perfectly.

As you will have read in my earlier posts in this thread, the issue we are facing here is we are throwing parts at this vehicle, but attempting to do so in as most cost effective way as possible. The next parts on the way to try are:

• Fuel tank lift pump.
• High pressure fuel pump refurb kit. (Bosch).
• Replacement MAF, if the above two don't work we will have to remove the Ron Box and put it back to standard.

We have no issues with the Ron Box, which transformed the running, and it could be the Ron Box is showing up a fault elsewhere on the vehicle, however as readers will no doubt understand, this cutting out fault has to be identified and repaired.

If anyone has experienced this fault and can point us in the right direction, feedback would be appreciated. The problem has developed a little, in that it used to just cut out dead and re-start, now it splutters prior to cut out.

Thank you

initial thought:
fuel rail pressure sensor plug/harness
then .. fuel regulator o-rings
maf ? - can be tested by unplugging it
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Thanks for the info, it is close to our line of thought.......
1: Vehicle has had 2 x fuel pressure sensors (documented) in its life, 2009 & 2016, but there are no updates for an updated harness, any idea how we can check if an updated harness has been fitted?
2: We have ordered the fuel regulator repair kit and will try and get this done ASAP, but can this really cause the car to hesitate then stall from time to time?
3: Not sure if we can replace / disconnect the MAF as the car currently has synergy box (Ron Box) installed? Assuming we would have to disconnect the box and install an origional MAF.

As above, feedback is appreciated, we basically need a check list to work through until the fault is eliminated.

Don't know if it helps, but when my o-rings failed they did so relatively slowly. Started off with a slight leak but there was no effect on the running. Then one day they let go proper, diesel everywhere and a dead car.

The replacement rail sensor harness has a green plug at the sensor end. The original wiring and black plug will also be hanging about near by too.

Thank you, the rail sensor harness has a green plug, so must have been changed, good news but not a total surprise as there are a few receipts in the file where it looks very obvious the previous owner has been to a few places chasing this fault, this includes a check by a diesel specialist. We will still check the connections on the rail harness just to make sure the fuse box end is secure.

So, I've managed to take a bit of time out over the holiday period to try and get to the bottom of this issue so I thought I'd provide a quick update for everyone. In short, the vehicle continues to cut out at random although we have now observed a pattern of sorts. On several occasions now we've noticed a slight 'hesitation' which then disappears before it cuts out approx. 1-2 minutes later.

Having recently swapped out a few parts with no success I took the decision to remove the Synergy 2 Box and refit the original MAF to see if this made any difference. Once removed I took it for a run to refuel. As anticipated it was very sluggish under 2000 rpm and unfortunately it cut out on me when trying to overtake another vehicle on a dual carriageway. I didn't observe the 'hesitation' mentioned above on this occasion and the car was under heavy load as I was accelerating hard. I dipped the clutch and turned the ignition and all good again.

So that leaves me contemplating what to do next. As a reminder we've already tried the following to sort this (not in this order):

• 2 x visits to an independent Land Rover Specialist (fix undertaken to poorly connected inertia switch)
• 1 x visit to an auto electrician
• 1 x New Low Pressure Fuel Pump (rear wheel arch) & fuel filter
• 1 x Used OE Crank Sensor
• 1 x Used OE Ignition Switch
• 1 x New MBW PCV Valve Upgrade
• Full Service (Oil Filter, Oil, Air Filter, Turbo Vent Filter)

From reading many other posts it would also appear that previous owners have had work undertaken which may also be attributed to the fault. Details as follows:

• Upgraded fuel pressure sensor wiring harness
• New fuel pressure sensors (2009 & 2016)
• EGR delete kit
• Turbo Charger Solenoid Vacuum Boost Control Valve
• Various Injector replacement/refurbishment at different points in time (leak back test undertaken by diesel specialist in Oct 2016 - All OK at that time)

I'm a little lost what to try next so if anyone has any ideas I'll give them a go. In particular, feedback in consideration of the above would be appreciated in respect of the following:

1) I have acquired a used in tank fuel sender so could try that if anyone thinks that a fault with this could cause random cutting out?
2) When looking through all of the past receipts to provide this update I noticed a hand written note from the previous owner stating "remap - £150". Could a dodgy remap lead to issues like this? If so how could I get the ECU reset to standard?
3) I have noticed a slight hissing sound from the HP fuel pump in the engine bay when priming - does this sound normal or in need of further investigation?

Thanks again everyone!

1) Blocked sock filter? Worth a look.
2) I guess a remap would give a more consistent fault.
3) Normal.

I see earlier on you were fiddling with the crank sensor and getting inconsistent results - could it be corrosion causing poor seating? Could it be the crank sensor wiring itself?

I think it’s a special shielded cable. Try wiggling it with the engine running.

guineafowl21 said:

1) Blocked sock filter? Worth a look.
2) I guess a remap would give a more consistent fault.
3) Normal.

I see earlier on you were fiddling with the crank sensor and getting inconsistent results - could it be corrosion causing poor seating? Could it be the crank sensor wiring itself?

I think it’s a special shielded cable. Try wiggling it with the engine running.

Click to expand...

Thanks guineafowl21. Based on your comments......

1) I'll give the fuel sender a go and see if this brings about any improvement.
2) it's a good point you make re remap and the lack of consistency with the fault. We've contacted a main dealer as a backup just to get an idea of what they'd charge for setting back to standard if all else fails.
3) OK great we'll ignore the HP fuel pump for now.
4) Yes, we had an interesting time when changing out the crank sensor and had issues starting the vehicle when initially trying to reinstall the original sensor (before which time there were no obvious starting issues). I had to say that when we replaced the original with a genuine LR used crank sensor and it started no problem I really thought that we'd found the root of the problem. I'll try wiggling the wiring/contact as suggested and let you know the outcome.