Freelander 1 Since TD4 is a BMW M47R- so how far can we tune it?

Wondering on what to do to my freelander as the synergy 2 & pierburgh maf isn't fast enough for me now now... :-(

One of the reasons being that the other cars on the drive way are a BMW 635d and a Citroen c5 3.0hdi, both of which are properly quick diesels. I know the later variation of the same engine can make 200bhp, but I don't know if the freelander version can match that? Has anyone done some serious work on the freelander engine? I'm thinking along the lines of upgrading the turbo to a hybrid GT1749v or a standard GT2256v, bigger injectors, bigger intercooler, remove swirlflaps, decatting (gutting the cat so it still looks proper), new standard MAF + remap and maybe a straight through exhaust?

So I'm just wondering did anyone else go down that sort of road with the TD4 and what sorts of results did they get from it?

It can be improved by some of the breathing and fueling mods you listed, except for the swirl flaps, which aren't fitted to the early M47 engine. The standard turbo is fine for 160 BHP too.

Be aware that the M47R (R meaning rover version) doesn't have the steel crank of the BMW version, having a cast iron crank instead. These are known to fail in standard form, so will ultimately been the limiting factor in improving output, much above 135 BHP.

remove swirlflaps

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the td4 version don't have swirlflaps

and however far you want to take the bhp ..
you'd want to take the drivetrain into account .. the IRD etc ..
and insurance costs will go up as well ..

also .. take the bhp too far .. one risks damaging the turbo and pistons ..
from high exhaust temps ..

if it aint responsive enough from low rpm
consider the air intake mod ( link in my signature )

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Thanks for the info nodge, but I wish I had known about the crank a year ago, I had the engine and gearbox out as it seemed the easiest way to swap the autobox for a recon unit - I could have put a bmw crank on it then. Whats the limit of the auto box? IE: is it worth upgrading the crank to allow me to tune the engine more or will I simply shred the autobox if I do that?

something else to consider if your looking for "fast"
the fl1 is fairly under-braked in standard format .. i.m.h.o.

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@hd3 I can't see your signature... can you post the link?

I can't see your signature... can you post the link?

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https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/intercooler-problem-mod.126484/page-2#post-3853325

in short .. it provides a quicker initial airflow over/thru the maf sensor
therefore letting the ecu give more fueling 'permission' when pressing the go pedal

another 'aid' to the intake airflow be to remove the foam surround from off the airfilter
unless .. you think it's needed .. e.g for off road whereas maybe some debri might be sucked in
( in theory )

you might want to double check how much tourque the auto box can take

that a.i. mod certainly benefits the manual box ..
even without any extra fuelling ..
less need to ever slip the clutch .. more control at low rpm/speed
easier on the drivetrain ..
( obviously depending on how the driver uses the clutch .. with mechanical sympathy .. or not .. .. )

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Jayridium said:

I wish I had known about the crank a year ago, I had the engine and gearbox out as it seemed the easiest way to swap the autobox for a recon unit - I could have put a bmw crank on it then. Whats the limit of the auto box?

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The auto box has an absolute maximum torque capacity of 300 Nm, so that's your limiting factor. The standard M47R is 40 Nm short of the box limits, as the TD4 is rated at 260 Nm. So you can push the torque up a bit, but can't go made, as the box clutches slip and burn out.

tbh .. having had some 180 bhp lr vehicles on loan for a few days
a td4 + synergy + a.i. mod .. is not that much slower ..
if time-to-get-up-to-speed is an issue .. then moving up thru the gears with the manual
be the 'time' penalty .. the auto box is much better at that .. plus it's better off-road

secondly .. the fl1 .. doesn't feel that great at higher speeds ( by comparison with newer models )
older suspension .. etc .. by design .. and age / wear and tear ..

and being a diesel .. they're slower to rev ( internal components being heavier than a petrol engine )
so the thing to work on / take advantage of .. be the 'torque'
better torque at lower rpm ( e.g. under the 1750 rpm peak tourque in stock format )
+ slightly bigger tyres .. (slightly higher gearing ) means for the manual ..
being able to upshift sooner .. and getting a move-on quicker ..
plus being able to 'cruise' at a lower rpm

i.e. .. no need to rev the guts out of the engine to get a move-on ..

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dunno .. but lets say i want to take mine up to 180 bhp ..
i'd probably take into 2wd mode .. add disc brakes to the rear ..
upgrade the shocks ..
and fit a pyrometer ( exhaust gas temp. gauge ) to keep an eye on those temps

( i've no desire to do so .. as am quite happy with its performance as is )

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in any case .. more power .. depending on how that 'power' is used ..
means more wear and tear to the tyres and brakes ..
and more stress on the drivetrain ..
not to mention .. mpg

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Most of the M47R on the Rover 75 MGZT R40 have had a 160 upgrade some from 116, some from the standard MGZT 135, but all are ok with the re-map which was written by a chap on the Rover club, I do not know if the same map would be ok for the TD4 FL1 I could ask.

Genuinely, thanks a lot for the input. My freelander is quick off the mark, but feels, strangled (?) at higher (>2500rpm). I've got mine rolling on 225/75/16 Kumho KL71 tyres - away to switch it over to its "summer wheels" with 23/70/16 BFG all terrains back end of next month, both a 29" tyre, so its got the gearing to play to the torque.

It's pretty tricked out already, its been in the family since new, Father in Law bought and specced it up as a Freelander Commercial through Land Rover Special Vehicles, ran it for four years, then my wife and I bought it off him. Father in Law specced it up with pretty much everything, except cruise control - then since his tenure of it, it got retrofitted with a three door leather interior when our eldest came along, then the KL71's, followed by a a Synergy and Pierburgh MAF, then (a 2" lift kit- ally sump guard - recon autobox - Terra Firma tubular exhaust guard*).

The freelander is the first car my eldest kid remembers...

Its now part of the family.

It is the vehicle

*I installed this to protect the bumper not the exhaust.

@Artic2 - I'd love that map file as I have the machine for uploadig it to the freelander

Jayridium said:

My freelander is quick off the mark, but feels, strangled (?) at higher (>2500rpm).

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That's the way the TD4 is. Good low end torque, and all out of puff by 3.5K RPM.

Jayridium said:

I've got mine rolling on 225/75/16 Kumho KL71 tyres - away to switch it over to its "summer wheels" with 23/70/16 BFG all terrains back end of next month, both a 29" tyre, so its got the gearing to play to the torque.

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Large diameter tyres really affect the acceleration and hill climbing ability, especially at higher speeds in 4 and 5.

My own TD4 performs very differently with my 235/55/18" tyres compared to the standard 215/65/16 tyres.

As above the limiting factor is really the drivetrain, it can only take so much before going bang.

300nm for the Auto 'box and i imagine the manual isn't much better as they too have their limits!!

Cast iron crank will probably shyte itself at anything above 180hp.

However the "BMW" units can get over 200hp.

But being a diesel its the torque that counts more than HP, but as said already the Autobox can only take so much..

Best leave it alone and concentrate on your 645 BMW as that's built to be a fast cruiser.

The Freelander is a Landrover and all LR's are slow, regardless of what engines in them

My freelander is quick off the mark, but feels, strangled (?) at higher (>2500rpm)

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i see that as being unusual .. unless the auto box has something to do with it
i.e. i've always felt it's got more ooomph above 2500 .. as if that rpm is a 'step' point in
the overall power band ..
maybe it's a boost issue ? .. like not enough at 2500 'n above ..
or .. maybe somethings up with the synergy box .. accidently nudged a setting on that rotary dial ?

my synergy played up on me recently .. all of a sudden 'eff all power ..
would get up to speed .. but took ages .. was a bit worse feeling .. than if the synergy 'power' switch were "off"
so stopped .. had a look at the switch state .. on or off .. toggled both switches a few times ..
restarted 'n drove off .. all back to normal ..

given how it were performing beforehand .. i rekon it felt like the maf switch had an issue
like oxidation buildup .. or similar .. ( i'd not touched either switch fo about 2yr )
and that the engine were running with the pierburg maf .. but with no comp. from synergy box

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might take the synergy box apart .. for a cleaning 'n look-see ..
'n maybe bypass the maf switch .. so it's always 'on' regardless

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Here is thread on our R40 forum regarding the FL 1face lift having an up grade and why the 160 would be no good for it.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=2703248#post2703248

Arctic2 said:

Here is thread on our R40 forum regarding the FL 1face lift having an up grade and why the 160 would be no good for it.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=2703248#post2703248

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I can't see how it affects the HDC, or cooling. The FL1 has a huge excess of cooling capacity available. Surely the mapping just needs to include the HDC code to be written in. I'm no expert on such things, but if 130 Bhp map works ok, I can't see why the 160 map can't be made to function just as well, for manual cars anyway. I'm just thinking out low here, as I'm happy with mine as it is at present, and don't want to stress an already old auto box.