Tapping after oil change??

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hammoj28

hammoj28

Active Member
Posts
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Location
Awa in the hills a-chasing the deer
Did an oil change today, put in 20 50 oil and a new mann filter.

Started it up and it sounded sweet as a nut. Left it sitting in the shed. Went back, checked oil, then started it up and moved it out the shed, it started to tap.

Its now tapping pretty loudly and wont stop. Increases with revs.

Any idea what it could be?

Its a 3.9 btw on about 70k.

James
 
Is it a serpentine engine or the older type oil pump
Did you refill the oil filter first when refitting

Early type pre serpentine engine you should change the filter pretty fast so not to cause air lock in the pump
 
Its pre serpentine. I didn't actually fill the filter first, but took it off again and filled it.

Iv changed the oil a few times before and never had this problem. Dunno whether jus tto change the pump or try and prime it.

It has been a bit tappy on startup recently and did it a bit in the cold months too.
 
Strip and pack with vasaline and always pre fill the oil filter check the relief valve is clean and free and that the base plate is not too badly scored
 
If oil filter is on engine then its on the the bit the filter is on. It the filter is on a plate thats connected by 2 pipes its on the bit the pipes connect 2.

The priming bit is pretty simple - firstly whip on base plate and wack a GOOD bit of vasso in there betwen the pump cogs - its much more viscous than oil and gives a good old suck - to pull oil up. Put base plate back on

highly recommend you get one of these:

Special Range/Land Rover & TVR V8 Oil Pump Priming Tool on eBay (end time 01-May-11 10:58:11 BST)

now mark where the dizzy is (scribe a line from dizzy front pannel) then remove dizzy wack in tool and spin with a drill.

Now take off a rocker cover and see if you got oil from rockers.

Spin drill some more and your looking for oil drilling (not much, but dripping when spinning drill) if you got oil she is primmed, if not, more vasso and start agian

IMPORTANT,

After drill, the lifers will be properly pumped up, be sure to remove dizzy ht lead, and turn over for a 20 seconds on starter only.

now turn over again on starter

Now replace dizzy lead, and off you go.

Oh be well worth fitting a oil pres guage as when light comes on your engine is probably knackered!!

I have a press guage and a loud alarm on light - belt and braces!!!!!!!!!!!

Best of luck

MX
 
pornstarmax said:
If oil filter is on engine then its on the the bit the filter is on. It the filter is on a plate thats connected by 2 pipes its on the bit the pipes connect 2.

The priming bit is pretty simple - firstly whip on base plate and wack a GOOD bit of vasso in there betwen the pump cogs - its much more viscous than oil and gives a good old suck - to pull oil up. Put base plate back on

highly recommend you get one of these:

Special Range/Land Rover & TVR V8 Oil Pump Priming Tool on eBay (end time 01-May-11 10:58:11 BST)

now mark where the dizzy is (scribe a line from dizzy front pannel) then remove dizzy wack in tool and spin with a drill.

Now take off a rocker cover and see if you got oil from rockers.

Spin drill some more and your looking for oil drilling (not much, but dripping when spinning drill) if you got oil she is primmed, if not, more vasso and start agian

IMPORTANT,

After drill, the lifers will be properly pumped up, be sure to remove dizzy ht lead, and turn over for a 20 seconds on starter only.

now turn over again on starter

Now replace dizzy lead, and off you go.

Oh be well worth fitting a oil pres guage as when light comes on your engine is probably knackered!!

I have a press guage and a loud alarm on light - belt and braces!!!!!!!!!!!

Best of luck

MX
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise. I have an oil pressure gauge but never did get round to fitting it.lol Might have to do that.
 
ive not hd trouble on the 3.5 - i just drain the lot out, fill the filter up and away we go.

whilst we're talking about pressure relief though, i had a situation about 6 months ago where i was doing some pretty serious bogging and the motor was runing at WOT at about 4500rpm, intermittently for a few minutes.

when i finally made it out of the bog, droppoing down to tickover to cool the engine i noticed flickering oil light - kinda normal i thought if she's got really hot. i klet it run some more and then knocked it off, and on retstart the oil light didnt go out.

a sharp tap on the pump housing knocked the light out. this had to be done once or twice that day, but its been normal for the past 6 months or whatever.

i just wondered, is that likely to have been stuck valve, or just bad connection on pressure switch you reckon?

i put a new pressure switch in about 9 months ago because the opil light NEVER came on, and once or twice recently its not been coming on, but then a few minutes ateer its back to normal. i assume this symptom is the switch of course, but what about the ther way round???

apologies for the partial hijack, my excuse is that its on topic :D

cheers
 
Usually its the bore for the valve is scratched or got sh 1t embedded in it. worth wipping out and taking a butchers...

...Like I said previously I have an effing loud buzzer on my oil pressure light, as its pretty easy to miss.....
 
Bugger,lol.

We took the oil pump off, turns out the pressure release valve had jammed on the piece of gauze. So took that all out cleaned it up and got it working. Also replaced the oil pump gears. Primed everything. Got oil pressure.

Fired her up and it isn't pretty, she's still tapping badly and not running on all cylinders....

I didn't hear anything go bang, it just started to run on less cylinders. My mate reckons it's not as bad as I think it is and that the tappets may have jammed up due to oil starvation?

Any ideas where I should start with this?

I do realise I may have to get it completely rebuilt.
 
ouch. thats **** on a stick!

If its any consellation, since replacing the heads on my 3.9efi bob its very tappy compared to what it was before. firing and running nicely on all 8 tho. i put it down to the rods and top end no longer having the massive amount of black carbon/old oil sludge on the, as it did before. And perhaps that it now has thicker composite gaskets instead of thin tin ones.

If yours not running on all 8, I would take the intake n valley gasket off n have a look see whats goin on. Whats the compression like on all the cylinders? might not have the take heads off if theyre ok n you can free off the tappet?. Would also give you a good idea what state the cam is in if a tappet has jammed and a push rod aint movin how it should.
Good luck mate...I know how frustrating this kinda crap can be
 
Haha, i'm heading towards worst case which is a full rebuild.

I haven't done a compression test yet but I'll do one on Tuesday.

Once i've done that i'll take the intake and valley gasket off and have a look

It's bloody frustrating, I was hoping i'd get away with it......

I shall try the above and at least try and see whats wrong. I'm actually quite liking the idea of getting it rebuilt, then i'd have a half decent engine.
 
fett said:
sorry to hear its not looking good mate.

avoid britpart bits in your rebuild if you have to do one!
Click to expand...

Yeah, even their oil filters are ****e....had a worrying moment with newly acquired silver RRC daily driver. Bought it and it had a full ticket and service just before I picked it up. started gettin very tappy with oil light on first few secs of every cold start up....turned out to be the ****part oil filter. I've since done another change with a genuine LR filter and now works as it should:rolleyes:
 
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