Stubburn A-Frame Ball Joint

Evening All,

I'm after some tips if possible. I'm changing the A-Frame Bushes and Ball Joint this weekend in preparation for the whole suspension next weekend. However, I've hit a snag.

I've got all the bolts out of the A-Frame brackets on the chassis without to much issue (Plus Gas and a good Buzz Gun is priceless!) and that's currently sat loose.

I have the 30mm Ball Joint nut off (again, a decent buzz gun here is wonderful!) and I've been slowly driving in my ball joint splitter but the thing just wont pop! I've put some serious time and abuse into hitting it in and I just cant get enough force to properly split it!

Does anyone have any tips here?

I may have to resort to heating the the axle bracket, try and get it to open up a little, but that requires asking a favour of a relative to get me some more gas, so may have a couple hours in the morning to try other options!

Any help appreciated!

Once it's all out I've got to get it all done and back on tomorrow! So if I can get it out in the morning it would be good! Can then get burning out the old bushes !

Thanks in advance!

whack the socket holding joint ,it will stretch the taper holding joint and it will pop out if done with a proper hammer and proper hit as you do for all such joints

jamesmartin said:

whack the socket holding joint ,it will stretch the taper holding joint and it will pop out if done with a proper hammer and proper hit as you do for all such joints

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Listen to James advice hes been working on landrovers since the early fifties

If I'm thinking of the right bit, I've given it a good few clouts, just always a bit careful not to break anything. I've worked on plenty of 'normal' cars and I thought I knew what stubborn was lol! Some of the bits on the landy sets some new levels!

None of the normal car tricks work !

So just to confirm, you mean what the joint in which the ball joint sits down into? My normal sequence would be 2 lump hammers, rest one up against the back, then clout the other side, but I cant get anything being that joint obviously.

Will they take plenty of abuse before I potentially damage anything?

Many thanks!

On a side note ... pressbrake ... I recognise your name from other forums. You a 2 Wheeler as well?

one hammer and a big hit ,little hits will just mess up the bracket

Righty oh!

Will give that a go! Hopefully that will get her out!

Wish I had a ruddy pit or some nice 2/4 poster ramps! Could get some serious clout behind it then! Still ... should be able to get some nice swing in it!

taazzukcb said:

Righty oh!

Will give that a go! Hopefully that will get her out!

Wish I had a ruddy pit or some nice 2/4 poster ramps! Could get some serious clout behind it then! Still ... should be able to get some nice swing in it!

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wouldnt go under a landy on a two poster!

Really? Seen several garages running a 2 poster with moving internal arms. Can just about reach the extremes of the Defender chassis before the raise over the axles. So 4 good points.

Never had mine on a ramp, but seen them on them! Might go have another nosey one day!

mick the builder said:

wouldnt go under a landy on a two poster!

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I have and it can be done. it's ok for servicing and the like but if you have start levering or using big hammers it all gets a bit unstable and scary, a four poster is a much better idea.

Come to think of it I've done 90s, discos and classic RR's on a 2 poster but I really really wouldn't want to do a 110.

waldershelf said:

I have and it can be done. it's ok for servicing and the like but if you have start levering or using big hammers it all gets a bit unstable and scary, a four poster is a much better idea.

Come to think of it I've done 90s, discos and classic RR's on a 2 poster but I really really wouldn't want to do a 110.

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I don't have a ramp at all myself, about the only time mine goes on one is for the MOT. But I think you are right, the weight and bulk is whats important. My 90 hardtop only weighs about 1650 kg, sure it would be fine on two poster, whereas a fully armoured and equipped 110 must weigh well over two tons, and much longer and bulkier!

Turboman said:

I don't have a ramp at all myself, about the only time mine goes on one is for the MOT. But I think you are right, the weight and bulk is whats important. My 90 hardtop only weighs about 1650 kg, sure it would be fine on two poster, whereas a fully armoured and equipped 110 must weigh well over two tons, and much longer and bulkier!

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Its not just the weight that causes problems, when you put most cars on a two poster you usually use lifting points somewhere just inside the sill line, many cars have specific lifting or jacking points. With landrovers you have to go on the chassis which is well in towards the centre line of the vehicle and you also because of the design end up lifting too close to the the middle of the vehicle rather than at front and back. Add this to the fact the extensions on the ramp arms are at full stretch and you have a recipe for an unstable (unsafe) lift. I've had a Porsche cayenne turbo on a two poster, which is bigger and heavier than a Landrover but much more stable.

waldershelf said:

Its not just the weight that causes problems, when you put most cars on a two poster you usually use lifting points somewhere just inside the sill line, many cars have specific lifting or jacking points. With landrovers you have to go on the chassis which is well in towards the centre line of the vehicle and you also because of the design end up lifting too close to the the middle of the vehicle rather than at front and back. Add this to the fact the extensions on the ramp arms are at full stretch and you have a recipe for an unstable (unsafe) lift. I've had a Porsche cayenne turbo on a two poster, which is bigger and heavier than a Landrover but much more stable.

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Interesting!
I will bear that in mind if I am ever lucky enough to have a ramp. Mind yu, I will have to work on getting electricity in the buildings first!

waldershelf said:

Its not just the weight that causes problems, when you put most cars on a two poster you usually use lifting points somewhere just inside the sill line, many cars have specific lifting or jacking points. With landrovers you have to go on the chassis which is well in towards the centre line of the vehicle and you also because of the design end up lifting too close to the the middle of the vehicle rather than at front and back. Add this to the fact the extensions on the ramp arms are at full stretch and you have a recipe for an unstable (unsafe) lift. I've had a Porsche cayenne turbo on a two poster, which is bigger and heavier than a Landrover but much more stable.

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Couldn't have put it better myself