Nooooooooo

Really just buy a good second hand motor make sure you hear it running and throw it in but have a good poke about make sure its gona pass next years test no huge holes bla bla
I have a huge hole in my inner wing but over here in france they dont give a fook and past its two year test no bother lol

hows your spannering ability?

If you have the time and space you could rebuild the engine yourself and you would have a motor that is good as new and could go for another 185,000 miles

me spannering ability is good but workshop facilities non existant may have found a cheap disco for the parts but the problem is how long will that engine last - who knows.
thinkin maybe takin it off the road and savin me pennies & buying a recon complete unit off ebay for 995 quid its the only way i can see ( appart from rebuilding mine in the living room ) of knowing its gonna last !! pretty f**ked either way.
and if mine needs a crank or anything such like its gonna run close to a grand with all the bits n bobs anyways & id rather have a shiney new engine

nice pair ya have there by the way !!

You will be far cheaper takeing yours to have it done in a engine shop
Its off the road now anyway and its got to come out as long as the crank is ok the rest is not really that expensive i recon you would be about 600 or so to have a basic rebuild rember the units you see on ebay are not complete ie. no rocker shaft fuel pump turbo lift pump its just a block and head not sure it will have crank pully or that ether

may of sold the bike & have found a 120k complete unit - turbo n all so hopefully il have it sorted soon

Cool fancy doing a full on engine swap thread with pics and ****

lol you never know i might !

Update
Had a mechanic friend of mine over last night - hes had a listen and assured me its the big end shells, he has also informed me that he,s pretty sure i can replace the big end shells from below with the engine still in.
He has said that it will involve removing the sump & oil strainer - turning the engine till the big end you want to do is at its lowest point, removing the conrod end cap then turn the engine anti clockwise to allow the conrod to come free from the crank, remove the old shell put the new ones in - reposition the crank & refit end cap !
he also stated i need to measure the crank to check for regrinding with a micrometer to ensure i source the correct size shells.
The only worry he said with doing the shells that way is that you have to watch you dont hit the piston on to the valves !!
The bloke is an excellent mechanic - but just wanted to check with you chaps that this can be done - Not going to buy a new engine if i can fix mine !!
cheers for reading

Yer I would do it that way.

to stop any piston/valve interference I would take the rocker cover off and remove the rocker shaft, that way all the valves will stay closed. Although you wont be using any force so even if a piston hits one it wouldnt do any damage.

nice one tusken raider well confirmed - bi hex sockets on theyre way !

get another engine .to start with if big ends have gone crank will need regrinding , and obviously needs engine out for that and if big ends have gone mains wont be far behind ,if you did do shells in situ you wouldnt have to worry about valves as piston would be at bottom and piston and cam still timed, obviously hes never done them,so removing rocker shaft point less and making it harder by not releasing compression,you remove cap and slide old bearing out and new in without moving crank ,dont forget 200s have ladder frame under block ,another engine is easiest unless you rebuild yours out of vehicle, i would shy away from regrinding crank,but fit replacement ,you have to be very careful not of valves but of cap stud damaging crank journal

You wont know if the crank needs regrinding until you take the shells out and look. Its worth a punt to see if you can get away with it, if not all you have lost is a few hours in labour.

if its knocking journal will be damaged

Sorry dont agree. Yes there is a good chance it will be but it will depend how long its been like it. Bearings are sacrifical items and are designed to wear instead of the crank journals.

Got to be worth whipping the pan off and having a look as apposed to doing an engine swap.

If its shagged, its shagged, if its not, bonus.

I agree with tusken.

I just did my bros puma, previous owner ran it out of oil. 1 and 3 journal damaged, emeryed the journal, new standard shells, run it on thicker oil now and it's sweet enough, knocks a TINY bit over 4500 rpm. He's not arsed about that and the car was £350 plus 17 quid for shells as opposed to about 1200 quid.

It is DEFINITELY worth a look and most likely worth a try

depends if you want a very short term bodge or doing properly,thats why engine builders use micrometers ,and from experience mains wont be far behind,

cheers for the reply & james you are abslutely right if the crank is damaged then its game over. but i have very little funds right now & as long as the crank & all the important bits are still in one piece its having new shells - the way i look at it is if the crank & conrods etc are not damaged then new shells will sort it. - if the cranks damaged then it will still have new shells & be running healthier, I will just keep looking for an engine as i will be aware mine is very ill ! I just dont have 500 quid to throw at an engine right now and really have no choice but to get it driveable again.
If the crank & important bits are fubared then the engines scrap anyway so let it eat itself. Cheers for all the help & advice, I will take piccies & might do a how too to maybe save someone else a fortune !
We will know when the sumps off - i did only drive for 6 miles tops at stupidly low revs to avoid knocking so i may be lucky

jamesmartin said:

thats why engine builders use micrometers

Click to expand...

I know, I am one

Buying a 2nd hand engine is just as much a lottery as slapping some new shells in as you have no idea what you are getting and could end up in the same place 6 months down the line.

Strip the bottom out, inspect it, give the journals a measure and go from there Remember to measure them in 2 places as well ideally 90 degrees apart to get an idea if the journal is oval.

cheers for the measuring tips T/R, you are right the only way of being sure is to buy a recon unit. as all used 200 tdi engines have done over 100k.
The thing i cant understand is i have all the history from new & its been very well looked after serviced every 6 k yet it needs big ends at 185k ???
There is a two year stretch where i know nothing so i assume it was owned by a high revver who never maintained it.
Was chattin to a chap on ebay the other day ref engine & he said he had a 200 tdi in his range rover and at 370 k was still running sweet - how can that be when mines dead at 185 ???