LSE turns over but won't start....

Hi folks,

Car is a '93 LSE 4.2 V8.

Drove the car home from work on Saturday with no problems, parked it on the drive, locked it using the fob, and left it overnight.

Went out today, unlocked it using the fob, went to start it as usual, and it refuses to fire. It will turn over fine, but that is all. It's only done 109 miles since I last filled it, so there should be half a tank or so of fuel.

I pulled one of the plugs and it was bone dry, despite repeated cranking. I also couldn't get a spark when holding the plug against the block and turning the car over - so it would seem I have no spark and no fuel.

Where do I start?

Ignition Coil and/or Ignition Amplifier

My 3.9 classic suffered the same symptoms...turned out to be the Amplifier on the side of the dizzy....

You get no fuel as the Engine ECU gets a 'Engine Running' signal from a pulse from the coil LT Amp line, if the Amp isn't firing the coil, the ECU won't inject fuel.

That would be my first check!

Thanks Saint.

Is this the part I need?

Ignition Amplifier Module - STC1184 | Defender, Discovery Series 1, Range Rover Classic | Land Rover, Range Rover | British Parts UK

That looks like the one.

Some local autofactors such as Unity can test your current amp to make sure it works before you purchase new.

If it's not the ignition amplifier, check your coil.

classic kev said:

If it's not the ignition amplifier, check your coil.

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Said that too...

Saint.V8 said:

Said that too...

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Ah, so you did!

I guess the only other option could be the dodgy ignition switch that plagues so many. Check wiring to/from coil and ignition amp, if you're not getting voltage then pop ignition switch out and check it hasn't fallen to bits internally.

classic kev said:

Ah, so you did!

I guess the only other option could be the dodgy ignition switch that plagues so many. Check wiring to/from coil and ignition amp, if you're not getting voltage then pop ignition switch out and check it hasn't fallen to bits internally.

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ooh...good call...!!

Right….problem solved!

I swapped out the coil first of all - still wouldn't start.

I then went to change the ignition amp, but noticed that one of the two thin white wires that lead into the connector on the top of the amplifier had snapped. I used the new connector off of the new amplifier and all is now well. Wish I'd investigated further before buying the new parts but that's life.

I've not yet changed the amplifier, but plan to as I may as well now that I have the part. It appears that it's difficult to get access to as it is on the side of the dizzy that sits next to a pump/pulley of some sort. Does the distributor have to be removed to take the amp off?

Thanks for the help lads - glad to have the car running again!

VogueLSE4.2 said:

Does the distributor have to be removed to take the amp off?

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If you have small hands and some patience then no. If you are familiar with popping the dizzy out then it is easier to just take it out.

The tricky bit is getting something in to undo the two very small hex head screws that hold the amplifier to the distributor which is why it is better to remove the dizzy; also you can give the distributor a thorough check over and even an overhaul while you're at it. Take your time, get it right.

+1 to the above....plus also remember if you do take it out, part of the drive mech for the dizzy and associated gubbins is a Helical drive...this means as you lift the dizzy out the rotor shaft will turn as the Helical drive disengages....

The trick is getting the Rotor shaft in the right orientation so when you drop it back in, as the drive engages the rotor shaft turns back to where it was originally and the drive dog engages at the bottom!!

You'll see what I mean as you remove the dizzy...sounds harder than it is, and make sure you have your strobe handy for the final tweaks!