- Posts
- 31,377
- Location
- North Shropshire
They are overpriced but a cheaper one i bought just didn't seem as good. Sparks when you connect to the battery and just doesn't seem to charge as efficiently
L320 TDV6 multiple issues at once with power drop
- Thread starter Datsun770
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 43,931
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
I have one from Aldi and one from Lidl, they work very well. True you can get a small spark on one of them if you connect to the battery before plugging into the mains but not if you plug in first. They all use similar chip sets so you pay for the brand name.
I've went down a diagnostic rabbit hole this weekend guys. I had ordered an icarsoft 3.0 based on the YouTube guys. But the reviews on amazon are worryingly terrible. I read that this can be used for air suspension recalibration and steering angle sensor calibration which are two possible fixes for my issues.
I looked at a gap tool but I am loathed to spend £500 on a tool if I'm not going to be keeping the vehicle long term die to issues.
Also considering SDD as I see I can purchase a mongoose cable and the software is relatively cheap.
What's the general thoughts on this or are there any good threads to have a read at?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 43,931
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Thankfully, I have no specific knowledge of the newer cars so I can make no recommendations other than good diagnostics are necessary to keep Range Rovers running. Good diagnostics can always be sold on, so £500 will not be a total loss if you do not keep the vehicle.
No error codes have returned but I'm getting dead spots when pulling away where I'm having to release the throttle and then press it again to move. Any thoughts folks? Fuel filter didn't cure it.
Fuel pump pre-filter blocked in tank, I've had many, many of these in the past with those symptoms, eventually it'll get bad enough to set a DTC - sometimes it's caused by fuel 'bloom', sometimes by cr@p fuel from too cheap sources....
The official fix is a new fuel pump module, which if the pump is noisy, I'd recommend, if the pump is relatively quiet, then remove the pump module, remove the pump and then remove the pre-filter, these can be cleaned with reverse flow (I did mine in the workshop parts washer just after the fluid had been changed!) They are not available as a spare part and you really don't wasnt to run without one.
The official fix is a new fuel pump module, which if the pump is noisy, I'd recommend, if the pump is relatively quiet, then remove the pump module, remove the pump and then remove the pre-filter, these can be cleaned with reverse flow (I did mine in the workshop parts washer just after the fluid had been changed!) They are not available as a spare part and you really don't wasnt to run without one.
- Posts
- 12,129
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
À module to run a pump? No doubt a reason but why? Is it ecu controlled for flow?
A genuine question master jedi
A genuine question master jedi
Sorry, manufacturer-speak - in this case, module = assembly, the pump is encased in a tub with various other bits.
There are manufacturers that have pump control modules, notably Merc & Renault (and I think VWG) where the requested and actual pressure is broadcast over PT-CAN to the fuel pump control module which controls the pump speed and delivery volume and in return, fuel level is sent back which is utilised by the ECM for driver inducement, regen inhibit etc. and also passed to the gateway for onward transmission to the IPK.
Most in-tank pumps of the OP's vehicle generation are just straight 12V or PWM from the ECM, I think the reason LR and others call it a 'module' is that it is an assembly that drops into a hole in the fuel tank, complete with lid and external connections.
There are manufacturers that have pump control modules, notably Merc & Renault (and I think VWG) where the requested and actual pressure is broadcast over PT-CAN to the fuel pump control module which controls the pump speed and delivery volume and in return, fuel level is sent back which is utilised by the ECM for driver inducement, regen inhibit etc. and also passed to the gateway for onward transmission to the IPK.
Most in-tank pumps of the OP's vehicle generation are just straight 12V or PWM from the ECM, I think the reason LR and others call it a 'module' is that it is an assembly that drops into a hole in the fuel tank, complete with lid and external connections.
- Posts
- 12,129
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
Sounds overly complicated and I'm sure you agree a little above and beyond. Diesels are dead, strangled and manipulated to hell for their dirty crimes...
The amount of complex crap I'm seeing with questionable build quality is disgusting. We are taxed for pollution and the car manufacturers are the biggest culprit.....
I've got me scarf, gloves and I'm taking me coat on the way out
Mostly agree - the manufacturers are just finding ways to implement the EU emissions regs. and it's not just diesels that have fuel pump control units, every bit of the powertrain has to be micromanaged to achieve some notional level of emissions, you're probably aware of GPF's - the petrol version of DPF's? well, they're just as much of a pain in the @rse as DPF's. There are also SCR systems that have two AdBlue metering valves (and three NOx sensors!) All of which means that I'll be keeping my pre-EU6 LR going for some time...
- Posts
- 12,129
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
A-ha, my brothers mercs has had the nox sensor replaced with a Gen 3 and needs an update to use it... £400 and a mercs update..
My oldest car is my 38' and the newest is a 2005 Volvo/ford/ Peugeot 2.0hdi/tdci thing
The Merc way of doing it is strange- they need to update VeDoc first to allow the software and SCN coding to be updated to suit the NOx sensor, same goes for SCR lockout, the SCN needs to be reloaded to the ECM (it runs the supervisor function, the SCR is just a PT-CAN interface & pump / heater controller effectively).
The DW10 is a good platform, I've a lot of time for PSA diesels (until they get fsked about with to keep the EU happy!)
The DW10 is a good platform, I've a lot of time for PSA diesels (until they get fsked about with to keep the EU happy!)
- Posts
- 12,129
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
Sod mercs and their electric spankery!
The earlier dw10 yes but the most recent 2.0 2.2 psa units are weaker than ever from what I've experienced unfortunately..
It is interesting to an but not so interesting the cost to the public to put theses thing right..
The earlier dw10 yes but the most recent 2.0 2.2 psa units are weaker than ever from what I've experienced unfortunately..
It is interesting to an but not so interesting the cost to the public to put theses thing right..
Last edited:
Yep, the DW12 (2.2) is made of cheese, and not a particularly good one. I think the CGI blocks are the problem, they just are not rigid enough to stand the stress of 'wear' in the moving components - this has also been shown to be the case with the DT20 (AJ-V6 in Ford / JLR speak) where the 3.0 and to some extent the DT17 (2.7) blocks are scrap if the crank fails. The only chance you get with those is a rebuild before failure IMO.
- Posts
- 12,129
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
Unfortunately made for accountants and not for longegevity or whatever that bloody word is....
Errr to last
I'm sticking with my bus
No issues since and today the car nearly died a couple of times after initial start when pulling away from lights.
Scanned the car and only faults are
B103C-15
And another for digital radio.
That's it.
Got me home but very disconcerting issue that only happens when pulling away at low speed it seems. Power always comes back.
Maybe try inlet manifold clean next.
Scanned the car and only faults are
B103C-15
And another for digital radio.
That's it.
Got me home but very disconcerting issue that only happens when pulling away at low speed it seems. Power always comes back.
Maybe try inlet manifold clean next.
So managed to somehow jinx it and all the errors came back. Symptoms started with losing power Intermittently. The air compressor was kicking in while driving here and there too. Then ping. Lights all came on and stayed on. Scanned the car and got a load of communication errors. See below.
Bison had a post in 2019 where a height sensor calibration issue caused the same lights and a recalibration fixed it. Reached out to see if this was permanent but he has t bee active in a year or two.
Worth a Try. What's your thoughts dudes?
Bison had a post in 2019 where a height sensor calibration issue caused the same lights and a recalibration fixed it. Reached out to see if this was permanent but he has t bee active in a year or two.
Worth a Try. What's your thoughts dudes?
Attachments
The first thing you should deal with is the brake pedal switch, check the wiring, if OK, then replace the switch. All the other powertrain & chassis errors will 'cascade' from that one, 'Vehicle Dynamics' errors can only be from other systems as that module is a supervisory system with no actual components (other than the module itself) to monitor.
Unless the ride height is incorrect, I see no reason to go through the b@llache of a height calibration, it won't fix anything.
Unless the ride height is incorrect, I see no reason to go through the b@llache of a height calibration, it won't fix anything.
