Disco 2 Gutless in low rev band

Ok, I know the TD5 is well documented as being gutless in the low rev band.

My 53 plate D2 certainly fits-the-bill.

Now, A couple of questions:

Although my D2 is great on take off, she struggles once you get in to the low rev band, i.e anything pretty much below 2 - 2.2k revs, once it's in the low-mid range zone, i.e 2.2-2.5k revs and upwards, the engine sounds a bit harsh, but she starts to pull like a train, it's like I'm raking the t*ts out of it. Is this normal? She's an old girl and I don't want to really thrash her (ohh err missus)



Remapping. I think my solution to this may be a remap. Is there a generic remap or are they customized to each vehicles problems? All I really want is power in the lower rev band. Other than than I'm happy the way she pulls above 2-2.5k.

Just a few threads already in the Forum on remapping/ tuning Td5 if you search. Here's a link to start u off https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tuning-options.119631/#post-1212520

Have you checked for any fault codes ?
Have you looked at the injector loom for oil ingress ? Pull the red plug off the ecu and see if it's showing signs of oil contamination ...

Dippypud said:

Have you checked for any fault codes ?
Have you looked at the injector loom for oil ingress ? Pull the red plug off the ecu and see if it's showing signs of oil contamination ...

Click to expand...

Hey, Dippy,
I haven't checked for fault codes yet, but I have checked for oil contamination on the red ECU plug - all clean.

Kernowkid66 said:

Hey, Dippy,
I haven't checked for fault codes yet, but I have checked for oil contamination on the red ECU plug - all clean.

Click to expand...

OK, is it the same when warm ?
Is it an auto ?
Check the airflow meter and check the fuel pressure ...
A dud airflow meter sometimes reads low and reduces fuelling and it can be pretty lethargic. Fuel pressure is usually noticeable when under load ...
Quick and dirty test for a dud AFM is to disconnect it, the ECU defaults to fuelling which doesn't give you full power but not too far off it, if it more or less fixes the problem you then know to change the AFM!

+1 ... if no joy with that i'd say as a first step to check the pipes to the wastegate modulator and if they are ok replace the modulator... and make sure the rod is not sticking... the remap will give more power but won't fix a fault, they are just a bit lazy on standard map but not as you described

Dippypud said:

OK, is it the same when warm ?
Is it an auto ?
Check the airflow meter and check the fuel pressure ...
A dud airflow meter sometimes reads low and reduces fuelling and it can be pretty lethargic. Fuel pressure is usually noticeable when under load ...
Quick and dirty test for a dud AFM is to disconnect it, the ECU defaults to fuelling which doesn't give you full power but not too far off it, if it more or less fixes the problem you then know to change the AFM!

Click to expand...

She runs better when warm, that's for sure. I have been looking in the direction of the MAF. I will be fitting a replacement next week. She sure runs a bit better (although a it more rough) with the MAF disconnected.

sierrafery said:

+1 ... if no joy with that i'd say as a first step to check the pipes to the wastegate modulator and if they are ok replace the modulator... and make sure the rod is not sticking... the remap will give more power but won't fix a fault, they are just a bit lazy on standard map but not as you described

Click to expand...

Remember not to use WD40 when making sure the rods not sticking, it'll crud up due to the heat ...
As an aside I didn't think the waste gate moved on its own below 3200 rpm ... but then I do get it wrong now and then ...
but if it's stuck open it'll give the symptoms you say ...

Dippypud said:

Remember not to use WD40 when making sure the rods not sticking, it'll crud up due to the heat ...
As an aside I didn't think the waste gate moved on its own below 3200 rpm ... but then I do get it wrong now and then ...

Click to expand...

it can move if the wastegate modulator is shot and doesnt restrict pressure especially at middle revs, and on direct feed the wastegate starts acting at 2500 also at lower revs the boost lost through a faulty modulator can be noticeable... it's like a leak in the intercooler... it's something to be ruled out anyway

a tester session would be relevant though to see if the sensors are working well or not... btw, EGR is still on?

It's been de-EGR'd.

Well, I was just about to ask a few questions on this very subject. Don't wish to hijack the thread, but this does seem a good place to dip in.
I have discovered that the waste gate valve on my turbo is seized solid, jamming the gate permanently open. At least I assume it's seized, as I cannot get the rod to move. Am I right in thinking that the rod should move back and forth if I suck/blow on the vacuum tube attached?
Cheers

no, it should only go forward if you blow in it but have to be close to 1 bar to move it ... grab the rod with a mole grips and push it toward the turbo with decent force then let it come back by itself, dont push toward the valve eventually just gently if it's stuck opened

see this

ah, thanks, hadn't realised it is so tight. Mine is much harder to move than the video example. I'll have to take a more focused look at it tomorrow. I was replacing a broken water pump today and was sidetracked by the turbo.
Are replacement modulators available?

if you want a wastegate modulator google out PMK100130 and get genuine, if you want a wastegate actuator my advice is to bite the bullet and get one of these http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/Ad...Defender_or_Discovery_TD5--product--1033.html , i've just fitted one recently and i can tell that IMO it worths it's weight in gold

Brilliant! Cheers Sierrafery. Yep, I'm talking about the 'actuator'. I might just order one of those; seems just what I need. Any danger of over boosting with this?

it's no danger of overboosting the engine cos the ECM will cut it out, you'll have to adjust it yourself with drive tests untill below that limit, if you have tester it's easyer to watch the MAP reading to not exceed 235 but you can fit it, tighten it well, first try to rev it up to 4000rpm stationary and if you can go to an agressive ride preferable uphill untill the ECM goes to overboost protection then loosen it one thread a time untill it doesnt overboost, if it doesnt go to overboost protection no matter how hard you push it tighten the rod one thread a time untill it cuts out then one back...then it's set well

if you'l see that it cuts out too early at 2500rpm you can loosen it more that 1 thread at the beginning...the gist is that the rod to be set as to give you the max boost accepted by the ECM if you see what i mean

dont be stressed with that, nothing bad can happen, if the rod is too tight the ECM goes to overboost protection and reduces fueling, if it's not tight enough the boost is lower than needed that's all, you only have to find it's best setup in real life experience...and erase the logged overboost fault codes when you get near a tester