Rear hub leaking...

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davek0974

davek0974

Well-Known Member
Posts
4,848
Location
Bishops Stortford, Herts.
Hi all, so while i'm waiting for parts for the front end i thought i'd compile the next shoping list:(:(

The N/S rear hub is ****ing oil over the brakes and i'm told this is not good. Would this list be about right?

Inner oil seal,
Outer oil seal,
Flange gasket,
Lock washer,

I was just going to do pads but then i saw this price..
BRAKEKIT4 Rear Discs and Pads Kit - Disco 1
And thought why not fit the lot? Is it any good, sems a bloody good price?? I'm not sure if my pads have wear indicator sensors??

Would i likely need new caliper bolts too??

Dave
 
why not do your wheel bearings while you are there? , Timken OEM sets are about £20

caliper bolts will be in tight and locktited down, I had to use these: [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-Bolt-Grip-Remover-394001/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=diy&qid=1285087297&sr=8-3]Irwin Bolt Grip Remover 5PC Base set 394001: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools[/ame]
to get one of my bolts off,
 
This jobs adding up the ££ to fast i feel.

I started off doing the track-rod ends, rusted up-new track rod, noticed the steering damper was duff-new damper, spotted the rear A/roll bar links were shot-new links and bolts, noticed the oil leak-new pads, seals, etc

It started out as a really simple job and she's been off road far too long now, still waiting for parts to come:(:(

I'll re-pack the bearings this time round.
 
Whats a good way to set the hub endplay??

The manual states to tighten stage 1 = 61Nm then back off and retighten stage 2 = 4Nm.

Stage 1 is easy but my torque wrench wont go anywhere near 4Nm as its too low, is there a manual way to do this, i dont want seized bearings etc ?

Thanks

Dave
 
Welcome to land rover! :)

Make sure shagged discs don't knacker new pads.

You probs won't need new bolts but best to have in case.

Wash out bearings, refit, new seals job done. If you find a shot bearing you MUST replace it though. I like to do them in axle pairs tbh.

On 300 hubs I usually tighten to first setting, back off, tighten nut as best as possible just by hand with the socket, then fit washer and second nut and tighten. Hubs should have no play, should turn smooth and not feel notchy, just with the tinyest bit of resistance.

Cheers.
 
Yeah thats pretty much what i thought to do, but good to know.

The discs dont look bad at all, slight rust ring around rim but not scored or grooved. I'll scrub the oil off and refit them, no sense in wasting money.

Dave
 
If the discs are smooth across the face then i find it good practice just to quickly run the grinder round them to shave off the edge lips, and then clean em up and bang em back on.

also its a good idea to unclip the brake pipe down the whole length of the axle, gives you more scope to move the caliper away without bending the pipe.

you can tell if your pads have sensors if theres any wires coming out of one of the pads, probably the drivers side.

sometimes the plugs just get cut off at the axle so theres no use in getting sensor pads.

ive just spent ages trying to find a plug for the rear of my 200 shape, so that i can remake the rear sensor loom (plug was missing and wires were rotten)

it's handy to have sensors cos pads last a few hundred miles off road tops :(

cheers, sam :D
 
All done, they only have the inner hub seal, the bearings were fine, new pads fitted, took 3 hours.

The old seals were pressed in way too far which was not helping, one hub nut was loose and not locked up, no gaskets on the half-shafts, some people just should not be let near cars.

Sorted, thanks for all the advice.
Dave
 
Good job well done mate.

Yeah it always helps when things are put back together the way they should be.

A lot of folk cannot get they're head round old skool taper bearings these days, I remember my disco had an assortment of methods on the wheel bearings.

Now they are all the same, no leaks, and no water ingress.

Simples :D
 
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