P38 Driver's external door handle?

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jimmacD

Well-Known Member
Posts
381
Location
Lincolnshire
Thought I would see why the P38 won't lock from outside. The plastic bar retainer which goes into the back of the door handle/lock has broken off. Someone has previously tried to fix it with cable tie and washer. I think there is still part of it in the back of the lock. Can these locks be taken a part, if you needed to replace the lock tumbler? Looks like a locking pin and the square body can be twisted to separate it?
 
Thought I would see why the P38 won't lock from outside. The plastic bar retainer which goes into the back of the door handle/lock has broken off. Someone has previously tried to fix it with cable tie and washer. I think there is still part of it in the back of the lock. Can these locks be taken a part, if you needed to replace the lock tumbler? Looks like a locking pin and the square body can be twisted to separate it?
They can be taken apart, I found it impossible to remove the roll pin so I cut off the lug that locates to roll pin.
 
They can be taken apart, I found it impossible to remove the roll pin so I cut off the lug that locates to roll pin.
The two pronged metal rotating thingy which goes into the back of the lock and attaches to the rod has broken in half? Dunno how? I might have a go at carefully JB welding it. As the lock pin can't be pushed through I might try a small drill bit.... if the JB doesn't work?
 
The two pronged metal rotating thingy which goes into the back of the lock and attaches to the rod has broken in half? Dunno how? I might have a go at carefully JB welding it. As the lock pin can't be pushed through I might try a small drill bit.... if the JB doesn't work?
The roll pin is hardened steel, I could not drill it out. Which bit is broken?
IMG_1511.jpg
 
The grey flat topped piece with push clip at 9 O'clock which the door lock bar would push into. It has two prongs which go down into the lock cylinder either side of the barrel, one has broken and this means the assembly pops out when you use the lock.
 
The grey flat topped piece with push clip at 9 O'clock which the door lock bar would push into. It has two prongs which go down into the lock cylinder either side of the barrel, one has broken and this means the assembly pops out when you use the lock.
That part breaking seems to be quite common, I don't have an answer other than to get a handle from a breaker and swap the part over. I have done it converting a RHD to LHD at the same time.
 
That part breaking seems to be quite common, I don't have an answer other than to get a handle from a breaker and swap the part over. I have done it converting a RHD to LHD at the same time.
Are they interchangeable? There is a left hand drive handle on evilbay which is a lot cheaper than others for obvious reason. As I only need the internals, can't see why they would be different? Did you Dremel the corner with pin off?
 
Are they interchangeable? There is a left hand drive handle on evilbay which is a lot cheaper than others for obvious reason. As I only need the internals, can't see why they would be different? Did you Dremel the corner with pin off?
I used a RHD handle and converted it for LHD. It's a bit of a fiddle but can be done as some parts are made for either, so LHD to RHD should be possible. I used a Junior hacksaw to cut the corner with the roll pin, I cut as close as possible to the pin on the lock body side. After removing the lock body, I was able to extract the roll pin with side cutters. On reassembly, I used a small self tapping screw in the roll pin hole to stop the lock body turning.
 
No, I cut right through, it's a very thin piece of metal.
Might all be academic as I can't find a handle for sale with that part on it? It must just be a push fit and left on the connecting rod when peeps dismantle them? My usual P38 breaker in Lincoln has moved on to L322. Will stick a "want" on here?
 
Off topic question? Have you had to sort faded external weather trim, the waist strips and rear window surrounds? Thought I could bring them back with heat but they look as if painted from factory?
 
Might all be academic as I can't find a handle for sale with that part on it? It must just be a push fit and left on the connecting rod when peeps dismantle them? My usual P38 breaker in Lincoln has moved on to L322. Will stick a "want" on here?
I'm not 100% sure which bit you are talking about from your description, but I do not remember any push fit parts other than the rod pushing into the clip.
 
I repainted them on the project car using satin finish paint for plastic.
Yep, thought that might be the route. Can't remember but did you send me a workshop cd rom a few years back? It is strange that all the handles with locks are missing that piece, grey flat topped with tab which connect rod goes into? Will pull the lock a part for looksee?
 
Yep, thought that might be the route. Can't remember but did you send me a workshop cd rom a few years back? It is strange that all the handles with locks are missing that piece, grey flat topped with tab which connect rod goes into? Will pull the lock a part for looksee?
That flat piece the rod goes into is known for breaking off if the key is used regularly for locking/unlocking.
 
Did you send me a P38 workshop cdrom couple of years a go?
Quite possibly, I have sent out quite a few for the EAS which included RAVE, but I don't keep records because of DATA protection laws so I have no idea really.
I think there is a link in the tech archive to download RAVE.
 
Quite possibly, I have sent out quite a few for the EAS which included RAVE, but I don't keep records because of DATA protection laws so I have no idea really.
I think there is a link in the tech archive to download RAVE.
Somewhere in the house is the disc, it arrived and Wifey promptly tidied it never to be seen again!
 
Might all be academic as I can't find a handle for sale with that part on it? It must just be a push fit and left on the connecting rod when peeps dismantle them? My usual P38 breaker in Lincoln has moved on to L322. Will stick a "want" on here?
I've used Mark Goddard on one of the Facebook p38 pages, top man I've found. He's Manchester way but posts no problem.
 
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