Prop replacement

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GerryN

Active Member
Posts
184
Location
North hampshire
Right The props and centre Bearing? are missing on my 2005 Freelander 1 TD4 but the flanges are there for bolting on the said props. The guy I bought it from thought he had got an AWD when he purchased it. He did not have the propshafts, do I gamble and have a new set fitted, or do I try and find a 2nd hand set of props but new centre bearing just in case I have other issues on installing said props. What sort of costs are talking about for buying props and getting a garage to fit?
 
You need to understand more before you do anything.

There is no "center bearing" - there are 2 support bearings and there is a Viscous Coupling Unit (VCU) separating the props.

And yes, there are a number of things to be careful of and possible large costs.

You need to read through 1 of the various threads on doing this. Search, either in the LZ site or Google of LZ, is your friend.

I don't know if you can get new pops. If you can they'd be bloody expensive for something that may need other expensive bits making it prohibitive to do anyway. You are looking at 2nd hand props and probably new support bearings and a reconditioned VCU. You could bolt them on and see if it works, first making sure you have exactly matching (make & model) tyres. It may work, it may not and it may smash your IRD case. It depends on why the props were removed.
 
Hi, you can't buy new anymore (unless you can find new old stock). The props/VCU/hangers etc were available as a complete assy. P/no TVB000170 only £4,360.94 !
Second hand is the obvious choice you might get lucky with a good comp. unit but otherwise be prepared to get a recon. VCU, (Bell Engineering is your best bet) new hangers & maybe having to put new uj's on the props. Make sure you get the 6 bolts & plates that hold the fr. prop. to the IRD as I don't think they're available anymore.
Having said all that do you know the IRD is OK? People remove the props if the IRD is failing but as it can still be driven w/o the props they tend to sell the vehicle quickly to people who aren't familiar with them (I'm thinking the previous owner) to avoid big bills later. I hope this isn't the case for you, best of luck.
 
Hi,

Check the IRD first. Renew the oil to see if there is no metal parts. The refill plug should be undone first.
You can also rise the 2 front wheels, and turn the flange to check if there is no strange noise.

There is no reason that the IRD fails except if the vehicle get overlooked.

Ragards.
 
Last edited:
GrumpyGel said:
You need to understand more before you do anything.

There is no "center bearing" - there are 2 support bearings and there is a Viscous Coupling Unit (VCU) separating the props.

And yes, there are a number of things to be careful of and possible large costs.

You need to read through 1 of the various threads on doing this. Search, either in the LZ site or Google of LZ, is your friend.

I don't know if you can get new pops. If you can they'd be bloody expensive for something that may need other expensive bits making it prohibitive to do anyway. You are looking at 2nd hand props and probably new support bearings and a reconditioned VCU. You could bolt them on and see if it works, first making sure you have exactly matching (make & model) tyres. It may work, it may not and it may smash your IRD case. It depends on why the props were removed.
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Are they ok as 2 wheel drive the cost is to much as to change to awd I am 64 wife 66 just want something to tow caravan
 
GerryN said:
Are they ok as 2 wheel drive the cost is to much as to change to awd I am 64 wife 66 just want something to tow caravan
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I think they drive better as an AWD, especially if you often pull out of junctions where decent acceleration is needed. The FL1 and FL2 for that matter are quite capable of spinning a front wheel in a quick 2Wad getaway. Obviously towing on grass is less trouble if the AWD is working correctly too.
I'm driving my FL2 as a FWD at the moment (Haldex trouble), and it's definitely very easy to spin the wheels even with moderate power usage.
 
Nodge68 said:
I think they drive better as an AWD, especially if you often pull out of junctions where decent acceleration is needed. The FL1 and FL2 for that matter are quite capable of spinning a front wheel in a quick 2Wad getaway. Obviously towing on grass is less trouble if the AWD is working correctly too.
I'm driving my FL2 as a FWD at the moment (Haldex trouble), and it's definitely very easy to spin the wheels even with moderate power usage.
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so do you think I should buy 2nd hand prop shaft and bolts etc
 
GerryN said:
so do you think I should buy 2nd hand prop shaft and bolts etc
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First off, you need to make sure the IRD is in good health. Simply checking what the oil in there looks like is a good indication of its condition.
Then you need to make sure it has 4 matching tyres fitted, with the least worn on the rear.

After both those conditions are satisfied then you can look at getting a replacement set of props and VCU, but be aware that the VCU will need checking to make sure it's serviceable, and then fit a new pair of bearings for reliability.
 
GerryN said:
Thanks Nodge we think we might leave it as front wheel drive. What are your thoughts on this?(we only drive on country/town roads)
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There are plenty of FL1s driving around as FWD. Just remember that to most insurers, conversion to FWD is a notifiable modification, which some insurers will charge extra to cover, some not charge at all, and other's refuse to cover the vehicle. Obviously if it's going to cost extra to insure, it needs to be compared to how much it'll cost to reinstall the AWD.
I'm sure some owners of 2WD Freelanders haven't told their insurers at all, but only you can decide to do that, as you could potentially be driving a vehicle that the insurance might not cover, should they subsequently find out about the modification.
 
Nodge68 said:
There are plenty of FL1s driving around as FWD. Just remember that to most insurers, conversion to FWD is a notifiable modification, which some insurers will charge extra to cover, some not charge at all, and other's refuse to cover the vehicle. Obviously if it's going to cost extra to insure, it needs to be compared to how much it'll cost to reinstall the AWD.
I'm sure some owners of 2WD Freelanders haven't told their insurers at all, but only you can decide to do that, as you could potentially be driving a vehicle that the insurance might not cover, should they subsequently find out about the modification.
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I see IF we did go down the road off putting it back to awd I would have to let the garage I use do it, Iam 64 now and at 4ft 3 inches tool with a couple of discs in me back gone and a colliod cyst to contend with I could not do it, I would need a prop,Ihave seen a complete prop with vcu which the owner says its all good about £100 I would also have to source a complete fitting kit -tork bolts nuts etc the tyres are all the same BF goodridge- pardon spelling all with same amount of wear on,The garage i use do me a discount, So it might not be all that expensive? your thoughts please?
 
GerryN said:
I see IF we did go down the road off putting it back to awd I would have to let the garage I use do it, Iam 64 now and at 4ft 3 inches tool with a couple of discs in me back gone and a colliod cyst to contend with I could not do it, I would need a prop,Ihave seen a complete prop with vcu which the owner says its all good about £100 I would also have to source a complete fitting kit -tork bolts nuts etc the tyres are all the same BF goodridge- pardon spelling all with same amount of wear on,The garage i use do me a discount, So it might not be all that expensive? your thoughts please?
Click to expand...
Nodge I have tracked down a complete prop shaft front to back with recent carrier bearing replaced for £200 and it is local to me I was thinking of purchasing it as my ird may be fine, but if not at least I will have a prop ready for fitting.
 
GerryN said:
Nodge I have tracked down a complete prop shaft front to back with recent carrier bearing replaced for £200 and it is local to me I was thinking of purchasing it as my ird may be fine, but if not at least I will have a prop ready for fitting.
Click to expand...
Just check before buying it that it's not off the V6 FL1 as I'm pretty sure the VCU is different (I'm not sure about the front & rear propshafts themselves but if they are the same you will just need to get a FL1 1.8 or TD4 VCU).
 
Andy Warren said:
Just check before buying it that it's not off the V6 FL1 as I'm pretty sure the VCU is different (I'm not sure about the front & rear propshafts themselves but if they are the same you will just need to get a FL1 1.8 or TD4 VCU).
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This.
If the VCU has a damper on it, then it'll be fine (the V6 doesn't have the damper).
 
GerryN said:
found onecomplete with new carrier bearings and no other probs when removed £200 complete
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I have just paid £90 discounted for two original central bearings so 🤷‍♂️ £200 seams expensive but new bearings and I take that it’s complete with all fixing ? If you brake it down it’s not to bad really
 
According to the LR parts list the front & rear props are the same for ALL models it's just, as @Nodge68 says, the V6 is different as it doesn't have the damper on it & it looks like all the bolts are available again.
 
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