Freelander 1 Tailgate window motor components

Having had a tailgate door that wouldn't open and traced it to tailgate window position sensor inside motor I am keen to see if the motor can be repaired. I have replaced the whole motor with sensors and all is well. I have tested the motor which is fine and now stripped out a small hall effect sensor (I think) with 3 pins. Marked A 07. Anyone know what would replace this device? If we could crack this it would save many motors going in the bin!! Happy to buy some bits and test the solution but I need an ID on this component. Can anyone add any knowledge of the signals to the CCU and or what this device might be??? Thanks.

Didn't think anyone would know !!!!

Having removed the hall effect sensor and done some research and testing, I have identified a Honeywell device that is the same size and will cope with up to 28V and 20mA. Have ordered one and then will try it and show photo of how to replace. Item provides the 'position' of the rear window to the CCU. What it actually does is shows when the motor has stalled (top and bottom positions) and if it has moved a few turns to permit 'door release'.

When my rear door wouldn't open (due to this device not revealing where the window was) - I disconnected the battery to confuse it further - the window still did not drop but when I reconnected the battery it obviously thought that the window was down as it sounded horn on locking and also allowed me to open the rear tailgate by using the door handle - careful easing of the window under the top seal got me into the boot !

If this works it means we can fix rear window motors (where the sensor is at fault) and the motor works o.k (test by false feeding pins 3 & 6 on the motor socket).
Cost - a whopping £1.48 - but some good eyesight and soldering required. Device measures 3mm x 4mm x 1.5mm !!

All fun............

Be interesting to see with some photos

Photos you want.......
Rear Window Motor in pieces.
Here is the hall-effect sensor - removed and held in pliers, no I couldn't see it very well either ! It is 3mm x 4mm.
And again - I have a replacement device from RS that should work, but I will have to test it on one of the cars and so this is going to happen when I get time as I have to remove the rear door trim etc..

andyfreelandy said:

no I couldn't see it very well either ! It is 3mm x 4mm.

Click to expand...

3mm X 4mm, that's enormous. The components I use in my solar charge controller kits are 0805 surface mount. They're much more fun to solder than "huge" through hole components.
Hopefully you'll have found the culprit to the problem though.

Fitted RS components device and tested - working perfectly !
So - if the rear window motor fails to operate from the CCU - i.e. when you tell it to, then you can probably fix it for £1.48p (free postage) !

Here's how:
Remove rear window regulator and motor complete from rear door.
Unscrew Torx screws and remove motor unit complete with drive pulley from the assembly.

Now - to check that the motor itself is working (and if it isn't you've probably found the problem) connect 12V to pin 3 and 6 on the multiplug on the motor unit.
If it runs - carry on reading, if it doesn't get a new motor !
Carefully remove the 4 torx screws holding the motor body to the pulley etc.
Motor removed from pulley assembly.
Carefully slide off the collar (black) which contains the brushes (don't damage the brushes as they 'pop' over the black ring and off the commutator) and the hall effect device (likely reason for failure).
Observe the small black transistory looking thing with three legs. It is slid into a plastic mount and the legs soldered.

Here is said device - it is a 'hall-effect' sensor - function described later.
Order yourself a seemingly equivalent device from RS components - no need for account or log in and post free so it gets my business !
Part number SS40A - Honeywell digital hall effect sensor - RS Stock Number 822-3778.
Pay £1.48 inc postage.
The pin out is identical to the old device but note that the edges are sloped (on old and new) to identify which way around it goes - look at the data sheet on the RS Components part page for diagram.
Bend legs to match the old device, get out your smallest soldering iron (the device is 3mm x 4mm) and take out the old and fit the new.
Get someone with good eye sight to do the job or to check that the solder is not bridging the small pads.
Refit the collar - you will need to compress the brushes back into place to get it to fit over the commutator and the magnetic ring.
Reassemble motor and test - job done.

The black ring next to the commutator has magnets in it. When it rotates it influences the hall effect sensor and lets the CCU know that the motor is moving. When the window hits top or bottom the CCU sees that the motor has stopped, this calibrates the CCU as to where the rear window is. When you open the rear door the CCU sends a signal to the window motor to rotate a number of times (haven't worked out how many yet !) and the window drops to clear the rear door seal.

Hope this saves someone the £30 odd quid for a new mechanism and / or motor.