P38 Keys not working

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gmx09

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Hi guys,

My Dad has recently purchased a 2001 4.4 P38 and we're having some issues with the keys.

Initially the car was showing "Engine Disabled, Key Code Lockout" so we've swapped a new lock set in which was confirmed working. After fiddling with the plug going to the door latch the car eventually sprung into life and the central locking activated. Attempted the key and it was all working great, car started fine with both keys.

I've since taken both keys apart to replace the housings & batteries and we're back to square one. Car is displaying the "Engine Disabled, Key Code Lockout" message again and the remote central locking isn't working anymore. I removed the latch from the door and had a fiddle with the plug and when manually actuating the latch I got the central locking to activate a few times... but unfortunately it then went into Key Code Lockout, and the key is still displaying Engine Disabled.

I have the EKA code but we've never had any luck trying to enter it. When I lock the door 4 times I get no chirp from the alarm or flash of the indicators, suggesting it's not ready for me to enter any code.

Is this potentially an issue with the plug going to the door latch? Is it likely that some of the pins in this plug are not making a proper connection?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 
Sounds like both keys have lost sync. Once batteries have been out after a short time they loose sync. Look in Technical section there is a guide for re syncing keys. Could have a faulty door latch for not entering key code.
 
If I'm correct, key in drivers door lock.
Press and hold the unlock button while turning to unlock and then press and hold lock button while locking. 🤔
 
Are you actually seeing the message "keycode"?

Try the sync in the lock as ^^^^ .
If it is only showing "engine disabled" try putting it in the ignition and pressing the "unlock" button on the fob

I usually find the key in the door method works best, but the central locking needs to work on the key and the fob before things go tits up :oops: .

I would say keys out of sync at the moment, as you have had them both apart. You are using the original fob board aren't you?

J
 
Mark Piercy said:
If I'm correct, key in drivers door lock.
Press and hold the unlock button while turning to unlock and then press and hold lock button while locking. 🤔
Click to expand...

That needs working microswitches so another thing to check. 2001 should sync from the ignition barrel but that wil only work if the RF receiver is plugged in and the thing on the ignition barrel hasn't been dislodged
 
mozz smith said:
Ah , happy memories of this intriguing but easy rectified annoying problem , hi to Datatek, Grrrrrr, Mark, Rubberknees, and Marjon hoping your all well ,im sure you will all resolve it for him. kind regards MOZZ
Click to expand...
Keeping well as can be Mozz. Great to hear from you. All the best to you pal, keep safe and well :) 👍
 
mozz smith said:
Ah , happy memories of this intriguing but easy rectified annoying problem , hi to Datatek, Grrrrrr, Mark, Rubberknees, and Marjon hoping your all well ,im sure you will all resolve it for him. kind regards MOZZ
Click to expand...
Now then "far away" man.
Not doing so bad here thanks kiddo. How's you and yours?
 
My 2000 model sometimes throws a wobbly (thanks Mozz for your assist that time years back, that time it was micro switches, and a new door lock unit was needed). I can park up and come back 10 mins later it will come up engine disabled. The ignition barrel thing never worked so I enter the EKA, However, this has also never chirped or flashed lights, I just follow through with the sequence and all's good. I think in a previous life the BECAM was played with and a lot of settings turned off.
 
Gunnerhavesome said:
My 2000 model sometimes throws a wobbly (thanks Mozz for your assist that time years back, that time it was micro switches, and a new door lock unit was needed). I can park up and come back 10 mins later it will come up engine disabled. The ignition barrel thing never worked so I enter the EKA, However, this has also never chirped or flashed lights, I just follow through with the sequence and all's good. I think in a previous life the BECAM was played with and a lot of settings turned off.
Click to expand...
If you have a Nanocom, turn off EKA and Immobiliser in the BECM and you will have no more problems as you can operate the car with just the key if needed.
 
Datatek said:
If you have a Nanocom, turn off EKA and Immobiliser in the BECM and you will have no more problems as you can operate the car with just the key if needed.
Click to expand...
hi there, may i ask how to turn off the eka, alarm and immobilizer, can’t get past these 3 screens in the emulator and afraid to touch anything without being sure…what should i click on to turn all off, thanks a bunch ~ dolly
 

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DollyBird said:
hi there, may i ask how to turn off the eka, alarm and immobilizer, can’t get past these 3 screens in the emulator and afraid to touch anything without being sure…what should i click on to turn all off, thanks a bunch ~ dolly
Click to expand...
The first screen says "Immobiliser Enabled" change it to disabled.
The third screen says "EKA Enabled" change it to disabled.
Not got a Nanocom but I presume you click on the green button to change the setting.
 
DollyBird said:
Ohhh thanks so much, would have completely miss that last step ;)
Click to expand...
I was able to do this, just wanted to add one step in case it helps anyone else because i was a bit stuck on it:

- disabled the immobilizer…but doing this kept throwing me into ‘diagnostic mode’ and engine wouldn’t start
- went back into BECM/Disarm, put in the eka code and that got me out of diagnostic mode and kept the immobilzer disabled

Maybe it’s just a coincidence because the eka code/disarm has never worked to disarm the car, always had to use the key in the door method ;(
 
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