Strange clunking noise from underneath

Over the last two weeks since the snow has gone I've developed a clunking noise (well my TD5 90 has) when going over the smallest of bumps and turning corners. Can't recreate it by rocking the motor. Shock absorber bushes are brand new so its not them.
Been underneath and had a good look at the suspension bushes but no clue as to which ones are the culprits. Definitely from the front though.
I've bough a complete bush set from Paddocks but would like to change out the offending ones first so I dont do any more damage.
Any ideas as to which ones its likely to be. My money is on the radius arms but until I get them off its a complete guess. I'm away working for all of April so I want to get it sorted before then.

id say radius arm bushes to mate and belive me they are tight to change

Sure the handbrakes completely disengaging?

A frame ball joint?

lil-landy said:

Sure the handbrakes completely disengaging?

Click to expand...

That would judder even if you were going in a straight line.
Is it happening on both locks or just one?
Have a good yank on everything underneath for any play; radius arms, panhard rod, drop-arm ball joints, check your props and UJ's as well, if it's more of a clicking than a clunking, it could be a CV joint.

It's defo a clunking and seems to be when changing direction.
Not props or handbrake.
I'll drop the radius arms off this weekend and have a bash at the bushes first.
I made a press many years ago from some RSJ bits and an old bottle jack so I'm hoping to be able to get the old ones out reasonably easy.
Watch this space.

OD is yo man - check the a frame ball joint. That will give those symptoms.

Dirty Gertie said:

That would judder even if you were going in a straight line.

Click to expand...

If you don't completely disengage it, like, the red light on the dash is off, but it still seems to be on, it clicks as you go around corners Found out meself.

The Mad Hat Man said:

OD is yo man - check the a frame ball joint. That will give those symptoms.

Click to expand...

Will do. I'll change all the bushes eventually but just want to get this sorted quickly before I go away.
Thanks for the suggestions and I'll let you know the culprit as soon as I found out.

swivels maybe? Mine are a bit worn (they are getting rebuilt soon) but they make it clonk over corners, especiallly when turning - jack up each front wheel in turn and see if these any play when wobbled about a verticle axis

boydy1989 said:

swivels maybe? Mine are a bit worn (they are getting rebuilt soon) but they make it clonk over corners, especiallly when turning - jack up each front wheel in turn and see if these any play when wobbled about a verticle axis

Click to expand...

They look OK (nice and clean) but will also give them a good going over.

A frame ball joint.

Just had a proper look underneath and it's defo the driver side radius arm bushes where they bolt to the axle. There is about a 1/4 inch of free play side to side and the rubber has completely perished to the point where it can not bee seen. The nearside arm is perfect with no play and the rubber is clearly visible.
I'll jack the motor up today and get the arms off and hopefully I'll be back in business sometime tomorrow. I'll reuse the nuts and pivot bolts for the time being but will change them for new when I've got more time as the driver side front bolt has obvious wear due to sideways movement of the arm.

lil-landy said:

If you don't completely disengage it, like, the red light on the dash is off

Click to expand...

You have a red light telling you when it's on?????

You're posh!!!

I does....heated seats too

lil-landy said:

I does....heated seats too

Click to expand...

everyone else has amber difflock lights on their landys.

Red lights mean stop.:doh:

Problem solved at last.
Changed all bushes but still got the metallic clunk.
Turns out is was the upper front shock mount bush which had completely disintegrated.
Sods law its one of the few you cant see on the car and its a b***stard getting the thing out. Had to remove the front spring in the end as the shock cage would not come out like its supposed to.
While I'm at it does any one have any tips on how to stop the shock twisting when you try to undo the top nut? The bottom has a spanner flat on the thread but the top dont.

Shifty1962 said:

While I'm at it does any one have any tips on how to stop the shock twisting when you try to undo the top nut? The bottom has a spanner flat on the thread but the top dont.

Click to expand...

Stilsons.

Thought of that but the top of the shock is the bit connected to the piston shaft and it sits inside the mounting cage. I cant get anything on it cos its still inside the cage, even at full extension, and if I could it would bugger up the nice shiny slidy bit which slides through the oil seals on the shock. If I grip the shock body the piston end still turns.
I've tried an air impact wrench to get it started but no joy.
The thing has been soaking in 3in1 for two days now as it was a bit rusty to say the least.
If I cant get it off I'll have to cut the bugger and fit new shocks which seems daft as theres nowt wrong with these ones.

angle grinder.

New shocks are less than £10. And they come with the spanner flat on the end.