Stupid question: what should I top up the coolant with?

To top up the coolant, should I use:

1. anti-freeze diluted with water
2. just water
3. something else

Now going to the mirror to call myself a **** before anyone else does.

Erm...depends on which coolant/anti-freeze you buy...some are pre-mixed others are concentrate so follow the mix instructions (with water).

Its not a good idea to use just water as you will do 1 of 2 things...overheat in summer or radiator freeze in winter. Either way, you're buggered.

PS... if you dont know whats in the system, i'd drain it and replace the whole lot.

storm99 said:

PS... if you dont know whats in the system, i'd drain it and replace the whole lot.

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Thanks Storm. I gather you fill to the half way mark/tank seam?

over fill it then recheck after a run somes bound to settle excess will be released out of cap till levels right

Couple of other things

If you drain compeltely - search on here for how to bleed the system

Be careful which type of antifreeze you use - some are very bad news for the Landy!

If yer landy has an ali head you'll wanna be chucking a 50/50 mix of pink (OAT-Organic Acid Technology) anti-freeze in it.

Station House said:

Couple of other things

If you drain compeltely - search on here for how to bleed the system

Be careful which type of antifreeze you use - some are very bad news for the Landy!

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Hi Station,

I've read a few posts on how to drain the coolant and flush the system, but am unclear on a few points. Here's how I think it needs to be done based on research of other posts. This is for my 200Tdi, 1992, by the way:

1) Locate the coolant drain plug on the right hand side of the engine and remove, like this: 200 tdi engine COOLANT drain plug location - YouTube

2) Then place hose pipe into coolant reservoir and flush through with water for 2 minutes.

3) Then remove radiator from vehicle, place in hose pipe and flush through with water for 2 minutes.

4) Reattach radiator, screw in drain plug on side of engine, screw on pipes.

5) Then, using 'Halfords Anti Freeze & Collant (suitable for most vehicles manufactured before 1998), conforms to BS6580' add a 50/50 mix of approx 12 litres.

Does that sound correct or is some of it overkill?

dont bother removing the whole rad or u'll be there all day, just remove the top + bottom pipes -hose in top pipe hole + flush till runs clear. -dont forget to refit pipes!

my dad keeps telling me to use de-ionised water (boiled water) as depending which area you live in + how often you top up with fresh, it can calcify over time.

he also said to put in a drop of laithe oil (cant remember the correct name for the stuff) but i havnt done this as at the rate my system leaks id be in the workshop every week!

deaftonewonder said:

dont bother removing the whole rad or u'll be there all day, just remove the top + bottom pipes -hose in top pipe hole + flush till runs clear. -dont forget to refit pipes!

my dad keeps telling me to use de-ionised water (boiled water) as depending which area you live in + how often you top up with fresh, it can calcify over time.

he also said to put in a drop of laithe oil (cant remember the correct name for the stuff) but i havnt done this as at the rate my system leaks id be in the workshop every week!

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Right you are and thanks for the useful tips. My lower radiator pipe has a leak around the fitting and I was wondering what type of sealant I should use to fill the gap?

GreenLove said:

Right you are and thanks for the useful tips. My lower radiator pipe has a leak around the fitting and I was wondering what type of sealant I should use to fill the gap?

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is the leak because the hose is perishing/ worn or is the flange on the radiator corroded / damaged?

there are a few good rad system sealants which you can put in at the reservoir + they'll flow round the system sealing all the nooks, some are general (in that they'r designed to seal cracks in the rad itself + the pipe system) others are more specific to the application -i would say ask at halfords but they arent always the best place to go as most of the time they have little experience of the stuff they sell!
someone on here might be able to recommend a specific product? or ask ur mechanic which he favours.

or you can take the hose off, clean the mating surfaces as best you can -prob will need to remove the rad tho- +use a solvent type glue to weld the rubber on -though obviously this is the least favourable option if you plan flushing the system often as part of a servicing sched.

mine had an incessant leak at the pump /pipe interface + i tried everything until in a last ditch effort i jus got my socket set + tightened the crap out of the jubilee clip -was gonna be a flange swap next anyway as the flange was in poor condition -touch wood this isnt leaking anymore but im fooked if i wanna get it off!!

Ce-Lit. Cheapest and works the best. Top up with that blue stuff.

Cabbie said:

Ce-Lit. Cheapest and works the best. Top up with that blue stuff.

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let us know how u get on with this + i might get a tube for emergencys!

deaftonewonder said:

dont bother removing the whole rad or u'll be there all day, just remove the top + bottom pipes -hose in top pipe hole + flush till runs clear. -dont forget to refit pipes!

my dad keeps telling me to use de-ionised water (boiled water) as depending which area you live in + how often you top up with fresh, it can calcify over time.

he also said to put in a drop of laithe oil (cant remember the correct name for the stuff) but i havnt done this as at the rate my system leaks id be in the workshop every week!

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De ionised water is not just boiled water! Normal tap water is suffice and cheaper for use in a car

Chrisfrain2007 said:

De ionised water is not just boiled water! Normal tap water is suffice and cheaper for use in a car

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well if youv got a still handy...... i dont, therefore i boil!

oh yeah, if filling from a hose pipe just dont forget to whack in a calgon tablet -apparently good for washing machines too....

Boiling the water will do nothing too it, other than make it hot! U may as well not bother pal

judging by the heating element in my kettle, over time, id disagree... +i live in a soft water area!

as it is, a britta filter +boil works pretty well!

however if ppl are concearned id suggest a google search of their water company -this will show if they live in a hard or soft water area.

hard water area? -id do everything poss to limit the amount of calcification in my rad.

deaftonewonder said:

judging by the heating element in my kettle, over time, id disagree... +i live in a soft water area!

as it is, a britta filter +boil works pretty well!

however if ppl are concearned id suggest a google search of their water company -this will show if they live in a hard or soft water area.

hard water area? -id do everything poss to limit the amount of calcification in my rad.

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Maybe you should Google both de ioniseation and distilled water, neither of which is what is left in ya kettle after you have boiled it, if you were to catch the steam and condense it back to water, that would be distilled water, but not de ionised ! Your Brita filter does what you are trying to achieve by taking the lime from your water, boiling it does not

getting a bit ,daft tap water and antifreeze works ,your never going to put enough water through it to make any difference,ive never seen any engine suffer as long as antifreeze used

iv seen some gopping rads in the workshop but thats 'cos lads fill from the hose + nobody cares when theyre not paying for the part!

ignore the txt on the pics + look at this; even with a good quality antifreeze, if you own the veh for a few years + top up regularly it'll start to look like this inside....