D2 new front prop shaft and grease question

I’m working hard to get my old girl back on the road. Have done R380, LT230 and diffs oil changes today. Hopefully head for MOT soon but for now she’s expired and SORNED.

Mine still has the original sealed for life double cardan UJ’s. 2004 with 58k on the clock. I’m a driveway mechanic so don’t have the workshop or kit to start changing UJ’s and the centre DC bearing.

Just wondering if anyone here has fitted a “Driveline” prop, fully greaseable and going on their eBay pics they use end cap grease nipples rather than centre;

I don’t need a Gwynn Lewis prop but I equally want something half decent and better than Britshart.

Links to their website and eBay listing:



Is Morris K48 still the best grease for props?

At 54K yours should still be good for at least another 50k.
It is probably possible to take it off and drill and tap holes for nipples that you can replace with grub screws once the job is done. if you are that bothered, and as tight as I am!!
I tried testing mine on the car, it seemed OK but took it off just to make sure and it wasn't, on just one joint.
Replaced with good secondhand, good as gold. and all this at about 150k.

EDIT. Realised that you won't be doing any stripping down, drilling tapping rebuilding etc etc. OK.But the rest still holds.

I’m clearing up a couple of old threads.

Used Morris K48, greased the sliders OK. Front prop/diff only showed grease at 1 cup. Rear prop/transfer box only showed grease at 2 cups.

Will try again after a good long run, she’s back on the road on the 1st.

The problem with grease and nipples is that the grease will move through the parts of the object where there is a gap and the grease isn't hard, but it won't soften the hard grease which simply stays caked in there.
To do the job really properly, they need to be dismantled and reassembled after cleaning out the old grease.

Stanleysteamer said:

The problem with grease and nipples is that the grease will move through the parts of the object where there is a gap and the grease isn't hard, but it won't soften the hard grease which simply stays caked in there.
To do the job really properly, they need to be dismantled and reassembled after cleaning out the old grease.

Click to expand...

Indeed.

As I’ve still got the original front prop with sealed UJ’s to the double cardan maybe it’s time to upgrade.

Same for rear to possibly upgrade to non rubber donut!