RRC V8 slow starting/doesn't idle/then dies.

Hi all,

OK, the Range Rover (3.9 V8 on LPG) has never started from cold on the first turn, it’s always turned over a couple of times before kicking into life.

However, this morning it was really bad – I guess the damp/wet weather didn’t help. It started on the third or fourth turn of the starter, but once it did start it didn’t want to idle at all – if I didn’t hold the throttle part-open (approx 2,500-3,000rpm) it would’ve died, and it actually did die when I let go of the accelerator.

When I then tried to restart it, it also let out a big “pop” from under the bonnet, although it then ran fine and drove fine all the way to work. It doesn't seem to have a problem starting once the engine is warm, usually starts on the first turn of the key.

As the previous owner changed the plugs when he serviced it, I am guessing it could be a dirty sensor somewhere – MAF sensor maybe?

Any ideas/fixes welcome. Ideally I’d also like it to start on the very first turn of the key, not have to hold it for two or three turns, so anything to improve that too would be appreciated.

Cheers!

47 views and no ideas?! :confused2:

is your ignition in tip top shape?

and what do you mean pop?

Check for inlet leaks. Check/clean stepper. Check base idle. If you're feeling really sporty, remove and clean plenum and ram housing, check/set throttle butterfly. Check vac and mech advance are working.

that should keep you out of mischief for a morning.

Could just be the damp/ torrential water fallin from the sky just lately.
I would check the dizzy cap n rotor first off. n wipe over with a little WD40.
Not had it with daily drivers, but the off roader is prone to gettin mud n water in the plug to the idle stepper too, so defo worth checking the plug as well as the stepper itself, as Kev says.
My old man once had a Jag that didn't like starting after rain...mainly due to ECU's n electrics gettin damp, but we don't want to go there (probably another reason why Jags are so cheap on ebay)

mine occasionally doesnt idle until i give it a blip and then its back on planet earth again. usually it just cracks up immediatly any day, but once every week or so it might miss the start. akmost like the idle control hasd a lie in.

popping back in the inlet manifold usually means some sort of timing issue i think.

they do sometimes take a while to start though, but nothing more than 5 seconds id say.

yup, check everything and go from there.

go through this Rover 14CUX Hot Wire Mass Flow EFI: Service and Troubleshooting

and check your igntion and it's timing

and you will probably highlight a few issues

cheers

Thanks guys! I have no idea how to check my ignition and timing, but am willing to learn (and would rather learn and DIY than pay someone else to do it, as I'll learn nothing that way!).

It does start and idle perfectly normally, or at the end of the day if I've driven it to work. But first thing in the morning, particularly if it's damp, it's not happy.

Anything I should check specific to this?

MikeV8SE said:

Thanks guys! I have no idea how to check my ignition and timing, but am willing to learn (and would rather learn and DIY than pay someone else to do it, as I'll learn nothing that way!).

It does start and idle perfectly normally, or at the end of the day if I've driven it to work. But first thing in the morning, particularly if it's damp, it's not happy.

Anything I should check specific to this?

Click to expand...

Yes, your ignition leads and distributor cap. Caps are partcularly prone to moisture build up on the inside, and if the leads are old and beginning to break up/crack, they can easily be affected by high humidity and/or cold wet n frosty mornings. A can of WD40 goes a long way, and should always be carried in the car

i agree with joe. moisture looks like the culprit.

you need to get/borrow a 'strobe light' to check the igntion timing mate.

its a tool of the yesteryear these days, modern igntion systems do not use it. cheap on ebay, but most mechanics will have a dusty version lying in the bottom of their toolbox just wishing for another flash, so you might pick one up easily...

OK, thanks guys. When checking the distributor cap, what am I looking for, just moisture and corrosion? How likely am I to electrocute myself during this process?? ;-)

zero chance. if the engine is running then messing around with HT leads can give you a shock, but this is very high voltage/VERY low ampergae so there is zero chance of fatality.

if you are worried, take the car keys out of the igntion, run upstairs and pop them in your wardrobe, then work on the igntion system.

remember to recover the keys before attempting to start.

cheers

Mr Noisy said:

zero chance. if the engine is running then messing around with HT leads can give you a shock, but this is very high voltage/VERY low ampergae so there is zero chance of fatality.

if you are worried, take the car keys out of the igntion, run upstairs and pop them in your wardrobe, then work on the igntion system.

remember to recover the keys before attempting to start.

cheers

Click to expand...

...and make sure you're not treading oily footprints through the house, and remember which wardrobe you're putting them in!

many folk actually tie a string to the keys in question, and then once the keys are popped in the wardrobe, the string is run downstairs and out to the work area (ensuring no snags along the way)

then once the work is completed, a simple steady, continuous pull on the string will bring the keys directly to the work area, and hey presto! work was completed in a safe manner, no oily footprints throughout the house and no chance of a loss of keys in the wardrobe array.

couldnt be easier mike, honest

Sometimes I don't think you guys take things seriously y'know...

MikeV8SE said:

Sometimes I don't think you guys take things seriously y'know...

Click to expand...

you have to watch out though because if the electrictic reaches you in the wardrobe then you could get shocked to narnia

MikeV8SE said:

Sometimes I don't think you guys take things seriously y'know...

Click to expand...

the information you need is there, yoo just need to unwrap the sheath of banter in which it is contained

From bitter experience I would suggest that you replace the cap, lead, plugs, and the coil with genuine parts, DO NOT buy cheap pattern parts you will regret it!!!!! Next get hold of a timing light and find a mechanic prepared to teach you how to use it. Nearly all starting probs on RV8 are ignition related. Check low tension of ignition, make sure every conection is good clean and tight. If after doing the ignition side you still have a prob post again and I'll give you a list of things to check that old and wiser people taught me.
Cheers Nick

gen rotor and cap in lr box not lucas as they are differnt quality, and magnecore leads too.

could be temp sensor not telling the engine to richen up in the cold start.

and you want to take it to moroco???? your mad! go and buy and 80 series landcruiser before it all goes tits up on you

Thanks for the info guys!

Fett - have faith, it'll be fine! ;-)

lol I aint comin all the way out there to get you in my trooper if it fooks up on ya