Non Starter

Morning Guy's,

Just converted from my Disco TD5 after 6 years and finally got myself what I had always wanted, a 4.4 V8 Rangie.
All been good for over 4 weeks and have done a couple of sixty mile journeys with no problems.
Got in this morning for journey to work and hey presto, NOTHING. Key goes in and turns, steering wheel coming out slower than usual and monitor screen goes out and flashes a bit then returns when I turn the key to start. All I am getting is a click and a couple of messages flashing up on the dash including air suspension inactive, could this be the battery, any help please

Thanks

100 % battery seems low,also move gear selector back and forward to make sure its engaged p properly else it wont start,saying that if it wasn't engeaged properly it wouldn't let you remove key,put foot on brake select n try that

wil2813 said:

100 % battery seems low,also move gear selector back and forward to make sure its engaged p properly else it wont start,saying that if it wasn't engeaged properly it wouldn't let you remove key,put foot on brake select n try that

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+1, battery dying, either it's duff or there is a drain problem or the alternator is not charging properly.

Guy's,

Thanks for your replies so far, I did notice that the battery red light on the dash flickered a couple of times when it was ticking over but went out as soon as I moved off, can I charge the battery in situ to see if it is shagged before replacing it or would you suggest go get a new one anyway ?

Thanks

Dezx4x4 said:

Guy's,

Thanks for your replies so far, I did notice that the battery red light on the dash flickered a couple of times when it was ticking over but went out as soon as I moved off, can I charge the battery in situ to see if it is shagged before replacing it or would you suggest go get a new one anyway ?

Thanks

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You can charge in situe but unless you have a smart charger disconnect the battery first. If you do have a smart charger, connect the charger to the battery before plugging it into the mains.
The only way to see if the battery is good is a shunt test.
Sounds like your alternator is stuffed.

Give it a charge, I'd suggest taking the battery indoors for this (follow removing procedure), or jump her, and then check the voltage across the battery. Can't say for sure on an L322 but the P38 should be >14V for a healthy alternator. Then take her for a good drive to theoretically charge it up, then recheck the battery periodically with the engine off and see if the charge is lost quickly. This should indicate whether it's the battery or the alternator.

+1 to Battery fecked....

TCubed said:

Give it a charge, I'd suggest taking the battery indoors for this (follow removing procedure), or jump her, and then check the voltage across the battery. Can't say for sure on an L322 but the P38 should be >14V for a healthy alternator. Then take her for a good drive to theoretically charge it up, then recheck the battery periodically with the engine off and see if the charge is lost quickly. This should indicate whether it's the battery or the alternator.

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Jump starting an L322 or P38 can cause all manner of problems and should be regarded as a last resort, if it has to be done, follow the owners manual.

The charge voltage should be around 14.2 volts at 2K rpm.

You cannot fully recharge a flat battery by driving the car, you would have to run for 12 hours or more to get to 90%.

Datatec/Saint V8

If either or both of you get to see this thanks again. Got home tonight and used a battery pack to try and start her. She went after twenty seconds of it being on and ran like a dream so no problems elsewhere hopefully. Left her running for 15mins and then checked return voltage with the lights on, 13.5v back to the battery. Turned her off, battery reading 12.2v then 20 mins later 9.8v. My guess is battery is shagged but is the alternator on the way out too, as I believe it should be 14.4v.
Your thoughts please guy's

Thanks

If the battery light flags up it means alternator, if the battery run outs of charge the vehicle will cut out completely and all electronics stop working.

If your battery charges that quickly it is probably dying. Be worth taking it off, chucking it on charge and see what happens.

I would suggest you either fully charge the battery then test it or if you feel the battery is fecked put the biggest battery you can get to fit in the box I have a 12v lorry battery in my p38. Then check the charge with no loads and then with loads. If you try to check it with a duff battery it will mask the readings and they wont be accurate. I would expect to see a charge rate of 13.5 to 14.2 volts and I work with these vehicles everyday. They dont like the iginition on and not running as the draw from the cars electronics are huge the new cars once they get to a certain voltage they automatically shut down the car.

Plus changing an alternator aint the easiest thing in the world on these cars it a job to find them and get them changed.

I would suggest a new battery if you feel it is duff before you go putting an alternator on it!!!!!

Matt1987 makes a good point, they cost a fortune on the L322 too as they are water cooled. Many hundreds of pounds.

Bix said:

Matt1987 makes a good point, they cost a fortune on the L322 too as they are water cooled. Many hundreds of pounds.

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Only on the 4.4

If the battery is that bad, it could be dragging Alternator output down hence the low voltage when running...Alternator *may* be fine, just a duff battery...

and Yes, the V8 Alternators are shockingly priced!

Change Battery, recheck alternator output on a decent fully charged battery....

Mine at idle reads 13.9V and rises to 14.2 14.3 at 2k rpm.

Gentlemen,

Thank you to all of you for your help and advice, battery it is, and then I will check as you all suggest as to the return voltage. Looked at the cost of the alternator and did not realise they are water cooled, but not much change from £400.

You wanna try changing one, next time you pop the bonnet try and have a look for it and you may change your mind!!!!!

Dezx4x4 said:

Datatec/Saint V8

If either or both of you get to see this thanks again. Got home tonight and used a battery pack to try and start her. She went after twenty seconds of it being on and ran like a dream so no problems elsewhere hopefully. Left her running for 15mins and then checked return voltage with the lights on, 13.5v back to the battery. Turned her off, battery reading 12.2v then 20 mins later 9.8v. My guess is battery is shagged but is the alternator on the way out too, as I believe it should be 14.4v.
Your thoughts please guy's

Thanks

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13.5 volts charge voltage is very low, modern lead calcium batteries require 14 volts or more at 2K rpm to charge correctly.
Could be your alternator is draining the battery due to a duff diode.
As others have said, first step would be battery, take and get it shunt tested or just replace it.

Dezx4x4 said:

Gentlemen,

Thank you to all of you for your help and advice, battery it is, and then I will check as you all suggest as to the return voltage. Looked at the cost of the alternator and did not realise they are water cooled, but not much change from £400.

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I haven't looked at the L322 alternator, but most alternators can be fixed with a new diode pack and regulator. Water cooling an alternator is another sign of the madness that affects todays designers.

Datatek said:

...... another sign of the madness that affects todays designers.

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Guy's,

So glad you are here, put new battery on and she fired first time, alternator reading 13.9v on tickover but had no one with me to press throttle so guess it would climb, will leave for a couple of day's and check again.
Now have other problems, 3 x amber warning lights and message that air susp inactive
I have emergency brake assist - amber - fault EBA
ABS light - amber
DSC light - amber

Help please