gR@HaM's gearbox thread

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when you come to remove the cross member( pic above)...undo the bolts (3 or 4 on each side) Then to remove it use a bottle nose jack or 2 if you have them to jack the chassis rails apart to remove it,,,,it wont budge otherwise mate
 
Thanks for the heads up :)

potentially daft question, should I be looking to just replace the autobox with torque convertor or do I also need to do the bellhousing n' tranny box??
 
Does anyone know whether any auto from a '95 disco will be the same as what I currently have? I know mine has EDC not sure whether that (or indeed anything else) complicates things??
thanks :)
 
Hi Graham,
According to the Microcat parts catalogue there are 2 different boxes as below;

without EDC part No is FTC2756(E)
with EDC part No is FTC4552(E) (E Denotes exchange)

Price difference is showing as approx £160 more for the EDC box.

I'm sorry but can't tell you what the difference is between them though but hope this helps.
Regards
Darren
 
Thanks, at least its attainable as a 1 man job!
Its been too wet the last 2 evenings for me to work on the landy although I fitted a wood stove last night on me tod which weighs 80Kg so a good bit of training :D :D
 
Update, has been a while as was away on my holidays. Spent the weekend dodging the rain and getting very muddy clambering under the disco in the process.

Marked up and removed rear prop:
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Disconnected the rear of the front prop and moved it out the way. The prop shafts compress to allow removal.


Marked up the torque convertor against the flywheel through starter motor aperture:
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Removed washer reservoir to allow access for breaker bar:
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and removed 3 out of the 4 bolts which hold the torque convertor to drive plate:
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Make sure you use 1/2" hex shaped socket as these were ruddy tight on mine and one has rounded off which is going to be a mare to remove at later date. Also they are easy to drop into the casing on removal, as I learnt after now having one stuck somewhere behind the flywheel!

Removed handbrake cable which is held in by a metal slide clip:
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and pulled cable through under the vehicle:
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Disconnected 2 wires from top of the box, blue wire was o/side black n/side:
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Disconnected lead in engine bay which connects to sensor in top of bellhousing:
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Removed bracked which holds oil cooler pipes and moved them out the way:
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Supported gearbox and engine with individual jacks:
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Removed gearbox support brackets, 4 bolts on either side:
*
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and then the crossmber:
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Made a start on the bellhousing bolts, bottom first. Bolts are 1/2 inch - same size as the ones removed from torque convertor, again these were ruddy tight so used hex sockets:
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One of the bolts on o/side holds dipstick bracket:
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Then I lowered the box by dropping both jacks in order to get access to the top bellhousing bolts, tilted the engine us far as I could without crushing the ancilliaries behind the head:
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Probably not advisable but I did this without use of a hoist, the box is bloomin' heavy to drop on yer own which wasn't made easy by working on gravel:
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Tadaa!!
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I found the easiest way to move the unit once on the floor was stick it on some carpet and drag it around.*

and at least I now know exactly which model# to go for with it being EDC:
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That's it so far, next step to somehow get the TC off to get access to sort the rear crank seal, then buy a hoist and replacement box.. oh and wait for my back to recover!!
 
Well done Graham, you're doing really well.

Just a couple of quick notes for your considoration:

1. This is a good opportunity to check the condition of the Torque Converter flex plate for cracks/damage and wear;

2. On the Ashcrofts site they state that the biggest single reason why their recon boxes fail is due to a bad instalation particularly relating to the oil pump.

The very best of luck to you, I'll be watching you progress eagerly.

Dave

Ps I may have to do this on my TD5 at some stage in the future:eek::eek: as I think the flex plate is no longer perfect:eek::eek:
 
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