Nightmare key code lockout help ???

1996 p38 , need some help please , just been taken home on the back of a recovery truck after a nightmare with the key code lockout, il explain the full story and give as much info as I can ..

Ok .. Drove to work fine ,opened the rear passenger door drivers side to get some stuff out ,pressed fob as normal doors locked etc as normal, went to work at rolls Royce of all places 1st time ever going there (ie I've read about possible rf interference at some places) , popped out at 1am to get something out and pressed fob it wouldn't work, opened drivers door with key , tried ignition it said key code lockout ?? Yet hadn't tried the key code procedure

So tried it it wouldn't work , rear lights red and side lights flashed on and off and the key code lock out on dash flashed on and off aswell , so locked it went back in to google etc, left it 45 mins it was still doing the same, ie did not reset after 30 mins it says i the manual, tried the key code anyway no joy

Left it an hour again still the same flashing and key code lockout

Disconnected the battery for half hour , then with drivers door open re connected ,it said key code lock out (as expected via info found on google), it was solid not flashing and the lights were no longer flashing, then shut it etc , came back 35 mins later and it had gone out dash was dark .. Horay I thought .. So started to do the procedure 4 turns to the rear , then do the code , half way through 1st attempt it started beeping as did the turns and key code lock out returned to the dash and beeping of alarm with any turn in the lock , so the lockout was kicking in before even 1attempt

Tried re sync etc and various clutching at straws things turning with fob buttons etc in ignition etc etc

Left another 30 mins more googling, went back .. Dash was blank again so at least it was re setting , tried again same thing happened lockout kicking in half way through 1st attempt

So called break down 2 hrs before finished work , tried again durning that 2 hrs same thing

Break down comes , I explain etc etc , dash Is blank he reads the procedure from the book but knows about them anyway and the nightmare , he goes to try and same again it kicks in

So he tried with a booster pack etc couldn't sort it ended up taking me home

When we unloaded another 30 mins had passed he tried again ,same thing BUT we noticed a "clicking jamming " click click click type sound from the rear drivers side door by the door pin , none of the other doors were doing it , and it kept like trying to lock it , even shut locked all doors it was just doing it still, opened drivers door and moved the pin , managed to get it to stop

Locked it up and came indoors

so any ideas ? I've read via goole about door lock micro switches had been at fault for this , cold it be that rear door ? Although never had any prob with it ever

The drivers door handle is a bit funny has been for a while as they do get a bit old and worn , sometimes to open from inside you have to pull it quite far and in real cold before its been a bit iffy, and it was very cold tonight there

But I'm stuck what to do and 1st ports of call what to check then I wake up later ?

The battery will need a charge I think it's near dead , the fob batteries ? They were new about 6 months ago

I think that's as much info I can give , would appreciate any advice and things to try etc etc

Just seems something is tripping out the key code lock out before I can enter the code even once to try start the engine !!
Bloody thing, right sleep time

Cheers guys

Polsta

RF receiver is the usual cause.

do you think so ? is there any way to test for sure ? would the reciever do the keycode lock out thing half way through 1 attempt as above ? and make the 1 door do that clicking sound thing ?

just woke up now got to try get the bloody thing sorted

polsta said:

do you think so ? is there any way to test for sure ? would the reciever do the keycode lock out thing half way through 1 attempt as above ? and make the 1 door do that clicking sound thing ?

just woke up now got to try get the bloody thing sorted

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Duff RF receivers are known to cause the lock motors to burn out and the early ones are sesitive to RF interference.
Take the RF receiver out of it's box and compare the internals to the photo's on the thread RF internals photo.

Sometimes the early receivers just go mad and can cause havoc. No guarantees of course.

how do i remove it ?

im just going to go outside for the 1st time today, just see what actualy happens now, its had time to sit and settle, not sure if the battery will be flat or not

my gut feeling/instinct was that its somethig to do with one of the locks/handles and micro switches maybe , rather than the reciever , but is there any test i can do ?

polsta said:

how do i remove it ?

im just going to go outside for the 1st time today, just see what actualy happens now, its had time to sit and settle, not sure if the battery will be flat or not

my gut feeling/instinct was that its somethig to do with one of the locks/handles and micro switches maybe , rather than the reciever , but is there any test i can do ?

Click to expand...

The RF receiver is under the flat top trim in the boot R/H side towards the rear seat back, do not confuse it with the radio aerial amplifier.
You can cycle door locks with diagnostics.

is there any tests i can do myself at home ? without having to pay to get truck taken to diagnostics, pay for that, then pay to get it taken home ?

You can just disconnect the aerial wire to the RF receiver (Blue wire I think). This means you can only use your fob at very close range, but it also means that your RF receiver isn't affected by WiFi, telephones and everything else that can cause problems.

If your battery stays charged, and your locks don't burn out, you know that the problem was interference to your RF receiver, so you can buy the latest one and your problems are solved. If your battery goes flat still, your locks burn out, or your still have trouble unlocking with the fob, and disarming the immobiliser, at least you know it's not an RF receiver problem, and you can start looking elsewhere.

Make sure your battery is fully (and I mean fully) charged before you start all the re-syncing and EKA entry etc. They don't like a flat battery, and when re-syncing having a healthy one seems to make a difference.

MrGorsky said:

You can just disconnect the aerial wire to the RF receiver (Blue wire I think). This means you can only use your fob at very close range, but it also means that your RF receiver isn't affected by WiFi, telephones and everything else that can cause problems.

If your battery stays charged, and your locks don't burn out, you know that the problem was interference to your RF receiver, so you can buy the latest one and your problems are solved. If your battery goes flat still, your locks burn out, or your still have trouble unlocking with the fob, and disarming the immobiliser, at least you know it's not an RF receiver problem, and you can start looking elsewhere.

Make sure your battery is fully (and I mean fully) charged before you start all the re-syncing and EKA entry etc. They don't like a flat battery, and when re-syncing having a healthy one seems to make a difference.

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Sorry, disconnecting the blue aerial wire will not stop a defective receiver burning the locks or confusing the alarm system, nor will it stop it picking up spurious RF signals although it does reduce the problem.

What Datatek says is true, but if you did disconnect the blue wire and it sorts your problem out you've got a good idea where the fault is. Do they have WiFi at Rolls Royce?

My brother dsconnected the blue wire and wrapped his rf receiver in
tin foil to try and make a Faraday cage to stop RF interference. It worked, and I think it's still like that! He just unlocks from next to his car.

MrGorsky said:

What Datatek says is true, but if you did disconnect the blue wire and it sorts your problem out you've got a good idea where the fault is. Do they have WiFi at Rolls Royce?

My brother dsconnected the blue wire and wrapped his rf receiver in
tin foil to try and make a Faraday cage to stop RF interference. It worked, and I think it's still like that! He just unlocks from next to his car.

Click to expand...

Yes

Saint.V8 said:

Yes

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do you work there ? if so- amazing place to look round :jaw:,
anyway- thanks for the replies guys, i did park quite close to the side of the building , theyve also been installing some internal 4g EE network transmitters and stuff like that, someone said, and its possible something interfered, but...woudnt it of been ok when we got home and tried ? although then the battery was very low

when i went out to check earlier the battery was totaly dead, so took it round to my mates hes taking it to work to charge and recondition it, and dropping it off tomorrow eve, so we will try then and try the reciever ariel blue wire thing- but will that actualy be needed to done if theres no interference here ?

and what would be the next port of call ? the door locks ? either the rear one that was making the clicking noise ? or the front one which has been a bit iffy the last few months and like it was on its way out ? although as it sits now the doorhandles and catches work ok and open and loock etc and key works ok, although everything is flat battery wise

could it be a micro switch or something ? what would be the way to test without diagnostics or just buy a couple of new ones from ebay ? i notise they arnt that expensive

is it these id need ? would that also be whats feeling iffy on the drivers one ? i spoke to a breaker a couple of months ago asking he said he sells the whole set as drivers one always goes ?

1994-2002 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER P38 DRIVER FRONT DOOR LOCK MECH OS RH | eBay

I work for a company that does component design, manufacture and engineering for Rolls Royce...I am a regular visitor to their On Wing Care centre at Heathrow for design meetings, discussions and tooling issues....I do the same for GE and IAE plus a number of others too....

Make sure doors are locked before you try the EKA code input and resync I tried several times when I did mine and never worked because when I turned the key to lock 4 times to notify the becm I was about to put EKA code in. I was only actually actively doing 3 turns of the key as the first turn was ignored because that was actually in effect locking the car first. Once I realised and did it with car locked it worked perfect

i already did, im not alien to the procedur and have had to do it on the odd occasion so i know how to

the problem seems to be not not doing it right, as its not even giving me the chance to do it 3 times , its doing the keycode lockout straight away, its whats causing that is the problem ...

Pm Mozz smith he's key code lockout master

Taximan2011 said:

Pm Mozz smith he's key code lockout master

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hello my mate your comments are noted and i am pleased ,,hope your ok and everythings going good with your rangie ,,,kind regards MOZZ

:crazy_driver:

That's ok mate yes things are good Rangie getting there. Time has evaded me have managed to do fair few jobs still got four or five jobs to do before on the road proper. New rf receiver next then I can change door locks

thanks for that taximan, mozz had already pm`ed me his number to give him a ring, top man mozz !!! hopefully wel get it sorted tomorrow when i get the battery back, just praying it works and mozz can do the magic !

Hope so don't think mozz has failed yet.