Freelander TD4 HSE....with engine problems, help required!

Hi
I bought the Freelander a couple of years ago to fill a 3 month gap while waiting delivery on a company car. I experienced many problems with the Freelander during this short period, some of which I fixed myself. I grew fond of the car and still have it, although it has been parked up for a while now due to various problems which are beyond my expertise. I am hoping that someone can direct me to the best person or company to fix it.... without breaking the bank! There are local mechanics but i feel someone with freelander experience is the best option. The car is located at my work near Wimbledon.

Bad points:
It can be barely driven due to constant pinking / misfiring / jerking.
Always suffered from lack of power which i think is turbo related / not fully working
Smokes on start up
Smokes lots when given wellie which is embarrassing especially with the environment being a hot topic.
clutch pedal very low
Swimming pool in boot
Always hard to pull out the oil dip stick, as if its been sucked in.
Oil in air intake pipes and manifold

Works carried out:
new battery
new tyres
new brake pads and discs
new rear silencer
replacement VCU / 4 x 4 system seems ok
new air intake rubber pipes / no holes
PCV fitted
Injectors replaced. Old ones came out without damage. They were very black. Replacements from JGS. Not sure i did a very good job of it because pinking and jerking even worse now.
Remote fuel pump checked and ok

Can anyone help point me in the direction of best person to fix it, or am I barking mad!?

Many thanks

Andy

What colour is the smoke when you put your foot down?
Have you checked over the vacuum pipes for splits, cracks and other damage?

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Nodge68 said:

What colour is the smoke when you put your foot down?
Have you checked over the vacuum pipes for splits, cracks and other damage?

Click to expand...

Smoke is grey, all vacuum pipes ok

AMW LANDY said:

Smoke is grey, all vacuum pipes ok

Click to expand...

The vacuum pipes can pinhole and or crack under the cloth cover, so it's difficult to tell for definite if they're ok. I consider the vacuum pipes as consumables, and as such would replace them completely anyway.

You didn't mention the EGR valve or intake manifold being removed and cleaned, so this is a good place to start looking. Dark smoke means more fuel than the available oxygen to burn it, so the things to investigate is the intake system, which is notorious for clogging up with black goop from the EGR system.

Hi.
Make sure that all the filters are good (including crankcase filter) and that the oil has been changed. Have you checked the glow plugs?
Oil in the intake indicates that oil is sucked in by the turbo from the crankcase vapors and reintroduced into the intake. The intercooler will be full too. Remove intake, hoses and intercooler and clean. If is possible, clean the turbo. By the way, do you have a fault code?
The clutch pedal is low. I think that the master or slave pump or both are breakint. Be careful, at this point, it has very little life left.
There were rust problems in the injection rail pressure sensor connectors. the solution is to change the cable and sensor but first try this solution https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-high-pressure-sensor-lr009732-repair.338456/
It is convenient for you to disconnect mass air flow sensor and check how the car works ...
I think the first thing is a good diagnostic whith diagnostic device, see faults and live data of injection pressure, air mass, etc. we can do a lot of things but probably most of them must be done after a diagnostic
Luck.

Since you can do a bit of the work yourself, you can diagnose the turbo yourself:

• Lift the car a little bit, jack + stands or ramps / bump it onto some blocks etc...
• Just behind the oil filler cap is the airflow meter, from which a plastic pipe clips into it that then runs down the back to the engine and plugs into the inlet (centre) of the turbo, the pipe is held onto the airflow meter with wire hook / cam buckles, and simply plugs into the turbo inlet.
  • Unclip it, jiggle it out of the road, but you don't need to completely remove it.
• Now get under the car, feet sticking out under the front bumper, head roughly under the gearstick, looking up at the back of the engine, you'll see a path to get an arm into the turbo by putting your arm right up between the front subframe and the floor pan.
• Put your hand up there, and put your fingers into the hole the pipe went into and have a probe about. You should feel a hex nut / bolt head on the tip of the turbine blade, get a finger or two around it and try and wiggle it around, there shouldn't really be any movement. This area where you are poking your fingers into should be dry, as in almost completely free of oil, if there is a lot of float or a lot of oil in there, your turbo is shot.

You should also look at replacing your vacuum lines as they are ~15 years old and the rubber might split behind the cotton braiding. Get 4mm silicone vacuum hose from eBay, and just follow the lines from and replace them as necessary. A pair of wire snips or scissors will cut the new pipe to length, I generally say remove the old line, fit one end of the silicone hose coil at one end, uncoil it and run it in to trace the route of the old hose, then cut the end from the coil with snips once you are at the other end, fit it, and move onto the next one. There are three hoses on a solenoid vacuum valve beside the turbo that controls the turbo charger, and boost pressure, a holed vacum hose could render that system inoperable, and since you are going to be looking at the turbo I'd suggest you replace that three as a starting point. Have a look at this thread for more info:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-lack-of-power-at-70mph-fixed.77147/

One of those three hoses goes to an inline filter, the other end of which is open to atmosphere, this is by design, as it is the vacuum exhaust, as in it is the inlet to draw in air for to fill the void to disengage the vacuum at the actuator on the turbo, find this filter and replace it, its aa few quid and is something that tends to get overlooked on servicing.


Then, as others have said, look at the EGR.the EGR is the valve body thing that sits on the end of the inlet manifold on the left side of the vehicle, right hand side of the engine as you look at it with your knees at the numberplate, it connects to a sort elbow hose that in turn goes to the aforementioned plastic ducting. Since you've done the injectors before, you'll know how to remove the inlet manifold, remove it again but this time also remove the Manifold Absolite Pressure (MAP) sensor from the underside of the manifold. Remove the EGR, and clean out the inlet manifold. I find pouring strong, neat, detergent, like say traffic film remover, into the various apertures pressure-washing it at a coin-operated carwash facility, on a dark night, and sticking the lance into each aperture of the manifold and blowing out tonnes of bubbles is very effective at removing the gunge from the manifold. As a courtesy I always put some more detergent onto the ground and clean the area after myeslf so I'm not leaving the car wash bay an oily mess. There are numerous threads about EGR cleaning etc, but being honest with you, I'd recommend just blanking it off using a cheap ebay M47 / TD4 EGR kit.

Another favourite point for a smoky freelander is a holed hose, in particular the one from the intercooler to the intake ducting. Look just behind the drivers side headlight, there are two hoses connect to the plastic ducting, one goes to the inner wing beside the washer bottle, the other goes to the front of the vehicle inboard of the headlight, follow that hose around towards the engine, and just before it joins the plastic ducting it is most likely sagging and the underside of it is now rubbing on a screw/bolt head on the engine. Although you'd probably have noticed this when you did the injectors.