Groaning Freelander

good evening. New member with my first post/cry for help.

I have just purchased a project freelander 1, td4, 120k miles on the clock. Purchased from a local dealer who had taken it in as a px. Usual problem of rear propshaft being removed. Took it for a quick spin and there is a "worn wheel bearing sort of humming noise" coming from the car. But the noise is very hard to pin point. Volume of noise varies as you drive from hardly noticeable at the start to constant after about 5 mins.

It passed its last mot in July with one advisory of slight play in the front near side wheel bearing so that will be replaced first.

If a new wheel bearing does not sort the problem, and I will probably do all four as a precaution but what else is it likely to be? Remember there is no rear prop so no propshaft support bearings to check.

If the rear diff or ird were on their way out what sort of noise could I expect? There is no banging or clonking when driving and gearbox operates smoothly. If I jack up the rear of the car and spin the wheels by hand would any fault in the rear diff show or are these things only noticed at speed.

Any help much appreciated.
Thanks
Mark

Well, I suppose the most you could have to change are the wheel bearings, IRD, diff, drive shafts (CVs), brakes and gearbox.

You say this is a project, is your intention to create a reliable 2WD or 4WD?

Make sure you get the right wheel bearing as the later ones had a magnet on the out side to send signals to the sensor for the abs

Grumpy gel- a reliable 4wd....eventually!

Teddywood1 - thanks for that

Groaning Hippo said:

Grumpy gel- a reliable 4wd....eventually!

Teddywood1 - thanks for that

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You should have a read of this current thread . It's an overall discussion on what you need to do, but also address some of the specific questions you've raised in this thread.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/full-lock-lurches.307968/

wheel bearings , are you sure, the reason i say this is a few years ago i was having the same problem, but couldn't decide which side or even if it was the front or rear, i even bought 2 wheel bearings,
anyways i happened to be on ebay and found some brand new wheels and tires at a great price which i bought and fitted, , oh what a difference it was like a new car, no noise at all,
i think my old tires with about 4mm left on them had become square, i since learned you are suppose to swap the rears over every service, something about the way the drive train works

just a thought

Grumpy gel- thank you I will have a read.

John t - I never gave the tyres a thought. All are right on the legal minimum. I will do the bearing that I know needs changing and then sort some tyres and give her a test run. Thanks again.

When you source rubber - all 4 tyres must be exactly the same make, model and pressure on Freelander due to the transmission. So (in general here) best to replace all 4 at the same time, if you do just replace 2, same rules apply, but the newer ones go on the rears.

When you say no rear prop do you mean the rear propshaft from the VCU to the rear diff or the whole propshaft VCU and all?
If it is the first then take the rest of it off as it will probably be causing vibrations.

OP does say "no propshaft support bearings to check" - so presume he means the whole prop & VCU has been removed - or else I think you found his problem

Which one is the propshaft support bearing, is that the one between the VCU and the diff?

Dartmoor Navigator said:

Which one is the propshaft support bearing, is that the one between the VCU and the diff?

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There is one each side of the VCU, two in total

I did have a grumble, rather than a groan in my Freelander. It was still there after I took the VCU off. Checking rear diff, oil level was about 50% with seepage around the pinion.

Topped up oil, no different. Stripped diff, carrier bearings were badly worn.

Fixed that, with 100% of oil, grumble has gone.

Mine is beginning to make a hum from the back. Looking like it's time to swap the tyres from side to side again.

there is no vcu, no two part propshaft and no propshaft support bearings under the rear of the car.

Will have to pull the diff cover and refill oil as part of general overall procedure.

Just ordered service kit, egr blanking kit and wheel bearing. That's not to mention the lazy electric window motors, srs light on because of damaged wiring under drivers seat, rear brakes...etc.

Has any body else bought a Land Rover they felt sorry for as it sat neglected at the back of a small car dealership with a sign in its window saying work needed make me an offer.

Thank you for everybody's comments and advice. Much appreciated.

If you are going to 4X4 again, then change the diff oil.
If you are looking to use it as a 2WD, then remove the rear diff and drive shafts. You have to leave the outer CV joints , as these retain the hubs. You can just remove the shaft from the CV joint itself. Doing this will reduce some weight and you could probably sell the diff on for a few quid

Groaning Hippo said:

Has any body else bought a Land Rover they felt sorry for as it sat neglected at the back of a small car dealership with a sign in its window saying work needed make me an offer.

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Hell yeah!
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/dave-smiths-freelander.273079/page-5#post-3661609
Mine came with shrubbery!

Groaning Hippo said:

there is no vcu, no two part propshaft and no propshaft support bearings under the rear of the car.

Will have to pull the diff cover and refill oil as part of general overall procedure.

Just ordered service kit, egr blanking kit and wheel bearing. That's not to mention the lazy electric window motors, srs light on because of damaged wiring under drivers seat, rear brakes...etc.

Has any body else bought a Land Rover they felt sorry for as it sat neglected at the back of a small car dealership with a sign in its window saying work needed make me an offer.

Thank you for everybody's comments and advice. Much appreciated.

Click to expand...

Me too.
Lazy windows will be the regulator (wires and stuff) rusting up and getting ready to break. Check ebay for the thousands that are for sale.
Shouldn't be hard to repair the wiring but make sure you have the battery disconnected before you start. Don't want the airbag going off in yer ear.