Just done all 4 shocks and rear airbags...

Clarky130 · Mar 19, 2012

...and I somehow MUST have done it wrong, as it only took me 1 1/2 hours from start to finish! No nuts or bolts refused to undo, no axles shifted, no bits fell off... Even the airbag pins popped straight out, and had no trouble getting the air lines back in! I didnt even need to post a panicked 'HELP!' thread for it!

Good job I have a very big crowbar, mind, as popping the tops of the bags out of the chassis would have been a bit tricky otherwise...

jamesblake · Mar 19, 2012

Good job!!

Clarky130 · Mar 19, 2012

Is it normal to have to recalibrate EAS heights after changing your shocks?

I've just noticed a significant height difference between left & right at the font, and a smaller (but still noticeable) height difference between L&R at the rear. RAVE seems to imply, but not explicitly state, that doing anything to shock mounts may require EAS recal....???

StuckAgainSteve · Mar 19, 2012

Clarky130 said:
Is it normal to have to recalibrate EAS heights after changing your shocks?

I've just noticed a significant height difference between left & right at the font, and a smaller (but still noticeable) height difference between L&R at the rear. RAVE seems to imply, but not explicitly state, that doing anything to shock mounts may require EAS recal....???

Perhaps you over extended a wheel with the shock off and put a height sensor out of kilter?

Clarky130 · Mar 19, 2012

StuckAgainSteve said:
Perhaps you over extended a wheel with the shock off and put a height sensor out of kilter?

Shouldn't have done - having learned my lesson with the radius arm bushes, I had both body and axles secure on 4 stands between them at roughly 'high' EAS height before undoing anything!!

Datatek · Mar 20, 2012

If you followed my guide and you had a door or the tailgate open, the EAS would be unaware you have done anything. Re-calibration should not be necessary unless a height sensor has over travelled.

Clarky130 · Mar 20, 2012

Datatek said:
If you followed my guide and you had a door or the tailgate open, the EAS would be unaware you have done anything. Re-calibration should not be necessary unless a height sensor has over travelled.

Yes, tailgate and driver's door open throughout.

Datatek · Mar 20, 2012

Clarky130 said:
Yes, tailgate and driver's door open throughout.

So it's probable that a height sensor has travelled further than normal and picked up some crud at the end of the track or an arm has bent a little. You may need to re -calibrate or it may clear after a few up down cycles.

Clarky130 · Mar 20, 2012

Just looking at the RR... It seems to make no sense having the same ride height settings front and rear, using the wheel arch to measure... The rear arches are naturally 'lower' than the fronts (relative to the body) since the front wheels need more clearance to steer... as with most cars. Seems like setting the same arch-to-hub, or arch-to-ground distance on the rears as the fronts would have the arse up in the air somewhat... Or am I missing something here?

JerryXt · Mar 20, 2012

Clarky, can I just say that I am probably not alone in being in awe at your willingness to tackle proper jobs on your RR? Also, really good to see other members offering help and advice.

I don't have the time, the space or (TBH) the inclination to tackle anything like this, but it's always good to follow someones experience and learn what to do so that I don't look blank when my mech John is working on T2

kaisermax · Mar 20, 2012

Don't know if there is such a thing as p38 owner of the year but clarky you get my vote, good luck to you!!!!!!! there was a time when i could have a go at those sort of jobs but unfortunately can't now so nice to follow someone who can. and as already stated great to see all the help and advice offered on here great forum.

Topboy · Mar 20, 2012

JerryXt said:
Clarky, can I just say that I am probably not alone in being in awe at your willingness to tackle proper jobs on your RR? Also, really good to see other members offering help and advice.

I don't have the time, the space or (TBH) the inclination to tackle anything like this, but it's always good to follow someones experience and learn what to do so that I don't look blank when my mech John is working on T2

Well said Jerry!

I am keen to learn and always try and get involved when my mechanic is doing work on mine. I'm probably a pain in the ar5e to him, but hey, I pay him and buy him beer so we're all good!

Datatek · Mar 20, 2012

Clarky130 said:
Just looking at the RR... It seems to make no sense having the same ride height settings front and rear, using the wheel arch to measure... The rear arches are naturally 'lower' than the fronts (relative to the body) since the front wheels need more clearance to steer... as with most cars. Seems like setting the same arch-to-hub, or arch-to-ground distance on the rears as the fronts would have the arse up in the air somewhat... Or am I missing something here?

You're thinking too much, just use the measurements given like everyone else

Clarky130 · Mar 20, 2012

Made myself a handy tool to help...

The dowel has a round-head screw in it which fits exactly in the dimple on the end of the hub - all the measurements are taken from that point.

jerrytlr · Mar 20, 2012

Excellent

And that tyre looks, erm, serious (and noisy!)

sas1810 · Mar 21, 2012

Clarky130 said:
Made myself a handy tool to help...

The dowel has a round-head screw in it which fits exactly in the dimple on the end of the hub - all the measurements are taken from that point.

:wtf: COOL! now tell us all the scales so we can all make 1 :5bcheers2::bump:

Clarky130 · Mar 21, 2012

I based it on Datatek's specs given in another thread. Measuring hub centre to arch:

High - 510mm
Std - 470mm
Low profile - 450mm
Access - 410 mm

Datatek · Mar 21, 2012

Clarky130 said:
I based it on Datatek's specs given in another thread. Measuring hub centre to arch:

High - 510mm
Std - 470mm
Low profile - 450mm
Access - 410 mm

And I got them from Irishrover. Your stick is a bit more hitech than mine, I just have the lines and the stick is long enough to rest on the ground so I can leave it propped agains the side of the car

Just done all 4 shocks and rear airbags...

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