Over heating waiting to be towed

Going along a14 near Ipswich and temp went right up and loss of power had prob before and it was an air lock aa don't think it is this time and having to wait 3 hours so thought I would see if the people with the know how can help ... P38 dse 1998


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Viscous fan, water pump impeller lost it's blades, thermostat, blocked rad, or if you are very unlucky a cracked head.
If you are going to be towed and it's an auto, don't forget to fit fuse 11 to select transfer box neutral or you will knacker the box.

Lots to look at then sounds to me that it needs booking in somewhere if it could be any one of those I wouldn't know how to test or what to start with ......


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Offroverp38 said:

Lots to look at then sounds to me that it needs booking in somewhere if it could be any one of those I wouldn't know how to test or what to start with ......


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Well it might be time to start reading and learning fast

or book it in 'somewhere' and just bend over

Datatek said:

Viscous fan, water pump impeller lost it's blades, thermostat, blocked rad, or if you are very unlucky a cracked head.
If you are going to be towed and it's an auto, don't forget to fit fuse 11 to select transfer box neutral or you will knacker the box.

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How do you return it to high/low? Also, would you damage the box if you rolled down a hill in neutral, or is it only with the engine off?

TCubed said:

How do you return it to high/low? Also, would you damage the box if you rolled down a hill in neutral, or is it only with the engine off?

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Put fuse in position 11 to put transfer box in nuetral so the gearbox output shaft is not being driven. Transfer box has it's own oil pump so is ok to tow. If you tow and drive gearbox without engine running there is no lubrication.

Been told I should be able to get water pump off without removing anything .... I can't get to it so started to take rad out and can't get it past the fan any step by step guide I could follow would be a help


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Hello all a little update ..... In the end I got the water pump out and yes it was in bits so just waiting now for parts to turn up ant min ... Thought I would replace the thermostat as I was there and just needed to ask if there was a right way of taking it out I can see it and it's really not waiting to come out any help would be good thanks


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Offroverp38 said:

Hello all a little update ..... In the end I got the water pump out and yes it was in bits so just waiting now for parts to turn up ant min ... Thought I would replace the thermostat as I was there and just needed to ask if there was a right way of taking it out I can see it and it's really not waiting to come out any help would be good thanks


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Make sure you collect all the broken bits of the water pump or they will block the water passages
If you get a new thermostat, test it in a pan of boiling water to make sure it opens, there are a lot of duff ones about

Datatek said:

Make sure you collect all the broken bits of the water pump or they will block the water passages
If you get a new thermostat, test it in a pan of boiling water to make sure it opens, there are a lot of duff ones about

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oh the joys of a P38 :doh:

2.0_hippo said:

oh the joys of a P38 :doh:

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Yep BMW engine quality strikes again, but at least no PDC to cause problems and it will cost the best part of bugger all to fix

ahaha true !

Did any of the P38's have PDC or wasnt it available then ?

Datatek said:

Yep BMW engine quality strikes again, but at least no PDC to cause problems and it will cost the best part of bugger all to fix

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Nowt wrong with the engines... BMW lumps of that era have only 2 known common weaknesses... water pump impeller blades (affects pretty much all of them - well known to BMW owners and most replace older plastic ones with newer metal ones at the earliest opportunity) and oil seperator valves (petrol enigines - rubber diaphragm perishes in them remarkably quickly).

Sort out those two little gems and they are bulletproof.

Clarky130 said:

Nowt wrong with the engines... BMW lumps of that era have only 2 known common weaknesses... water pump impeller blades (affects pretty much all of them - well known to BMW owners and most replace older plastic ones with newer metal ones at the earliest opportunity) and oil seperator valves (petrol enigines - rubber diaphragm perishes in them remarkably quickly).

Sort out those two little gems and they are bulletproof.

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You can add cracked heads and FIP problems to that list along with excessive oil consumption on some

2.0_hippo said:

ahaha true !

Did any of the P38's have PDC or wasnt it available then ?

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No, we are of a generation born with a brain and we are able to judge distance using our eyes and sense of spatial awareness without the need for nanny's help

2.0_hippo said:

ahaha true !

Did any of the P38's have PDC or wasnt it available then ?

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Not the electric ones, but a tow bar and nudge bar does a pretty good job

Just snapped the arm that holds the fan belt tight what a coxk !!!! Can you replace the part or have I got to get the welder out ?


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Offroverp38 said:

Just snapped the arm that holds the fan belt tight what a coxk !!!! Can you replace the part or have I got to get the welder out ?


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I'm sure it must be replaceable, try our sponsors Emmotts

Sorted it was a pain to get off but part ordered from island4x4 £34 delivered


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