Poor starting, rough running & cutting out TD5

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Clanforbes

New Member
Posts
1,503
Location
Perthshire
Well, my tuppence worth on the subject of oily harness and ECM plug woes.

When I got my beastie a couple of months back it very quickly developed the typical "oil in the red plug" lurgy. After I joined this forum and found out about it I dutifully replaced the harness and kept flushing the plug with de-greaser until no more oil appeared. As mentioned above, it's an easy enough job to do. Sadly, although the engine did run better when it was going, it didn't cure my problem. My beastie would cut out, especially if left idling for a while and I also noticed that my interior light never seemed to work from the door switches when this had happened. I searched for weeks trying to solve this, new MAF - no difference (old one was gubbed anyway) cleaned everything electrical in sight all sensors cleaned thoroughly - no difference, complete set of filters and new oils etc. - no difference, stripped out my 10AS alarm ECU (the interior light is part of the circuit) and checked it all out very carefully - no difference, I even resorted to stripping out the roof lining so I could trace all the wiring for the interior light. At this point I found a crack in the metal strip which is used to earth the light via the alarm ECU & door switches - no difference. Today I cut the three wires off the alarm ECU and joined then so I have an interior light working from the doors - no difference. Finally, I checked the red plug again - bone dry and spotless BUT while I was doing this, I happened to notice that there are two blue multi-connectors under the seat beside the ECM. One is connected to a bunch of wires in the harness for the black plug and the other is similarly connected to the harness for the red plug. It was completely saturated with black gungie oil. A quick spray of de-greaser and put everything back together again (including nice clean roof-lining, alarm ECU, all my door switches, most of the dashboard and instrument panel etc. etc. Now, I am very happy to say, she is running like a dream, she is soo smooth, responsive & quiet. It's almost like an entirely different vehicle.

So the moral of my tale is........................


DON'T JUST CLEAN THE RED PLUG, OPEN UP THE BLUE HEADER CONNECTOR AND CLEAN ALL THE SH!T OUT OF THAT TOO.


At this point I would like to say thank you to all the members here who offered opinions, ideas, advice and suggestions, there were many, but an especially huge big public thank you goes out to Shifty for his patience and advice (mostly done by email - he even responded when he was on holiday) and to Ratty, he was the other one that was instrumental in me finally solving it.

You two are worth your weight in gold, thank you both so very much.

Ron.
 
Awwww crap, I spoke too soon. It has cut out on me again today. Everything had been running so well and I was in such a good mood I decided to fot my EGR blanking kit and check the codes on my injectors. So I opened up the rocker cover and wrote the codes down, then stripped out the old EGR valve and bit of pipe I no longer need, fitted kit and fired her up again. She'd been ticking over for about 15 to 20 minutes or so as I checked for oil leaks from the rocker cover etc. and she was sounding sweet and I decided to celebrate by having a cuppa tea before I took her for another test run.

Went up to my flat and had my cuppa, took my Haweye down to check the codes in the ECM for the injectors and found they were nothing like the codes I wrote down. I programmed in the proper codes, checked and double checked them then went to start her up to go for a wander and she wouldn't start. Same thing as before, turns over and fires, but won't run. Checked for any error codes and got the same as always when she doesn't wanna go, Injector 1 Peak Charge Long - Logged (same for the other 4 too.)

So it looks like I'm back to square one. HELP!!!
 
Awwww crap, I spoke too soon. It has cut out on me again today. Everything had been running so well and I was in such a good mood I decided to fot my EGR blanking kit and check the codes on my injectors. So I opened up the rocker cover and wrote the codes down, then stripped out the old EGR valve and bit of pipe I no longer need, fitted kit and fired her up again. She'd been ticking over for about 15 to 20 minutes or so as I checked for oil leaks from the rocker cover etc. and she was sounding sweet and I decided to celebrate by having a cuppa tea before I took her for another test run.

Went up to my flat and had my cuppa, took my Haweye down to check the codes in the ECM for the injectors and found they were nothing like the codes I wrote down. I programmed in the proper codes, checked and double checked them then went to start her up to go for a wander and she wouldn't start. Same thing as before, turns over and fires, but won't run. Checked for any error codes and got the same as always when she doesn't wanna go, Injector 1 Peak Charge Long - Logged (same for the other 4 too.)

So it looks like I'm back to square one. HELP!!!

will it start and run if you give it a quick squirt of easy start or carb cleaner prior to starting?
 
Hi Ratty,

To be honest I don't know. I hate to put that quickstart (junglejuice as I've always called it) near any deisel engine.

I am wondering if it's because I've changed all 5 of my injector codes at the same time. Is there any "special" routine for entering new injector codes into your ECM?

I'm gonna try to put the old codes back and see if that will make any difference, but before I do anything, I just want to verify that it is definately the same fault as I had before. By trying to start her by doing nothing for a couple of days.

In the past, she has always died on me shortly after being left on tick over for a while. But on this occasion, I'd had her running and everything was as normal, but I switched her off before I went for tea. Then I re-wrote the new codes to the ECM and now she will not start. I'm thinking, nae fervently hoping, that this is something new and not my old problem still there, but I suspect that is just wishful thinking.

Thanks for your response,

Ron.
 
Also, what exactly do I need to check fuel pressure on my TD5?
I think I'll buy whatever kit I need for this as I have no way of checking at the moment.

Cheers,

Ron.
 
1.Try to purge the fuel system......procedure in RAVE
2.Are u sure your fuel pump is working properly?
3.Injector washers and seals(that's a hard one)......search forum on this.
 
So long as the ECU accepted the new injector codes and you can read them back OK it does not really matter what codes are in there in order for the engine to run. The codes are just a method of fine tuning the ECU to each injector.
Should not matter if you did them one at a time or all five at the same time. I did mine all together with no problems.
Maybe you have a poltergeist ???
 
Poltergeist, polterbloodygeist. I'll give it something tae put a bloody poultice on if I catch it!!! :lvkiss-106:

Lol.

I so want to go back down and try to re-set the codes back to what they were, even though I'm sure that it will make no difference. But, on the other hand I want to wait the usual "anything up to the normal two days" or so to see if she'll start up as usual, if I do that then I know it's still the same problem I've always had. She was running so well before I switched her off and put the new codes in.

Yep, the codes were accepted and I could read them back no problem.

If I wasn't so darned determined to sort it myself I'd just stick it into a garage to get done, but it could take weeks to get it back and it could cost a lot of money for parts that didn't make any difference before they found the cure too!

Presently, if it turns out to be the same old problem, I would like to rule out my ECM and 10AS. I'm toying with the idea of asking someone like TD5Alive if they can supply me with one of each already set to talk to each other and mapped for my 2000 Defender 110. Do you know if this is possible or do they need to be set-up in situ in the vehicle?

Anyway, it's time for bed for me as I am starting work a bit earlier than usual this evening.

Thanks for your responses once again folks.

Ron.
 
Why not give Gary a call? He's a helpful type of bloke. After all business is business.
Presently, if it turns out to be the same old problem, I would like to rule out my ECM and 10AS. I'm toying with the idea of asking someone like TD5Alive if they can supply me with one of each already set to talk to each other and mapped for my 2000 Defender 110. Do you know if this is possible or do they need to be set-up in situ in the vehicle?
 
Yeah, I reckon I'm going to have to give someone a call because I have run out of ideas on this one.

The only things I haven't done is checked the fuel pressure, nor have I replaced the fuel pump - though I have no reason to suspect either as the pump seems to do what it's supposed to - and replace the 10AS & engine ECM.

I already started an email to TD5 Alive but gave up as it was turning into yet another epic tale as described the symtoms and everything I'd tried so far. Probably a telephone call would make more sense.

Cheers once again.

Ron.
 
Finally, I am sure I have solved it.

The insulation on the wiring for the CKP sensor plug had become brittle, cracked and a little bit had fallen away. The wires were a little twisted when the plug was on and the missing insulation was allowing an intermittant short circuit. Infact, I found later that my temporary repair and re-fitting the plug had resulted in one of the wires breaking off altogether, right at the back of the plug. So I have had to hack away a bit of the plastic plug and temporarily solder in an extension until I get a replacement plug from the breakers yard.

The grief & frustration this has caused me over the past three months or so since I bought the beastie doesn't bear telling, but I have it sorted now, I'm sure of it.

The epic is finally closed.

Ron.
 
OK,

It's a couple of days later and TheBus is doing great. So here's a complete re-cap for anyone else who gets plagued with anything similar, here's the complete breakdown of everything I'd done for future reference. I retell the entire story as it shows how easy it is to overlook something.

I bought TheBus on Ebay on 30 July 2010 and drove her the 108 miles home. Gearbox was a bit sloppy but apart from the she was a lovely big beastie.

The following week-end I put her up a big set of ramps to make a start on cleaning underneath - soon abandoned this for other reasons and on the way home I started to lose gears.

Eventually, the gearbox got stuck in 1st gear and I tried to limp slowly home as I only had 2½ miles to go. There was a loud screeching noise of metal on metal and I stopped to do a quick investigation. Nothing hanging off or spewing fluids so I persevered and limped on. Very shortly after she came to a dead stop and wouldn't even start. Engine gave all indications of being seized. Wouldn't turn over even in neutral and/or with clutch down. While I was waiting for my tow coming with hazards on, I happened to change the cd in the player and I managed to blow a fuse. This was re-placed but the blew again when I touched the cd. So I left it. I happened to notice though that my interior light had also ceased to light with the door switches.

I was convinced that I'd probably murdered the gearbox or engine or even both and was dreading finding out what had happened. Got towed home by a nephew and approached a local independent (father & son) garage who mostly does Landies and have (the father having 50+ years experience.) They agreed to tow it in for me and see what was what. A couple of weeks later I got her back (they were very busy) and it turned out the screech was the top pulley on the drive belt had given up the ghost and the jammed gearbox was the infamous loose grub screw. I was aware of an oil leak near the hand brake drum so I'd asked them to check that too and check/re-fill my diffs etc.

When I went in to pay the £304 bill, I was talking to the son and he told me that when they went to collect her off the street they had hooked up the tow rope but he turned the key to see what was going on and she fired up immediately, so he drove her in, in 1st gear etc. This surprised me a lot because she wouldn't even turn over for me at the time of the breakdown & the old man mentioned that my viscous coupling was seized solid - harmless, but noisy, so I ordered a 2nd hand one of Ebay. Anyway, I got her back with new brake shoes on the hand brake (oil contaminated,) new gear box flange seal and new pulley fitted.

Next things I started on was to give her a full service and make a start on fitting some chequered plate, new headlights, spotlights and a replacement viscous coupling & fan.

Short version of the first time she died for no apparent reason was when I'd been setting my new headlights. She had been sitting pointing at a church wall with the engine running for about ½ an hour or so (I'd put some insulating tape on the wall to mark the original beam height etc.) Just as I was about finished, a youngish lad turned up with a defender 90 and started chatting to me. I gave him my old headlight units 'coz his were rusted badly and I got ready to drive off. I reversed back from the wall and went to drive off and she stalled. Now, at this point I have to say, I had stalled her two or three times as I went to move off and I'd just put it down to the incredibly stiff and sticky clutch pedal. But this time she refused to start. I assumed I'd upset her electrics with all my effing about under the bonnet playing with the wiring and I did a very technical wiggling of everything electrical I could see. She still didn't want to go straight away, but I got her started after about ½ an hour of wiggling and prodding all the wiring harnesses and connectors.

I joined this forum and found out about the "oil in the loom" lurgy. So I got some de-greaser aerosols from work and set about cleaning out the red plug and everything seemed a lot better. So, I fitted a new genuine LR replacement injector loom that week-end and repeatedly cleaned out the plug until no more oil appeared. Great stuff, problem solved - yeah right!

Next was the fan. A couple of days later, same church car park. The fan took a bit of effort to get off and I spend a fair bit of time hammering at the nut to loosen it. I'd been under the mis-understanding that it was a left-handed thread, but it turned out the TD5 is a normal right-handed thread for the viscous coupling. This wee job done and engine left idling to heat up while I checked the operation of the replacement coupling. I went to drive off and as my foot touched the throttle she cut out. This time I hadn't even got her into gear. So, I confidently wiggled and prodded everything in sight, but had to get towed home in the end. Eventually found that all my banging about must have tripped the fuel cut off on the bulkhead.

Next day was a trip to Dundee for a workshop manual and some relays. On the way back I'd sat at a junction for about 5 to 10 minutes waiting to get out onto a very busy dual carriageway. She died about 200 yards along the road. Another bout of wiggling and she started up again, but this time only for about 100 yards or so, then dead. More wiggling and I got a ¼ of a mile further before she died but she wouldn't go no further no matter how much I wiggled. I'd pretty much drained the battery by this time so once I got towed home yet again, I took the battery out and put it on the trickle charger. Due to work, I had no spare time to look at her until the following week-end. I re-fitted the battery and she started up 1st turn of the key.......... Strange, I'd done nothing except get towed home.

Now, I have to say, that when she is running, she runs very well, maybe a little rough before I'd put the injector loom on, but she always started immediately on 1st turn of the key, if she was gonna start at all, that is.

So next time she died, I decided I wanted to leave her standing without touching anything for a couple of days because I'd remembered that the garage had said she started for them 1st turn of the key. This done and sure enough, she fired up like a good un two days later. Ah hah, I had a cunning plan now. Get her to breakdown upon demand and find a quick way to get her going again. Then concentrate on finding the cause.

So, come the week-end, I sat out in the street listening to ClassicFM and smoking while my engine ticked over and at last she died on me. I locked her up and went about my normal everyday life for two days. She started first time. Next, I got her to die once again and this time I tried to start her after 12 hours - no go, 24 hours - no go, 36 hours - no go, 48 hours and off she went. Good, I'm getting closer. But, try what I might, I couldn't get her to start any quicker for ages. Then one day she died after only 4 minutes and started up a few seconds later. Different, I thought, it usually takes at least 15 minutes for her to die & two days to re-start. This was when I noticed that my interior light had stopped working off the door switches again. Just like the very first time I had to be towed in with the jammed gearbox.

After a lot of re-search, I found the interior light was part of the 10AS security ECU circuitry and this got me to thinking it was the immobiliser that was somehow kicking in and killing the engine. I spent, nae WASTED, a hell of a lot of time going down this route but all to no avail, in the end she would die as before. If anything, it was getting slightly worse.

Now, anyone who has ever tried to track an intermittent fault like this will know how frustrating it can be. I spend absolute ages trying to get my light going and even stripped out the headling, which was when I found a broken metal strip in the light unit. This repaired and everything back together and I was convinced I'd cured it at long last, somehow the light was confusing the 10AS and it was immobilising the engine. I should have found this sooner because so many people would state, with great alacrity and confidence "It's yer immobiliser mate" as soon as I mentioned my problem. She even sat on idle for more than two hours, while I dutifully smoked & chilled out to ClassicFM. I mention smoking only because I'd recently started smoking again after being off ciggies for almost 10 years, but I'd been angry at myself for starting smoking again and I was planning on making an effort to stop again which I'd implemented about the same time I'd bought TheBus.

Two days later she died again - Aww Fnck it!!!! - now what, same fault or something new?

Somewhere in amongst all this, I'd bought a Hawkeye diagnostics and, although it was useful, it didn't help me get to the bottom of the problem.

So, I started from scratch. First, ascertained it was the same problem and not something new. Waited two days and she started ok. Right, same problem. Needless to say, I'd cleaned just about everything I could find in the way of electrical connectors and sensors - no difference. New MAF sensor - I was getting funny voltages on this - no difference. EGR blanking kit - no difference. Stripped out the ECM & 10AS ECU, opened them and found nothing untoward - no difference. Checked & rechecked my injector harness - no difference. Found & cleaned out filthy oil in the CKP sensor plug and the blue header connector under the seat beside the ECM thougth I'd got it for a few days, but - no difference. Decided to re-place the CKP sensor in case oil had gotten inside it so ordered a cheapie on Ebay. It arrived during the week and when I'd bought the EGR blanking kit, I'd also won an inlet manifold on Ebay, with the intention of cleaning it all up before fitting it with the EGR blanking kit, but it took so long to get here I just fitted the kit while I was waiting. So by last week-end (Saturday 23rd October) now, almost three months down the line from when I bought TheBus. I had her towed to my nephew's car port armed with my new CKP sensor, immaculately cleaned intake manifold and new gasket. By this time, I couldn't get her to start off the key at all, or if she did I couldn't move her for fear of her cutting out. On the way down I bump started her (battery was very low) and she drove the rest of the way herself. I left her running for a while to help the battery and in the hope that she would cut out, but on this occasion she decided to behave and just kept grinning at me, mockingly, as she idled away happily.

So, I switched her off, disconnected the battery and stuck it on the charger while I was working. Took the bonnet off and set about whipping the manifold off - much to my surprise, I found that every one of the bolts on the manifold were no more than hand tightened. I didn't have to use any ratchet to loosen them, simply undid them all by hand with a socket and short extension. Yes, I have strong fingers and hands, but not THAT bloody strong! Anyway, all every sensor and all the connectors got sprayed with de-greaser aerosol and then the CKP sensor disconnected, the plug got thoroughly flushed out with de-greaser. At this point (I got a much better look at things with the manifold off) I noticed that the wires for the CKP sensor had become brittle and a little of the insulation at the end just behind the plug seemed to have fallen off one wire and the other was cracked enough to expose the copper underneath. Also, the wires were twisted in such a way that they were crossing over each other. At long bloody last, I had actually found something that was at fault, up until this, after everything I'd tried for the past three months I had never ever found anything that I could say was faulty or "out-of-place," apart from the oil in everything & the cracked metal strip on the interior light fitting. So, I carefully stripped off a bit of insulation from a spare bit of wire, sliced it lengthways to make a sleeve I could slip over the bare wires and taped in place with insulting tape. This done I fitted the new sensor and re-build everything else. Confidently turned the key and was ready to shout TTTAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAA to my nephew and his son with an overly exaggerated flourish - yep you guessed it, she wouldn't start. So, with my chin dragging the ground, we pushed her out of the drive and towed her to try a bump start but she was totally stone dead. Nothing, nada, not even a hiccough. So now what the Fnck?

Anyway, after about ½ an hour of despondent leaning on the wing top staring at space with my face pointing towards the engine bay - minus the bonnet - standing out on the road at my nephew's house. I was so close to giving it all up as a bad joke. But as a last-ditch attempt I decided to put the old CKP sensor back in 'coz I had noticed tiny, tiny little bit of free play in the body of the replacement which wasn't there in the original one (the new one was a cheapie after all.) So I sent my nephew's boy up the driveway to get me an 8mm socket, short extension and ratchet, while I wiggled my big fat hands down into the wee space and pulled the plug off. I took one cursory glance at the plug and lo and behold, one of the brittle wires at the back of the plug had broken clean off, right as it disappears into the plug body. It must have happened when I was re-fitting the manifold and moving things about to get at the bolts. A quick hack at the plastic at the back of the plug to expose enough wire to work with and with my nephew lying stretched out over the top of the engine holding the wires for me (workspace very limited in there when the manifold is in place) and a very quick temporary solder job and a little kitchen foil wrapped round my temp repair to screen it (the original wiring is screened to prevent interference) and that has been seen to.

I just couldn't have taken another failure so my nephew's 10-year old son was instructed to switch the key on, then wait until the yellow picture of a spring on the dashboard goes out and turn the starter. I stood with my hands held in an attitude of prayer, my heart in my mouth & tears very close to my eyes (couldn't pull any more hair out 'coz I'd already run out a couple of weeks ago.)

Yep, she burst into life with the 1st turn of the keyand has been running like a trojan ever since, I know it's only two days later as I type this up. I know I have said, at least thrice times, before that I'd solved it. But this time I know she's finally sorted.
How do I know for sure this time?
That's an easy one to answer, when she is sitting idling and smiling at me mockingly, I am smiling back at her too.

An epic tale I know, but it just might help to inspire someone else not to give up, or even better, it might help solve someone else's problems too. I certainly hope it does.

Oh and finally. The real moral of this tale is? ..................................................................................................

Listen to Shifty's advice. A very, very, very long time ago, he, and only he ever, mentioned the CKP sensor. I'd been too bloody lazy to give it more than a cursory glance until I was so desperate to find the problem that I was almost in tears with frustration.

..................................................................................................

But, in the process of finding this, I got to know a hell of a lot about my 2001 Defender 110 TD5 - now affectionately (once again) known as TheBus.

My best regards to everyone who has offered help and advice on this over the months. But one more big thankyou to Shifty, if you had been within arms reach on Saturday afternoon, I would have embarrassed us both by giving you one ****ing big hug and a full blown kiss on the mouth (it's ok, I'm not gay & I did get over the impulse very quickly, instead I went home with a fish supper and cracked open a bottle of wine to celebrate.)

:) Ron :)
 
My best regards to everyone who has offered help and advice on this over the months. But one more big thankyou to Shifty, if you had been within arms reach on Saturday afternoon, I would have embarrassed us both by giving you one ****ing big hug and a full blown kiss on the mouth .....
:) Ron :)
Advice is free - sexual favours cost :hug:
One day we'll have a beer and you're buying.
 
Once again I spoke too soon. She eventually died again. So, as a last-ditch attempt to finally cure it, I had a weeks holiday coming up and during this time I stripped out the entire fuel system. Then I fitted new injector seals and washers, a new fuel pressure regulator, a new genuine LR fuel filter and a new fuel pump. I purged the air out of the fuel system for about 15 to 20 minutes before trying to start her up, then came the moment of truth. Yep, you guessed it, she wouldn't start. A quick tow along the road just to give her every chance in the world and about 50 yards down the road I realised I'd forgotten to re-connect the plug for the injector harness to the main loom. I won't bother to tell you what I called myself for my stupidity, as I don't want to be kicked off the forum. Then, much to my relief, first turn of the engine and away she went. It's now almost a week later and very nearly 500 miles of trouble-free sweet running.

So what was the cause?

Easy. When I dropped the tank and took out the fuel pump, I found the filter gauze to be about 50% clogged with slime and gunk. There were also a couple of biggish lumps floating around in the tank. I'm guessing that one of these lumps was occasionally getting trapped in the base of the tank when the vehicle is standing still on levelish ground (hence the dying when ticking over for a while) then it would take a reasonable length of time for fuel to get past the blockage and allow things to come up to pressure (hence the two day delay in re-starting.)

Now, the thing is, my original fuel pump was not in the least noisy, nor did it give any real sign of any problems, so when I pulled the filter gauze off it, I wasn't amazed to find a biggish lump of gunk loose inside here too. I'm guessing that this was able to block the fuel intake on the low pressure side of the pump resulting in fuel starvation.

However, the new fuel pump is almost completely silent, I had to listen hard to hear if it was still running once the purging was completed. Anyway, while I had the tank out, I cut a 215mm diameter hole in the floor (I choose this size to match the dimensions of an eight inch deck hatch I bought on Ebay) so I now have easy access to my fuel pump in future, will be very handy when I plumb in my Eberspacher night heater or test the old pump once I've stripped it and re-built it - I wanna see the innards mostly for educational purposes but also to see just how much gunk might be in there, if any.

So, now I'm just waiting for the snow which has closed the A93 today, just about 30 miles north of me to come a little closer ! !

I have been so afraid of saying this for the past week or so (every time I've said it before now has been a false alarm,) but I seem to have finally solved the problem at long last.

Ron.
 
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I didn't find it that difficult, I stuck it up on ramps, whipped out the 8 bolts, including the tow bar supports and my nephew's 13 year old boy got underneath with his legs and arms up to lower it to the ground (I'm far too fat to fit like that now-a-days,) but dropping the tank had the advantage of being able to slap on loads of underseal round the chassis bit that you normally couldn't reach.

But yeah, God bless the holy floor 'coz it'll make life a lot simpler (and quicker) next time.

R
 
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