Gearbox oil

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My local motor factor stock Carlube MTF94 at £8.63 a litre all in. Unipart tried to fob me off with 75w80 saying it was an equivalent, they were talking out their ****. I believe it MTF94 is a pretty thin oil, nothing like 75w80.
 
My local motor factor stock Carlube MTF94 at £8.63 a litre all in. Unipart tried to fob me off with 75w80 saying it was an equivalent, they were talking out their ****. I believe it MTF94 is a pretty thin oil, nothing like 75w80.

:behindsofa:

Nothing wrong with Carlube, have used it for years without problems. Use the MTF -you will need 2 litres and should have a bit left when you are done. It's not as though you are going to change it every 12000 miles !:eek:
Remember that ideally you should take the car for a short run first to warm the oil up before draining-this way any ****e will flush out easier. The drain & filler plugs need an allen key to remove them. Make sure that you remove/loosen the filler plug first before removing the drain plug. Filling is a bit awkward due to reduced access but is do-able with the litre bottles that have the filler tube on the cap. I use an oil syringe with a flexible nylon tube about 12" long that I find handy for filling gearboxes & diffs. etc.
:)
 
My local motor factor stock Carlube MTF94 at £8.63 a litre all in. Unipart tried to fob me off with 75w80 saying it was an equivalent, they were talking out their ****. I believe it MTF94 is a pretty thin oil, nothing like 75w80.

You are rite. MTF94 is a similar viscosity to 10/40 engine oil. 10/40 used to be recommended for topping the PG1 box only but that doesn't appear to be the case now. There is an additive in MTF 94 that protects the plastic used in some bearings. The bearings can fail quite quickly if the correct oil used.
 
You are rite. MTF94 is a similar viscosity to 10/40 engine oil. 10/40 used to be recommended for topping the PG1 box only but that doesn't appear to be the case now. There is an additive in MTF 94 that protects the plastic used in some bearings. The bearings can fail quite quickly if the correct oil used.

I was quite shocked that Unipart the 'rover' parts specialist fobbed me off with completely the wrong oil, I wonder how many garages have put 75w80 in when they have done clutches? I suspect a lot. Maybe that's why a lot of these boxes fail or feel very tight to shift.
Carlube oil is actually very good (apparently they manufacture oil for lots of the big brands). They also do an ATF-Q which is an equivalent of The N402 needed for freelander autos at a reasonable price, I have used it in my own and it has worked absolutely fine, slick shifting etc.
 
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