Drop arm ball joint puller

dag019 said:

Oh yes I have had that joy before, 5min to get the old one out and new one in with the puller you have pictured and then 1.5h fiddling with the spring clips with everything covered in grease trying to get the rubber to stay in place only for it to split 6 months later!

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Here's a trick to make this job easier, use masking tape to hold the boot in place when fitting the retainer spring. Once retainer clip in place remove masking tape + buy boots from Polyboot.com and/or Gwyn Lewis, he sells the excellent Polyboot.com boots as kits for Land Rovers

Get the laser one, (laser 6664) or the sealey one, dont mess about use it then sell on here or ebay, thats what i did job done...
click here

n chap it off from above, steel bar n club hammer, good soak of your preffered release agent night before, mine was much eiser than expected, but a few can be thermic lance time PMSL

v8250 said:

Here's a trick to make this job easier, use masking tape to hold the boot in place when fitting the retainer spring. Once retainer clip in place remove masking tape + buy boots from Polyboot.com and/or Gwyn Lewis, he sells the excellent Polyboot.com boots as kits for Land Rovers

SEARCH BY SIZE

Ball Joint Boots and Tie Rod End Boots by Dimensions The search by size gives you the opportunity to find suitable dust boots, when you can't do that by just searching by make and model. For your convenience, the ball joint boots and tie rod end boots are split in 2 groups - by color and h

polyboots.com

Steering Items – GwynLewis4x4.co.uk

gwynlewis4x4.co.uk

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AND is why i did the DISCO drop arm conversion..........gwyn sells this as well.No more messing about with boots etc poor design!
IF you get your drop arm off, why on earth would anyone would fit another defender one back on again!
nice new lemforder greaseable / replaceable ball joint, simples...

See page 31/32 of my build for when i did it ...click here

Turboman said:

Applies a violent shock against the taper, and because it is applied on the side of the arm, the shock is assymetric, first one side then the other if you turn the arm while you are doing it.

And saves money on pullers, and you don't have a tool lying around for ten years until you need to do the job again. I always lose stuff like that before I use it again.

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Air hammer and puller sorted my one, easier than i expected, settled in for a battle, hit it with Plusgas night before and then ...plop off it came, pleased, but oddly dissappointed lol

Snap @KISSMYAURA , did the same on the Ninety + the steering and track rods. As kits they're superbly thought through and one comes away thinking the install's just done 'right...'

v8250 said:

Snap @KISSMYAURA , did the same on the Ninety + the steering and track rods. As kits they're superbly thought through and one comes away thinking the install's just done 'right...'

View attachment 290950

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the weight of the HD stainless steering bars caught me ( and nearly my toes) by surprise!

KISSMYAURA said:

the weight of the HD stainless steering bars caught me ( and nearly my toes) by surprise!

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They're not lightweights...

v8250 said:

View attachment 290950

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Looks very nice ... did you buy a job lot of stainless penny washers ?

miktdish said:

Looks very nice ... did you buy a job lot of stainless penny washers ?

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Penny washers? Nah. Marine grade engineering A4-80 high tensile fasteners all round, Yep I buy them in bulk for any car project and use where needed/best suited.

v8250 said:

Penny washers? Nah. Marine grade engineering A4-80 high tensile fasteners all round, Yep I buy them in bulk for any car project and use where needed/best suited.

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plus 1 for the 316 grade, 316L if you lucky enough to afford / find it.
I used 316 for all fastenings on my build, its the molyb that makes all the difference!

I also use ceramic antifret paste, on some bolts.
Most people use copperslip but its abrasive and a when dry actually attracts moisture, and does not really have a usefull application on a car since 1975 as brake shim anti squeels even then it was pants.

KISSMYAURA said:

I used 316 for all fastenings on my build, its the molyb that makes all the difference! I also use ceramic antifret paste, on some bolts.
Most people use copperslip but its abrasive and a when dry actually attracts moisture, and does not really have a usefull application on a car since 1975 as brake shim anti squeels even then it was pants.

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100% this. There's nothing worse than whizzing up a 19mm stainless nut, the nut over heating and galling up. They're a nightmare to remove. I've done this twice where rushing. The first it was out with the angle grinder. The second there was no room for the grinder so is was out with the old school junior hacksaw - I went through four brand new blades and the use of nut splitter removing one A4-80 19mm nut !

v8250 said:

100% this. There's nothing worse than whizzing up a 19mm stainless nut, the nut over heating and galling up. They're a nightmare to remove. I've done this twice where rushing. The first it was out with the angle grinder. The second there was no room for the grinder so is was out with the old school junior hacksaw - I went through four brand new blades and the use of nut splitter removing one A4-80 19mm nut !

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we dont like nyloc either, well to be fair they do have thier place, ie no-where that gets wet or hot lol
Anywhere else, great vibration resistance I spose. I use white ceramic grease / SKF anti fret. And only ceratec ceramic gel for brakeparts. Gearbox cross member came out like a dream due to antifret.

You can see the anti fret here after assembly...