Loud bang, grinding noise , no drive. Gearbox , transfer box or driveshaft ?

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Nodge68 said:
Ignore the troll.

No the gearbox stays in place. You just need to remove the RH drive shaft, and IRD support bracket, and the lower tie bar. Then the IRD can be removed from the gearbox and eased down to the ground.
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Thanks Nodge, I'm having a hell of a time trying to find somebody here to fit it. At this rate I'll be trying to do it myself...
By "lower tie bar" do you mean the lower wishbone with two bolts ? I'm fairly clueless , but I've read up on removing the driveshaft
 
badlander said:
Thanks Nodge, I'm having a hell of a time trying to find somebody here to fit it. At this rate I'll be trying to do it myself...
By "lower tie bar" do you mean the lower wishbone with two bolts ? I'm fairly clueless , but I've read up on removing the driveshaft
Click to expand...
No, the lower tie bar stops the bottom of the engine swinging about. If you get under the car you'll see what he means.
With the right tools and know how its a couple of hours work. As a novice you could do it on a Saturday.

Any mechanic could do it for you. If they say they can't you don't want them near any car.
 
Alibro said:
No, the lower tie bar stops the bottom of the engine swinging about. If you get under the car you'll see what he means.
With the right tools and know how its a couple of hours work. As a novice you could do it on a Saturday.

Any mechanic could do it for you. If they say they can't you don't want them near any car.
Click to expand...
Looks like I'll be giving it a go, thanks
 
In case it helps:


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badlander said:
Looks like I'll be giving it a go, thanks
Click to expand...
BEFORE installing a new IRD while you have the best access ensure the oil fill bolt is loosened as you will need to top up the oil. These appear to be made from soft cheese and love to chew up so only use a hex socket to loosen it.
It will make your life easier if you drop the subframe as some of the bolts are difficult to reach but it's not necessary.
Have a search for videos of Freelander clutch changes as many of the tasks are the same.
 
Alibro said:
BEFORE installing a new IRD while you have the best access ensure the oil fill bolt is loosened as you will need to top up the oil. These appear to be made from soft cheese and love to chew up so only use a hex socket to loosen it.
It will make your life easier if you drop the subframe as some of the bolts are difficult to reach but it's not necessary.
Have a search for videos of Freelander clutch changes as many of the tasks are the same.
Click to expand...
Is this the oil fill plug on the gearbox or is there one on the IRD ?
 
The more space you have under the car the better as there are lots of bolts to remove and in awkward places.

On some engines you also have to remove a part of the exhaust (eg K Series), you don't on the L Series - dunno about the TD4.

You also need to remove the cooler pipes from the IRD.

You don't need to fully remove the RH drive shaft. Simply unbolting the 2 bolts holding the hub to strut and angling the hub away from the car gives enough room to pop the drive shaft out of the IRD and it can be moved out of the way. You don't have to remove the painful hub nut then.

You will need a socket set (hopefully 6 sided sockets) with plenty of extension pieces - I've had to have extension pieces stacked together to get the ratchet out the wheel arch to undo some bolts.

Having said you need plenty of height under the car, be careful lowering the IRD - its heavy and needs rotating and moving to get out. An inspection pit is ideal as you can get under the car and have loads of space while the IRD is at its normal height and only a short drop of the IRD. I lowered it on a trolley jack.

I'm no ninga mechanic. After years of being ripped off by useless mechanics, when I got the Freelander I vowed to do all the maintenance myself. Sods law was that the first major thing to happen was the IRD imploding. It was a daunting prospect having to remove it. I took it slowly but got it done. Having done it, reinstalling was less daunting, but turning the key and pulling away afterwards I shat myself that it would all go bang cos of mistakes I'd made. But its been 10 years and no bangs :D

1701707764488.png
 
GrumpyGel said:
The more space you have under the car the better as there are lots of bolts to remove and in awkward places.

On some engines you also have to remove a part of the exhaust (eg K Series), you don't on the L Series - dunno about the TD4.

You also need to remove the cooler pipes from the IRD.

You don't need to fully remove the RH drive shaft. Simply unbolting the 2 bolts holding the hub to strut and angling the hub away from the car gives enough room to pop the drive shaft out of the IRD and it can be moved out of the way. You don't have to remove the painful hub nut then.

You will need a socket set (hopefully 6 sided sockets) with plenty of extension pieces - I've had to have extension pieces stacked together to get the ratchet out the wheel arch to undo some bolts.

Having said you need plenty of height under the car, be careful lowering the IRD - its heavy and needs rotating and moving to get out. An inspection pit is ideal as you can get under the car and have loads of space while the IRD is at its normal height and only a short drop of the IRD. I lowered it on a trolley jack.

I'm no ninga mechanic. After years of being ripped off by useless mechanics, when I got the Freelander I vowed to do all the maintenance myself. Sods law was that the first major thing to happen was the IRD imploding. It was a daunting prospect having to remove it. I took it slowly but got it done. Having done it, reinstalling was less daunting, but turning the key and pulling away afterwards I shat myself that it would all go bang cos of mistakes I'd made. But its been 10 years and no bangs :D

View attachment 304176
Click to expand...
Thanks GrumpyGel, I'm summoning up the courage to give it a go. While I'm no mechanic, as a travelling type I've had to do my fair share of roadside repairs, I've kept this damned Freelander going for 7 years so far and done 3x 7000km drives in it. We'll see if I manage this... Thanks everyone for all the help , I may be back ...
 
Not sure if you can see Youtube where you are but here is one video of a guy changing the clutch. You should get some idea for removing different parts from it.


I'm not sure why he took the drive shafts out of the hubs nor why he removed the wishbones from the hubs as doing so is not necessary. Maybe it just makes things easier for him but without an impact gun don't bother.
 
Hi folks, I just thought I'd remove the RH driveshaft to see what's going on there, I removed the two bolts that hold the hub to the suspension, lowered the hub and pulled on the ird end of the gearbox to my surprise the cv joint (I think that's what it's called ) pulled straight out of the cup which stayed attached to the ird. Is this what's supposed to happen ? I thought the driveshaft was all one piece with the cup ? I started the engine, put it in gear and the cup turns (though it seems a bit wobbly) has the driveshaft snapped or am I barking up the wrong tree ?
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