Front brake pads.

I have done a search and not come up with anything too useful so I am asking you good good people here.
Brake pads, mine are on their way out, one has gone I think, and I am going to put new ones on tomorrow, so how easy or hard are they to do?

I cant get the car booked in to get them done for a week and I am going to need them done well before that as living in Dartmoor without brake is just a little too dangerous!


So.............. how hard can it be right?

The most difficult bit if your calipers are old is pushing the pistone back into the caliper to get the new pads in. when you push one in the other comes back out. its a good idea to slacken the bleed nipple (or all 3 on front calipers) which will make it easier and also if your master cylinder is well topped up will stop brake fluid overflowing down your inner wing taking all the precious paint off in the process!
Get a fitting kit with the pads as the springs will be shot and probably so will the pins.
Get some copper grease and apply liberally on the back and sides (metal part) of each pad, this will stop any brake squeal and keep them moving freely in the caliper stopping them binding and wearing unevenly.
Make sure you do your bleed nipples back up and try not to get any brake fluid on the new pads and the discs.
Not a massive job if all goes well. You should be ok.
Hope this helps.

Brilliant, cheers!!

Think there was a guide in LRO t'other month...

Make sure you clean up the calipers well, Meths will not harm any part of the braking system. Scrape the corrosion off the disc edge, down the sides of the caliper (imagine where the pads need to move and touch the caliper) and the pistons themselves.

ALSO don't forget to pump the brakes to settle the pads before driving off, especially if you live on a hill!

10 minutes a side max after you have jacked up and have taken the wheel off. Don't worry if you can't find three bleed nipples as the later disco had only one.

Right, just finished the brakes, started them at 2 PM!


Not to self, check that the brake pads you get supplied with are the right ones before driving ALL the way back home and stripping the wheel and calipers down, and make sure you have enough brake fluid and meths to actually finish the bloody job!



I have a bit of a problem with the pistons not retracting at all, so I ended up losing all the damned brake fluid, and then had to try and bleed the whole brake system without a clue how to do it or a bleed kit! I think I have managed to bleed the system, the brakes are biting a little bit and there is enough of a resistance so I think they are OK..............


I can wholeheartedly recommend Land Rover Parts, Accessories and Spares From Brookwells they were brilliant, efficient and really well supplied with absolutely everything!!!

Bringing this old thread back to life.
What was promised as an easy job is now concerning me.
Got the wheel off, old pads removed easy enough.
Getting them pistons back in is proving difficult.
Do i need to open the slacken the bleed nipple? If so where is it. I've posted some pictures if this helps.

you shouldnt need to, pistons are about ****ed,personaly i would fit new ones (calipers )

I have used a specially made up pry bar for this job for years (it has no sharp edges) and generally find that if you (gently!) lever each piston a little in turn then you will get them all in without opening the bleed nipples.Once you get them moving they should go in without undue force.There are some nifty wind back tools available,the Sealey one is cheap and readily available.Make sure you get the one for pistons on both sides of the caliper,not the base model.G cramps work,if they are the right shape to fit.

Things look pretty rough in there,a good wire brushing will help,maybe try to clean the pistons a bit with some emery cloth and meths,they may have developed a ridge of rust that stops them retracting all the way,at the very least.You may need to scrape some of the rust scale away at the top and bottom of the aperture to let the new pad slide in.Disc looks in remarkably good shape !

Well been out there with the wire brush and still no joy.
Sorry if this is basic stuff but is the caliper fooked due to the rust built up on the piston wall?
Would there be any benefit to starting the engine up, press down on the brakes, would this push the pistons back out. Then I can give them a jolly good clean up and then try again?


Also how big a job is it to replace them?

Dont start up,just press the brake pedal a bit,not much at a time and keep looking.That will push them out,then you could give it the emery treatment but try not to scratch the finish,if theres any left under the rust.But,it sounds like they are buggered.Dont know if you can buy repair kits anymore....have a look at Paddocks website.Not hard to do,but easy to do wrong.Brakes are pretty vital so if you are not sure....dont do it!Before you get too far in,see if the caliper bolts are in good enough shape to come off without any drama.
Over to you,James.....

Hi, I did mine for the first time on a Disco a few weeks ago and found that if you put the old pad back in and use a pry bar (gently) between the disc and the old pad then the pistons went back together all the way giving enough space to put your new ones in.

New calipers can be bought for about £35 a side...

I have struggled in the past with the very same problem.... my recommendation would be to replace the whole caliper and forget trying to refurbish the original ones, they look to me as though they are beyond repair... and honestly can you put a price on safety?

Swapping the calipers could not be easier, just clamp off the brake hose undo and replace, then make sure you bleed properly.

Hope this helps..Just adding my two pennies worth

SP

Last time I did mine I had to take the callipers off re hone the bores replace the pistons and seals new kit cost £15 from paddocks

***update***
Pressed down on brakes to get the pistons back out, hopefully exposing all of the rusty part.
Plan was to clean the piston sides and then try again.
Only one of the pistons came out! Perhaps forcing rusty pistons back into the caliper was not a bright idea :doh:

I had plans involving the Disco at the weekend so really need it sorting before then.

I have been offered some refurbished & painted calipers @ £35 each.

Or drive the Disco and my flexible friend to the local 4x4 specialist and see how much they want to sort it?
Can they be driven with no pads in the front (just over a mile to my local 4x4 specialist) will the back breaks still work?

WAAAAAAAAHHHHHTTT no for the love of god and all that is holy please do not drive it without brake pads or calipers to the front of the disco the rears will not give the brake force needed get it recovered :doh:

I'm sure i read that the front and back braking system on a S1 Disco was independent. Glad I asked.
The caliper is still on, I'm not brave enough to remove it.
I'll refit the old pads, not that they will work as 3 out of the 4 pistons are stuck in!

Yip they are independent, but the bias is to the front hence the bigger calipers and discs giving up to 70% of the braking force chances are you would pop a piston into the moving disc at speed no telling what that would do. Other than lose of brake fluid and something bad happening to you or worse someone else.

I've placed the old pads between the pistons and disc and after some heaving pressing on the brake peddle all four pistons are back out.
I think I'll just put it all back together and see what the garage quotes.

Nick, have you got a rave disc, if so have alook at page 612 0n wards section 70