Release cheater panel it says....

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
P38 Monkey

P38 Monkey

Well-Known Member
Posts
626
Location
Cambridge
P38 4.0 SE 1997
Just removing the front left front door card ("trim casing") using the official workshop manual but didn't get very far. Stuck on step 1..."release the cheater panel". I don't want to break it, but it seems pretty firmly fixed.
The diagram gives no clue, so a bit of advice on how to safely remove the little triangular blighter would be greatly appreciated...as would any comments on the rest of the task. Thanks...
 
Tweeter panel?

There’s a screw hiding behind it. Gently prises off.

Gently prise it off from inside the door, there’s a screw behind it holding the card on.
(3?) screws on the handle/rest and one in the door pul behind the lever, then the card can be gently ‘popped’ around the edge with the clips that break.(you have been warned ;))
The card comes out and up, over the door lock pin
 
Last edited:
Cheater - tweeter - defo says "cheater panel" several times in the LR manual.
But you are correct - it is really a tweeter panel.
Thanks for the info - that worked 100% fine - metal clip in the middle and long securing tab along the bottom.
Door panel also came off fine - helped by lack of screws in the armrest and half the clips missing....
Now for the fun part.... two reasons for taking the panel off: firstly that some monkey cut the speaker wires to the left side and secondly a locking issue.
On the locking issue:
~ The remote fob locks the rear doors but not the front.
~ The central locking on the driver's door locks it, and the rear doors, but not the passenger door.
~ Pressing the button on the passenger door locks it and the rear doors but not the driver's door.
If I could get the central locking to work on the passenger door that would solve the problem - remote locking can wait.
Is there a possibility that BOTH front solenoids have failed?
In the bottom of the passenger door there are two black wires that have been cut.
There are also two black wires that disappear into a small conduit in the base of the door.
Those latter two wires are connected to black and purple/red wires that go up to the lock.
There are two other wires that are also cut: one black/green stripe and one green/black stripe.
I guess I will (reluctantly) have to remove the lock and check it out.
Any feedback would be most gratefully received...
Mike
1997 P38 4.0 SE ex-Japan
Has coil springs - not my doing!
 
Last edited:
P38 Monkey said:
Cheater - tweeter - defo says "cheater panel" several times in the LR manual.
But you are correct - it is really a tweeter panel.
Thanks for the info - that worked 100% fine - metal clip in the middle and long securing tab along the bottom.
Door panel also came off fine - helped by lack of screws in the armrest and half the clips missing....
Now for the fun part.... two reasons for taking the panel off: firstly that some monkey cut the speaker wires to the left side and secondly a locking issue.
On the locking issue:
~ The remote fob locks the rear doors but not the front.
~ The central locking on the driver's door locks it, and the rear doors, but not the passenger door.
~ Pressing the button on the passenger door locks it and the rear doors but not the driver's door.
If I could get the central locking to work on the passenger door that would solve the problem - remote locking can wait.
Is there a possibility that BOTH front solenoids have failed?
In the bottom of the passenger door there are two black wires that have been cut.
There are also two black wires that disappear into a small conduit in the base of the door.
Those latter two wires are connected to black and purple/red wires that go up to the lock.
There are two other wires that are also cut: one black/green stripe and one green/black stripe.
I guess I will (reluctantly) have to remove the lock and check it out.
Any feedback would be most gratefully received...
Mike
1997 P38 4.0 SE ex-Japan
Has coil springs - not my doing!
Click to expand...
Check on Rave but it sounds to me like the earth wires have been cut but why one should ask. May I ask was this one of those overpriced immaculate imports from a place in York?
 
Oh dear, I am afraid it is. The basics are very good (as new underside, no rust, new exhaust, wheels all as new, good engine etc etc. Details not so clever, as above. Anyway, too far to return it for fixing and I am not convinced that they would correct the issues. Once completed it should be fine. I am retired and have time, and half a century plus of experience looking after British cars and bikes.
 
P38 Monkey said:
Oh dear, I am afraid it is. The basics are very good (as new underside, no rust, new exhaust, wheels all as new, good engine etc etc. Details not so clever, as above. Anyway, too far to return it for fixing and I am not convinced that they would correct the issues. Once completed it should be fine. I am retired and have time, and half a century plus of experience looking after British cars and bikes.
Click to expand...
You'll get plenty of advice and support on here,if you're used to the spanners you'll succeed.;):D
 
So, I took the lock off (NSF) and there would appear to be three relevant cables to drive the solenoid - orange, green, purple. Most likely orange and green as they show 73 ohms, and I guess green most likely to be earth and orange probably +12V. No wiring detail in the workshop manual. Any views on this? Probably no harm in applying 12 volts on that basis but will await responses from the experts... :)
 
P38 Monkey said:
So, I took the lock off (NSF) and there would appear to be three relevant cables to drive the solenoid - orange, green, purple. Most likely orange and green as they show 73 ohms, and I guess green most likely to be earth and orange probably +12V. No wiring detail in the workshop manual. Any views on this? Probably no harm in applying 12 volts on that basis but will await responses from the experts... :)
Click to expand...
It doesn't have a solinoid,there are two small motors inside the latch,the smaller is the superlock motor and the bigger s the lock unlock motor.ther is a check sheet for testing the driver's side microswitches by @martyuk don't remember seeing one for the passenger side latch. I've tagged him hopefully he'll respond, he's in New Zealand at the moment but he looks in now and again, he's our resident lock and electrickery bits expert.Dont put 12v on to any wire the operating voltage is reduced I believe and the motor only operates for a short time so you will burn them out. I always remove the superlock motor from my latches and disable the locking pawl.Superlocking is more bother than its worth.;)
 
If this work it should be Marty`s lock test sheet , i have had to get a new computer so no longer have it to hand to post up
 

Attachments

  • P38 Door Latch Tests.pdf
    90.3 KB · Views: 87
P38 Monkey said:
So, I took the lock off (NSF) and there would appear to be three relevant cables to drive the solenoid - orange, green, purple. Most likely orange and green as they show 73 ohms, and I guess green most likely to be earth and orange probably +12V. No wiring detail in the workshop manual. Any views on this? Probably no harm in applying 12 volts on that basis but will await responses from the experts... :)
Click to expand...

Wiring is in RAVE in the electrical troubleshooting section. DO NOT apply 12V to the motors. The lock actuator motors are massively underrated 5V jobbies that get a tiny pulse to operate them. The pulse spins them very suddenly to a very high speed and a weight is thrown out to activate the locking mechanism.
 
Thanks for the info - as ever it is very useful.
Just looking to get a copy (or access to) RAVE - all sorts of postings about it, in the main about problems.
Is there a guide to accessing RAVE?
I have been using the official LR Workshop Manual, for better or worse.
 
tomcat59alan said:
It must be obvious if I can do it,I hate putors and electrickery.;):D​
Click to expand...

This bl**dy paper stuff is a nightmare. All floppy and the pencil is so thin my gorilla hands struggle to grip it. What was wrong with the slate and stencil or slab and chisel? If it was good enough for my old man it is good enough for me. Mind you, Snowdon would be a lot lower if LZ was all on slate.
 
Last edited:
Grrrrrr said:
This bl**dy paper stuff is a nightmare. All floppy and the pencil is so thin my gorilla hands strugfle to grip it. What was wrong with the slate and stencil or slab and chisel? If it was good enough for my old man it is good enough for me. Mind you, Snowdon would be a lot lower if LZ was all on slate.
Click to expand...
Well I've tried to go paperless and it's been a nightmare, since Monday,, flights ,boarding passes, CPR tests, passenger locator forms,car hire, car hire excess insurance , travel insurance, vaccination certificate and more to come, I've accounted for half a forest in Finland.:eek::rolleyes:
 
A most excellent test - simple enough and very revealing.
CDL motor is close to open circuit (1.5MΩ) so that is one duff motor.
The superlock motor is a bit below the lower end of the tolerance so is probably OK.
While the door card is off I checked what voltage is being sent to the CDL motor on central locking - a very short pulse that my meter showed was a volt or so, but it was over as soon as it began.
Good used latch from East Coast 4x4 is probably the way forward...any favourite used parts suppliers that I should be aware of?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

300bhp/ton
Driven: New Defender - On & Off Road. Is it a Pretender?
2
Replies
29
Views
4K
tottot
tottot
Steve Noakes
My 110 1995 300tdi
2
Replies
28
Views
5K
Joss155
Joss155
Dr_evil
Series King Cab
61 62 63
Replies
1K
Views
116K
discomark10
discomark10
The Mad Hat Man
Frequently asked questions
Replies
7
Views
3K
stownrow
stownrow
Back
Top