Seized VCU????

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Darrnw

New Member
Posts
82
After looking through the other threads I am wondering if I could have a seized VCU on my 2000 Td4 it seems I have all the tell tail signs. But could someone please explain when a VCU is Seized what happens to it?
Is it not possible to free it up or refurb it?
If I need to replace it is it Urgent or is there some way to delay replacing it i.e remove the propshaft?
And Most importantly how can I tell if it has damaged the IRD?
Grateful for any replies.
Darren
 
Get it to a specialist.

If you think it's damaged, stop driving cos you will knacker the IRD.
 
Hi Darrnw OK this is very hard to explain but i will try and give it my best shot,the vcu is a sealed fer life gizmo if its shot then two things [1] it drives all the time [2] it don't drive at all, so this is the basic theory,the freelander is bout 75% front /w / drive from the ird unit fitted behind g/box then you have a prop to the vcu another prop to the fdu [at the rear ] phew, if yer front wheel or wheels rotate faster than rear wheel or wheels,then the clever vcu puts more power to the rear, now if ya suspect its the ird disconnect the first or second prop [don't know which is the easiest] if the noise whine grunt is still there,then it is something to do with the front if not ya looking at rear , also you can still run with the props orft ,but you will now be f/w/ drive only ,it will go like a bat outa hell better mpg but more chance of skidding,now remember you have a cv on each wheel and if these are a bit shot can transfer the noise to another place,phew if Ive got any of this wrong I'm gonna get slated,however you can now see how difficult it is to pin point a fault on this very clever set up, best oh luck. . .:)
 
ming said:
Hi Darrnw OK this is very hard to explain but i will try and give it my best shot,the vcu is a sealed fer life gizmo if its shot then two things [1] it drives all the time [2] it don't drive at all, so this is the basic theory,the freelander is bout 75% front /w / drive from the ird unit fitted behind g/box then you have a prop to the vcu another prop to the fdu [at the rear ] phew, if yer front wheel or wheels rotate faster than rear wheel or wheels,then the clever vcu puts more power to the rear, now if ya suspect its the ird disconnect the first or second prop [don't know which is the easiest] if the noise whine grunt is still there,then it is something to do with the front if not ya looking at rear , also you can still run with the props orft ,but you will now be f/w/ drive only ,it will go like a bat outa hell better mpg but more chance of skidding,now remember you have a cv on each wheel and if these are a bit shot can transfer the noise to another place,phew if Ive got any of this wrong I'm gonna get slated,however you can now see how difficult it is to pin point a fault on this very clever set up, best oh luck. . .:)
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That give me headache:)
 
Thanks Ming! I've got the haynes manual and it says the prop is held on with torx bolts does anybody have any idea what size they are? Had alook in the book but can't see what size!
 
Darrnw said:
Thanks Ming! I've got the Haynes manual and it says the prop is held on with torx bolts does anybody have any idea what size they are? Had alook in the book but can't see what size!
Click to expand...
I just take the whole set and see if one fits [never even look at what size it is] but if your gonna buy some only get professional standard and 1/2 inch drive, or you'll find the others just snap, worth paying for. . .;)
 
How would I know if the IRD has knackered? The symptoms why I am assuming the VCU has gone are as follows:when reversing with full lock on it feels like the hand brake is on. When turning full lock going forward at low speed feeling as if handbrake is on and a slight squeeking coming from front. Another question whilst doing 50mph upwards (Which I am now avoiding until I take of the prop later today) I get a, again very slight grating sound from around the final drive (rear diff) area does this mean that this is also knackered? If so what is the cheapest place to get the parts it seems straightforwardish to fit them. And finally if it is Just the VCU is there no way to free it back up? If not why?
 
Darrnw said:
How would I know if the IRD has knackered? The symptoms why I am assuming the VCU has gone are as follows:when reversing with full lock on it feels like the hand brake is on. When turning full lock going forward at low speed feeling as if handbrake is on and a slight squeeking coming from front. Another question whilst doing 50mph upwards (Which I am now avoiding until I take of the prop later today) I get a, again very slight grating sound from around the final drive (rear diff) area does this mean that this is also knackered? If so what is the cheapest place to get the parts it seems straightforwardish to fit them. And finally if it is Just the VCU is there no way to free it back up? If not why?
Click to expand...

Me headaches back!

Hi Darrnw
I was under the same impression as you with the forward n reverse Brakes on bit, thingy . But quite a few folks said theres is the same (and have bin for quite a while ) without any failure of said parts!
If its summat thats stoppin you enjoying yer hippo might be worth havin a chat with them nice people at the AA / Rac etc , cos they do stand alone warrantys, Not cheap mind,£250ish,??? but still cheaper than replacing the lot yourself just check what the terms and conditions are??? see if it suits you,
Sorry i carnt be more help mate
 
Earthling don't jump too deep fella slow down, first a lot of talk about this feeling of locking from slow start on this forum , second check yer basics, front or rear brakes binding, cv,s worn[worth sqeezing them rubber bits so as too push the lube back in the bearing central force can be a funny thing on your earth] check yer lube level on g/box ird and fdu , then try the remove a prop if all this fails as per my last thread, and the clever vcu unit works on a hydrolic principle beyond most earthlings so best re place, always check basics first, best oh luck. . .;)
 
Hi Ming, I have just checked the posts on reversing with the lock on and everyone seems to point to the VCU. Can you tell me off any other that suggests other things? As you say I'd sooner check other things first before stripping it of it's 4wd!
 
Well like i said always check the basics first but a simple one that is missed a lot is yer rear diff bushes [the rubber bits that hold it all too the chassis] check out zippys threads i think, think if your really concerned ,try a good independent to help ya pin point it, i cannot think of an easy fix to this problem, unless l r guys about , he knows a little bit bout transmission i think, he he. . .;)
 
Here we go again! I have done the VCU test (Jack one rear wheel up chock the front and turn rear drive shaft with socket and a bar) front wheels didn't move rear turn slowly! So I guess the VCU is ok. Then I removed the back plate from the final drive to check that, no sign of wear there! Refilled with fluid! No play in wheel bearings on rear.
Any other suggestions? The noise is definately from the rear as I say from 50mph upwards with foot on accelerator. Could it be the rear CV joints? If so how can I check them? As always grateful for replies.
 
Have yer got odd tyres or part worns rear good on front or tother way[looks like that diff is gonna come orft] but youve sorted out the vcu and yes that was the correct test, and yer rear fdu looks good, so yer left with props, prop shaft bearings ,cv,s wheel bearings, by taking orft last prop you might eliminate a few but sometimes yer will only get the noise underload. . .;)
 
I'm starting to think it may be the propshaft bearings. Would that cause the problems I'm having? Listening closely I can here again at speed a slight rumble that sounds to be coming roughly in the floor area between the front seats. And I also get a slight clunk every now and again. Has anybody replaced these? Do they need to be pressed on? Where is the cheapest place for them?
 
Darrnw said:
I'm starting to think it may be the propshaft bearings.
Click to expand...
Darrnw said:
Well full marks to ya you don't give in, the prop bearings being ya cheapest option , be carefull not to strain the vcu best to undo props with vcu still in place,trouble is both or one,or change one if that don't cure it fit the one yer took orft on tother ,but as you now know very hard too pin it down as in your case breaking under load plus a certain speed, if you decide to diy again read the book no strain and make sure you line up the vcu with new bearing exact as you have a lot of play with the bearing position,all the best. . .;)
Click to expand...
 
Jobs a good un! Propshaft bearings well knackered now sorted and running fine!( For the time being) Thanks for the help!
 
Darrnw said:
Jobs a good un! Propshaft bearings well knackered now sorted and running fine!( For the time being) Thanks for the help!
Click to expand...
Nice one earthling,ya stuck with it till a conclusion i,m proud of yer. . . :) :) :)
 
Hi Darrnw

Did you ever pin point what the problem was? if there was a problem! I have the same symtoms on my 99 L series.
Regards
 
Hi Sorry not reading whole story! didn't get passed page one. Was it the prop shaft bearings causing the binding on full lock?
Regards
 
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