allanw
Active Member
- Posts
- 181
- Location
- NORTH YORKSHIRE
Does anyone know if early P38 o/s front door lock assy. is same as fitted to MGF? They are far cheaper and available on line.
P38 / MGF DOOR LOCKS?
- Thread starter allanw
- Start date
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- Posts
- 16,475
Do a search...I am sure someone on here was talking about this a while ago...and or atleast how to make a bastardised lock from them to fix the P38 one!!!
- Posts
- 66,516
- Location
- The Wooly Witch
It depends on the MGF year ...
- Posts
- 18,969
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Yes, need to find a similar looking one. Thy are slightly different but the motors inside are the same and just unclip in and out.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Will fit i think but wiring maybe different colour codes. Think there was something about it long ago on Rangerover.net.
- Posts
- 66,516
- Location
- The Wooly Witch
Didn't you do similar a couple of years back ?
- Posts
- 18,969
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
The one I had didn't have as many switches at the bottom. I may have taken photos and posted them on an old thread somewhere.
- Posts
- 18,969
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
- Posts
- 18,969
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
MartyUK might be able to help out. I think he refurbs lock motors. Think it was him anyway. I'm a bit cr@p with names.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
My drivers door lock has a latch fitted that is spiced into the loom. No plug on the latch, wires go straight into it. Wire colours are different from loom to latch. Don't know what it's from but works ok.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
Apparently mine is the new standard FQJ103220. All year latches come back to that number as being the latest version. No plug on latch body like earlier versions wires going straight into latch. But the colour codes on the latch wires do not match the colour codes on the loom. But FQJ103260 latch is also available and should fit and is cheaper, why i don't know.
Last edited:
- Posts
- 3,306
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
If you get the correct MGF version the connectors are the same. The main differences seem to be in the external metal brackets where the door handle & key-lock rods connect.
Unless you really want superlock, I suggest you also disable it. I think you can just remove the superlock mechanism & motor, but Marty is definitely the expert.
Unless you really want superlock, I suggest you also disable it. I think you can just remove the superlock mechanism & motor, but Marty is definitely the expert.
martyuk
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 824
- Location
- Swindon, UK
I've had a PM from Allan about a refurb latch - though I'm waiting on my core units for the RHF version he needs to come back so I can finish building one up and ship it out.
There were 3 different latches used on the front doors across the years.
First version was about 95-97 and had the moulded 6+1 connector on the latch itself.
Version 2 was 97-99/00 ish and had a loom coming out of it and ended up in a 6+1 connector. There are also 2 different versions of these - one with a moulded connector with 3 pins for the motors, and then 4 wires coming from the microswitches, and the second version with all 7 wires coming out of the latch housing.
Version 3 was the 99/00 - 02/Runout version which was the same internally as Version 2 - but had all the 7 wires in one connector, rather than the 6+1 arrangement
Passenger latches were the same - but omitted the key switch (except on LHD where the key switch was in the LHF latch and omitted from the RHF), and the rear doors... well, there are 4 different versions for each side...
I've got them all listed up on my website: p38webshop.co.uk - whether I have them in stock or not. I made it so it keeps them all in order and makes it easier for me to see what I have available. I have pictures of all the various versions that I have rebuilt - and as I find new ones, I update the product pages. I also have all the VIN ranges there for each latch type, collated from the helpful Allbrit.de online parts catalogue.
Superlocking... You can remove the motor if you want, or just cut the wire that feeds it (I leave the physical motor in place, but then cut one of the power feeds to it, as if the motor has failed then it can cause issues with the CDL motor). I don't however recommend removing the superlocking pawl that the motor activates, as by default this is sprung to stop the mechanism in the standard 'lock' position. If it were removed, then it the lock would go all the way to 'superlock' every time as it has nothing there to stop it.
There are versions of MG latch which are the same, yes - but I couldn't tell you which ones they are as I've never been out hunting for them. One thing worth doing if you do buy a second hand door latch from a breaker (and the big reason I started rebuilding them) then test the microswitches BEFORE installing it... Most breakers sell them as 'tested' but to a lot of them 'tested' means that it goes 'clunk' and locks/unlocks when it's in the vehicle. That doesn't mean all the switches work, and I've had a few owners come to me now with 'tested' second hand units that don't work, because one of the microswitches is faulty and hasn't sorted their problem out.
Marty
There were 3 different latches used on the front doors across the years.
First version was about 95-97 and had the moulded 6+1 connector on the latch itself.
Version 2 was 97-99/00 ish and had a loom coming out of it and ended up in a 6+1 connector. There are also 2 different versions of these - one with a moulded connector with 3 pins for the motors, and then 4 wires coming from the microswitches, and the second version with all 7 wires coming out of the latch housing.
Version 3 was the 99/00 - 02/Runout version which was the same internally as Version 2 - but had all the 7 wires in one connector, rather than the 6+1 arrangement
Passenger latches were the same - but omitted the key switch (except on LHD where the key switch was in the LHF latch and omitted from the RHF), and the rear doors... well, there are 4 different versions for each side...
I've got them all listed up on my website: p38webshop.co.uk - whether I have them in stock or not. I made it so it keeps them all in order and makes it easier for me to see what I have available. I have pictures of all the various versions that I have rebuilt - and as I find new ones, I update the product pages. I also have all the VIN ranges there for each latch type, collated from the helpful Allbrit.de online parts catalogue.
Superlocking... You can remove the motor if you want, or just cut the wire that feeds it (I leave the physical motor in place, but then cut one of the power feeds to it, as if the motor has failed then it can cause issues with the CDL motor). I don't however recommend removing the superlocking pawl that the motor activates, as by default this is sprung to stop the mechanism in the standard 'lock' position. If it were removed, then it the lock would go all the way to 'superlock' every time as it has nothing there to stop it.
There are versions of MG latch which are the same, yes - but I couldn't tell you which ones they are as I've never been out hunting for them. One thing worth doing if you do buy a second hand door latch from a breaker (and the big reason I started rebuilding them) then test the microswitches BEFORE installing it... Most breakers sell them as 'tested' but to a lot of them 'tested' means that it goes 'clunk' and locks/unlocks when it's in the vehicle. That doesn't mean all the switches work, and I've had a few owners come to me now with 'tested' second hand units that don't work, because one of the microswitches is faulty and hasn't sorted their problem out.
Marty
