Freelander 1 TD4 2.0 Diesel Cut Out & No Start

Have you checked the high pressure rail sensor for corrosion? I didn't see it mentioned above.

Nodge68 said:

Have you checked the high pressure rail sensor for corrosion? I didn't see it mentioned above.

Click to expand...

Thanks Nodge. Is this the same as the fuel pressure sensor where the green connector from the updated harness goes? If so it's had 2 new sensors in its life, the last of which was in 2016. I have removed the plug and sprayed contact cleaner on the sensor and connector?

I also think you can't rule out the 2nd hand sensors you've changed. I know you don't want to chuck money at it to eliminate a fault with unnecessary replacements but if the problems persist after replacing those parts with used ones (whether OE or not) you can't be sure if they are the problem or not.

kernowsvenski said:

I also think you can't rule out the 2nd hand sensors you've changed. I know you don't want to chuck money at it to eliminate a fault with unnecessary replacements but if the problems persist after replacing those parts with used ones (whether OE or not) you can't be sure if they are the problem or not.

Click to expand...

Yeh I know what you mean although the only second hand sensor we've introduced is the crank sensor. I was hoping that a failure of this part was quite unlikely so introducing a used OEM part would be be a good starting point. Does anyone know if issues with these sensors are common? If so then I could perhaps justify purchasing a new one?

And the ignition switch? They can cause issues.

I completely take your point re the used parts but I'd be struggling in terms of costs to justify new parts without having identified a definitive cause. Our logic is that at least by trying used parts I'm minimising costs and it is unlikely (although possible) that they will lead to the same faults as the parts that have been removed. Fingers crossed

Quick update....

I tried wiggling the crank sensor and wiring with the engine running and no issues so hopefully that rules out that.....

Also, i've just been out to expose the top of the in tank fuel pump but am taking a breather as it's freezing out there.

I noticed what looks like a few 'home repairs' as there is insulation tape round some of the wiring. I took a couple of pictures (below) to see if people think I should pay any attention to this wiring (green and black wires in black insulation tape & wires wrapped in blue insulation tape?)

How many wires do you have going to the in tank unit?

td4van said:

How many wires do you have going to the in tank unit?

Click to expand...

Just the 2, the green and the black.

Elsaetka said:

Just the 2, the green and the black.

Click to expand...

There's no pump in the tank if you have just 2 wires to the connector.

Thanks nodge. Is it still worth checking the filter on the bottom of the fuel sender anyway?

Elsaetka said:

Thanks nodge. Is it still worth checking the filter on the bottom of the fuel sender anyway?

Click to expand...

There isn't a filter in the sender housing as it's simply that, a sender housing.

Ah right no problem. The replacement unit I have with the same part number has a plastic sort of 'sieve' on the bottom. Can this not potentially get clogged?

Fuel pump will be in the wheel arch if you only have sender in the tank

Need to check that it’s functioning and the power and ground to it

The fuel pump in the rear arch is relatively new as we replaced it with a new pump and filter approx 4 months ago. Primes ok when ignition is turned so assume all is good there.

Elsaetka said:

The fuel pump in the rear arch is relatively new as we replaced it with a new pump and filter approx 4 months ago. Primes ok when ignition is turned so assume all is good there.

Click to expand...

Was it an OE pump and filter? There are some garbage cheap pumps out there and some cheap filters are virtually blocked from the box.

100% OE Pump / Filter Nodge, we have always keep away from none OE parts, we would at any time, but especially as we attempt to deal with this problem.

Well here goes another update for you all......

As some of you will be aware from another thread, I recently acquired a used Hawkeye to try and help us get to the bottom of this issues. Despite some issues in getting it to communicate with the vehicle I have eventually had some success. I pulled off approx. 6 fault codes first time around although I'm guessing that most if not all of these can be attributed to some of the work/changes we've made to the vehicle and/or simple things like a battery loosing charge due to the vehicle standing for prolonged periods. Either way, I thought it would be useful to share all of the codes alongside my thoughts based on what I know:

1) P1DF5 Immobilisation (EWS). Tamper Trail
No idea what this means or what could have caused it
2) P1470 Boost Press. Control. Negative Governor Deviation (Air Mass to High)
Again, no idea about this code or what could have caused it
3) P1E25 Reluctoring System. Dynamic Crankshaft Sensor Implausible
I suspect this is from the poor quality crank sensor we fitted after which the vehicle would not start
4) P1E00 CAN BUS. No Text Allocated for this Code
Again, no idea about this code or what could have caused it
5) P2800 Supply Voltage. Supply voltage too low
Probably the result of the vehicle being stood for long periods and the battery loosing charge

I'd be really interested to see if anyone things if any of the above codes could be linked to the cutting out issue? After reading and recording these codes I cleared them out and then ran/revved the vehicle for a few mins. The following code was then logged:

5) P20235 Boost Pressure Sensor. Plausibility with Atmospheric Pressure at Idle
It's probably worth noting that I have a receipt from the previous owner for a 'Turbo Charger Solenoid'
Vacuum Boost Control Valve (OEM) STC4 198, from October 2015!

Again if this could be attributed to the random cutting out issues it would be good to know? I did notice today that when sat and hard acceleration is applied the car seems to limit itself to 3-3.5k revs. Just in case this is related?

I've been doing some investigation into the fault codeas and in particular the P20235 Boost Pressure Sensor code as this came about after clearing all other fault codes. I'm assuming that the most likely suspects in respect of this code are therefore:

1) Boost control solenoid
2) Boost Pressure Sensor
3) Split/leaking vacuum hoses
4) Knackered turbo

1) As the boost control solenoid is relatively new I think this is unlikely?
2) perhaps a culprit and maybe worth getting a new one?
3) No obvious issues but have ordered new hoses to fit so it can be ruled out
4) Hopefuly not. I've tried moving the actuator by hand. It does move although it wasn't really easy. Also I'm not sure about the range of movement. I took a video which I'll try and upload shortly. It would be useful to know If this looks normal in terms of actuator/turbo function?

As promised I've uploaded a video of the turbo actuator moving in response to increased throttle/RPM. Does this appear to be functioning normally?