Lumpy Idle and Sluggish to Rev 1.8 Freelander

Well I finally managed to get my freelander to a garage to replace the fuel filter along with some other jobs, but unfortunately whilst there have been some improvements the car is not 100%

It now starts without problem, but the idle is lumpy and the throttle response is sluggish, especially so from cold - when you press the throttle there is an initial delay before the revs shoot up and it always feels underpowered. I feel I have to rev it much harder than should be necessary to make reasonable progress!

Everyone seems stumped - coil, dizzy, rotor arms, leads, plugs, injectors and inlet manifold have all been changed as has the coolant temp sensor.

I have read that the aftermarket coolant temp sensors can be dodgy, but I'm reluctant to throw more money at the problem, especially to replace a new item!

Could I be sucking in air somewhere? Could it be the plastic throttle body?

Any suggestions?

Cheers.

Has the head gasket gone?

Hi Emeye. I recently think I found the source of a series of issues that caused engine running problems on my old 1.8 Freelander. Turned out to be the loom - in my case it was the connector at the ECU. Obviously my be a red herring for you but worth a look.

I don't think it's the head gasket as it's not losing water and others don't think so.

I read the thread on the wiring loom and will have a good look when I get the chance.

Cheers.

Might be worth taking it to LR and get it diagnosed? Will cost between 100-150 but at least u then know what the problem actually is. You could throw parts at it all day otherwise.

I reckon I need a k-series specialist, not a Landie specialist or main dealer - it's been to a specialist and they didn't know what was wrong cos the computer told them everything was ok!:doh:

Alot of people CLAIM to be landy specialist when they only know the basics.
I am a very good mechanic and know alot but when it comes to a electrical problem within the loom I go to main stealer or some1 who worked there with the PROPER computers not a silly OBD reader you can buy from anywhere.

Gaylanders suffered from throttle body problems, wear and oiling up (articularly the KV6) cos they had plastic throttle bodies. It could be a sticky and worn throttle body, which would allow air in and cause a delayed throttle response.

The Mad Hat Man said:

Gaylanders suffered from throttle body problems, wear and oiling up (articularly the KV6) cos they had plastic throttle bodies. It could be a sticky and worn throttle body, which would allow air in and cause a delayed throttle response.

Click to expand...

I'm not too sure the throttle body would do this if it was sticky/worn.

The way the K series throttle is designed, if it were sticky it would cause a delay bringing the revs back down but not cause a delay when the throttle is depressed (unless the throttle position sensor is fecked or needs resetting in which case it would be that the injectors are delayed rather than the airflow).

not sure how much sense that makes, correct me if i'm wrong.

activate the throttle manually from inside the engine bay and see if you notice any change.

Ta for your thoughts - anyways, it occurred to me that my top new neighbour who just happens to be the service manager for the local ex-rover dealership now mg-rover specialist might take it to his place for a once over. I'm dropping the keys off with him tonight. He tells me they have k-series engines apart every week. Fingers crossed.

Emeye said:

Ta for your thoughts - anyways, it occurred to me that my top new neighbour who just happens to be the service manager for the local ex-rover dealership now mg-rover specialist might take it to his place for a once over. I'm dropping the keys off with him tonight. He tells me they have k-series engines apart every week. Figures crossed.

Click to expand...

Hope you get it fixed.

Let us know how you get on

i use to have a freelander and had a similar problem took it to the dealer tried testbook no fault recorded, changed the throttle position sensor,wiring loom,idle control valve etc turned out to be the rear silencer, the exhaust gases could not escape quick enough so it was choking the engine

swift said:

i use to have a freelander and had a similar problem took it to the dealer tried testbook no fault recorded, changed the throttle position sensor,wiring loom,idle control valve etc turned out to be the rear silencer, the exhaust gases could not escape quick enough so it was choking the engine

Click to expand...

I have got a slight blow on the rear box. Could this cause an exhaust airflow problem?

my rear silencer had collapsed inside , i dont know if a blowing exhaust would cause the fault you could try sealing it up to test it

Remove the rear silencer (it's only clamped just above the left rear driveshaft and then hung on the rubber hangers). Might need a bit of gt85 or wd40 to get it loose.

If the idle etc improves then it's likely the rear silencer has collapsed on the inside and is now blocking gases (extra pressure may be causing it to blow/leak somewhere).

Rear silencer only makes a difference to sound, i had no performance differences on my K series with it removed altogether.

Check for damage also to the middle silencer. It can easily catch on something if you're greenlaning or something which will obviously cause damage to its internals.

freebiker said:

Remove the rear silencer (it's only clamped just above the left rear driveshaft and then hung on the rubber hangers). Might need a bit of gt85 or wd40 to get it loose.

If the idle etc improves then it's likely the rear silencer has collapsed on the inside and is now blocking gases (extra pressure may be causing it to blow/leak somewhere).

Rear silencer only makes a difference to sound, i had no performance differences on my K series with it removed altogether.

Check for damage also to the middle silencer. It can easily catch on something if you're greenlaning or something which will obviously cause damage to its internals.

Click to expand...

Didn't realise the freelander could go off-road snigger lol

just come from a '96 3.9 disco to a work of the devil gaylander (that runs local lanes as easy as the 3.9 with 2"lift and insa traction tracks did)... change your plugs, air filter clean maf. Take no notice of 76000 miles before changing plugs
swap em when economy and performance drop off.

Thought I'd update this as it annoys the hell out of me when people have problems and never come back to tell us how they got on.
My freelander is now running ok (apart from a dodgy fuel pump electrical connector - see other thread) and it turned out to be a combination of the first garage making matters worse, a slightly dodgy ecu and a timing issue. Luckily one of my new neighbours who moved in across the road a year ago is service manager at his family garage and he sorted it for me in any spare time - it means I didn't have the car for about 2 months, but he got there where 2 other garages failed! One was a Land Rover specialist!

I like a happy ending!

Hi, I seem to have a worse off scenario. My Freelander 1 1.8 k-series will only start if I disconnect the inertia switch then quickly connect it back to maintain the sluggish idling. it runs but looses power on any up hill. Have changed plugs, sensors and the pump reads over 3.5 bars. The central lock switch works when the inertia switch is disconnected. The temperature control lights don't come on. Have also changed the idle control value, but no change. May some please help.