Freelander 1 L Series no drive

The GF was driving my l-series when there was a loud bang from underneath and it makes a loud banging noise from the front when driven.

I checked the VCU and it is locked solid so I assumed the pinion on the output rear output of the IRD had stripped. So I have taken the front to rear drive shafts off.

Now I have no drive. If you put it in gear and look underneath you can see the IRD rear output spinning so it looks like I had rear wheel drive and no front drive.

So is this the diff in the IRD that has failed or is it the diff in the gearbox or something else

I imagine the splines that connect the IRD output to the passenger side front wheel have stripped. This would put all drive from the front diff through that 'wheel' which won't be connected.

GrumpyGel said:

I imagine the splines that connect the IRD output to the passenger side front wheel have stripped. This would put all drive from the front diff through that 'wheel' which won't be connected.

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This^^^^
The splines have probably failed due to overloading when the pinion locked. I'd be replacing the IRD, VCU and splined link in the box.

Thanks, was hoping not to have to do both gearbox and IRD. Better pull the IRD and gearbox off the thing then.

One thing I did notice when I was shifting it was there is drive to the front wheels sometimes. If I push it forward or backwards it will drive about 5 or 6 feet then I get a bang from the front and loose drive, push it a bit more and drive comes back, then bang, it goes

Could the box splines still be intact and it be teeth missing off the diff?

The splined link is known to fail but I suppose the IRD could be the culprit. You'll need to pull it to pieces to find out.

Will get it pulled apart before I look on flea bay bits then.

Andy_J said:

The GF was driving my l-series when there was a loud bang from underneath and it makes a loud banging noise from the front when driven.

I checked the VCU and it is locked solid so I assumed the pinion on the output rear output of the IRD had stripped. So I have taken the front to rear drive shafts off.

Now I have no drive. If you put it in gear and look underneath you can see the IRD rear output spinning so it looks like I had rear wheel drive and no front drive.

So is this the diff in the IRD that has failed or is it the diff in the gearbox or something else

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Hi Andy, to add to the sound advice above from GG and Nodge, - there is no 'diff' in the gearbox, just in the IRD. And yes, from your symptoms it would seem like there is a problem in the IRD Diff unit - either the splined shaft connecting the gearbox side front wheel to the ird diff planetary gear / or the drivers side (on a RHD like your) drive shaft to planetary gear splines.
The internal diff shims (the cup shims) for the planetary gears are also a known issue and can cause lack of meshing.
Check the drivers side drive shaft where it enters the ird casing. This has been known to crack badly in the event of wind up causing casing fracture.
Get the IRD unit out first, I would think the gearbox is probably fine.
If the casing is cracked at the drivers side front drive shaft to ird then the ird is not suitable as a core exchange.
The main gear on the differential housing to layshaft in the IRD is also known to strip teeth.
Certainly sounds like a terminal ird failure requiring a replacement ird and definitely a vcu.
Would be interesting to see piccies when you remove it. The main ird end casing can be removed quite easily with the ird out and the whole diff assembly and dual internal drive shafts removed for inspection by hand (no pullers required)
If you need a good s/h ird pm me as I can give you a reliable contact.
Joe

Yep, always know I will get good advice on the forum. Hopefully I can get the IRD removed at this weekend or next. I will get a few pictures of the damaged bits for you Joe

What are your tyre sizes, make, type and load rating all round?

Tyres are all the same make, size,etc. I check the pressures once a week as well. 100% sure the VCU has caused the problem as even with a 6ft scaffolding pole you can't turn the rear wheel to do the VCU test

Andy_J said:

Tyres are all the same make, size,etc. I check the pressures once a week as well. 100% sure the VCU has caused the problem as even with a 6ft scaffolding pole you can't turn the rear wheel to do the VCU test

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I'm not having a pop - because I've been there as well and got the T-shirt - and I wasn't hot on tyre pressures like you were.

But, it goes to show how a regular 1 Wheel Up Test will save a Freelander's transmission.

You may have done the rear diff in as well get it checked out before putting a new vcu or ird on and one good point the rear diff is the same on all freelander 1,s

Good shout on the wheel up test, just being a bit lazy as most of the time the freelanders are used off road

Doesn't seem to be any noises off the rear, but will probably use parts off my rolled Freelander once I have check out IRD and Gearbox. Hoping gearbox is fine as I don't have a spare one.

Started removing the IRD today. Removed the oil drain plug and no oil came out, but lots of metal filings on the plug. Hopefully get the whole IRD out Monday or Tuesday so I can split it and find out what has broken

Andy_J said:

Started removing the IRD today. Removed the oil drain plug and no oil came out, but lots of metal filings on the plug. Hopefully get the whole IRD out Monday or Tuesday so I can split it and find out what has broken

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Yikes, not something you really want to see eh ?
photos would be interesting when you strip it. The unit come apart really easily.
Check the oil in the gearbox for colour and particles as cross contamination can occur with the ird oil if the or

O rings are damaged on the concentric shaft (quite possible if lots of swarf) -

IRD out after a bit of a struggle with the coolant pipes.

Got a few photo's but not sure how to put them on the forum. can email the or if anyone can let me know how to post them

Should have spotted part of the problem before I removed the IRD, but it had so much oil and muck on it.

Driver side end of the box cracked so I now know where all the oil went.

Opened it up and about 10 teeth missing off the larger gear with shaft that runs all the way through the box. Teeth were lying in the bottom of the box

No damage to any of the splines on the shafts

Hi Andy, one of the worst ways to go. Problem was caused by the inner cv joint support bearing failure - usually due to the inner cv wearing and causing eccentric running and vibration. IRD is completely scrap and not effectively repairable - you wont even be able to exchange it for a recon' unit unfortunately. !
Check the inner drive shaft CV - probably needs a new shaft as well.
Drop me a message and I can give you a contact for a good s/h ird at sensible money.
You can add the images by using the file upload button (next to the post reply)
To contact me - use start conversation - from my avatar.

Joe

Ouch. With the IRD case fractured, its a (recycling) bin job!

A recon IRD with no exchange unit is even more costly. This may be one of those cases where you take a gamble on an IRD from a breakers.

Alternately, you have a parts car! Even then though, if you buy another car - you don't know its history - so frying pan and fire really.

GrumpyGel said:

Ouch. With the IRD case fractured, its a (recycling) bin job!

A recon IRD with no exchange unit is even more costly. This may be one of those cases where you take a gamble on an IRD from a breakers.

Alternately, you have a parts car! Even then though, if you buy another car - you don't know its history - so frying pan and fire really.

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Hi GG.
If you know what you are looking for, a good ird from a breakers can be a great choice. Providing you are prepared to remove the end casing, remove the concentric shafts and pinion housing you can thoroughly inspect the unit whilst under warranty - That is what I did with my 'JIC' unit (Just in case ) - it is in mint condition. - only takes about 30 mins to strip and reassemble. Andy already has those skills
Joe

Will the IRD from a 1.8 or a TD4 fit? I have both for parts. assume it is best to rob the drive shaft from either the 1.8 or td4 as well if the cv could have caused the crack.
Now to try some pictures