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Freelander 1 2.0 TD4 4x4 FUEL RAIL HIGH PRESSURE SENSOR LR009732 - repair

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by PopRivet, Nov 25, 2018.

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  1. PopRivet

    PopRivet Well-Known Member

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    Today, I removed the Fuel-rail pressure sensor, the one that has been problematic for a while.

    Having fabricated a replacement cable with a new plug, using an in-line 3-pin connector that enabled me to change cables/connecting-plugs with ease, both the original plug as well as the new replacement failed. That persuaded me to carry out some checks on the sensor itself.
    DSCF0694.JPG DSCF0704.JPG
    My plan was to tin the sensor’s three connectors with solder, but only after an in-depth inspection.

    I discovered the connectors were made of brass, which was both expected and hoped for.

    The brass, however, was heavily tarnished, where electrical continuity could easily have broken down – and probably did! It’s a common fallacy that copper & brass do not corrode. They do, but not like steel or iron. The copper in the brass alloy tarnishes as it attempts to return to its original ore, malachite. This is green in colour, by the way.

    I cleaned the connectors with carb-cleaner followed by a contact-cleaner spray. The socket and the connectors were immaculate. I saw the tarnishing after the cleaning, using a x10 hand-lens. I suppose I could have given them a bit of a rub down, using a nail-file/board borrowed from my wife. However, the fault would soon return, I’m sure.

    I tinned the connectors, using my trusty soldering-iron. The solder contained flux for a clean & tidy operation.

    If you try this yourself, you must first ensure the connectors are scrupulously clean. Preparation is all important.

    With the soldering done and the sensor refitted - with the plug reconnected, the engine started easily. A run proved all was well.

    I’ve actually bought a new replacement sensor, Part No: LR009732 and if it goes well with my tinning method it will be carried as a spare in my pack-up, along with the ½” drive socket, etc, for removing it.

    There is one thing more, and it’s puzzling. There was no seal fitted with the sensor. There should have been an appropriate seal (a copper crush-washer) and its absence makes me believe I’m not the first to remove this sensor. I fitted an appropriate washer from my stock of parts – see the photo, and tested the system for leaks and functionality. All is good.
    DSCF0723.JPG

    I will now be monitoring how the fuel system operates with my soldering repair. I’m expecting it to be as good as new. Fingers crossed.
     
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  2. Philgt50

    Philgt50 Active Member

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    I had a problem with the HPF sensor; I kept having to disconnect it and clean it until I smeared some silicon grease to seal the plug after cleaning it. Been fine ever since and that was 2 years ago. I guess it was condensation forming basically.
     
  3. radevo

    radevo Member

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    i keep having the same prob please tell me where on earth did you get the new plugs,cant find them any where
     
  4. Philgt50

    Philgt50 Active Member

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    The high pressure fuel rail plug is on the end of the rail, underneath the inlet manifold and tricky to reach. But as I have written before, mine was getting condensation or something in it so I disconnected the plug, dried and cleaned it out and also cleaned the other end. Then I used a light smear of silicone grease around the body of the plug to seal it and it totally eliminated the problem. The silicone grease did lose its efficacy over a few months so I bought some special stuff on Fleabay and it has been fine for the last 2 years.
     
  5. radevo

    radevo Member

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    thanks for your fast reply,many times i have taken plug out of sensor cleaned connectors on both parts and sprayed contact cleaner,works well but not for long
     
  6. Philgt50

    Philgt50 Active Member

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    Funnily enough I am going to have to reseal that connection on mine as it’s just started grumbling again. I bought some apparently ‘special’ electrical sealant from a place on EBay which is especially for preventing and also expelling moisture from electrical connections such as this. I will find the name tomorrow and pass it on to you. It was £3 for a small tube but it keeps that problem at bay; I cannot remember the last time I had to reseal it. I know a lot of people have to go to great lengths to replace wiring etc and maybe I have just been lucky. For once. But it has definitely worked for me for 2 years.
     
  7. Philgt50

    Philgt50 Active Member

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    Ok, just cleaned, dried and reseated my High Pressure Fuel Sensor connections same as before. Started to get that pausing, chugging feeling so knew it was coming. Disconnected sensor plug carefully then cleaned and dried using mirrors to see and everything. When satisfied I squeezed some Silicone Dielectric Compound around the male plug then securely clicked it home. Hopefully it will do what it has done previously; apparently it it the opposite to hydroscopic and not only seals but actually dispels moisture.
    I also had a couple of niggling fuel return fittings on 2 of the injectors so I replaced the rubber ‘O’ rings then sealed each injector connector with Dielectric Compound as I had only a tiny bit left.
    Anyway; took round block and seems to be rocking and rolling (in a really good way) so hopefully that’s that for a while. Needless to say whilst there I have discovered something missing. Driver side, front of wheel arch; looks like a rectangular panel once lived very happily there. Well something happened cos the mofo gone now! Anyone had this, or know what I need? Apart from a goddam different car ha
     
  8. Philgt50

    Philgt50 Active Member

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    0080C3DC-0AAD-4869-BE3C-AC7784ADC589.jpeg This is how small the silicone dialectic compound came but it has lasted me years. Was about £3 on EBay. All I can say is it worked for me and I have read about a lot of folk rebuilding the high pressure fuel rail with the same sounding problem to the TD4 and at the end of the day the results are no better than what I have done. Sometimes one can get too involved maybe. I just polished the wheels ffs!!!!!! Help
     
  9. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    The rectangular 'hole' in the arch liner is for access to the light - you change the indicator bulb through it. From factory that have covers that slot into it, but presumably yours has fallen out or got mislaid over the years. Will be plenty in breakers yards.

    Not sure if its for access to anything else.
     
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  10. Philgt50

    Philgt50 Active Member

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    I thought that was the indicator. When I did the obvious and rammed my hand right in I thought I could feel the air intake. If so, is this the air intake route and where does it collect air from outside the engine because I don’t think it is supposed to be through the hole in the wheel arch ha
     
  11. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    Maybe on the TD4 there's an air intake there, but on the Rover engines the air intake (for engine) is from the passenger side. Off top of my head, I can't think of anything else around the drivers side other than the washer bottle. (assuming RHD!)
     
  12. Philgt50

    Philgt50 Active Member

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    Yeah, RHD indeed. I have found replacement for £15. I wonder how long that has been missing? I have not done the indicator bulb. Glad I found it and as ever on the Hippo part was on EBay.
    I noticed it while I was- get this- polishing the wheels!!!! I tried to scrub them clean with a brush and soapy water but where I had got a bit keen with the grease and Hammerite not so easy so for the first time I remember I polished the wheels. Finding a missing bit of car haha. Wheels nice and shiny anyway.
    If it can just behave for a couple of weeks then maybe I can get my bike fixed....
     
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